Snowboarder12345

Oh yeah, I got a short video of the sound.

So yesterday was the first time since I've begun modifying my pathfinder that I have taken it out onto the highway. Over speeds of ~60kmph I get a grinding noise when decelerating, either by just backing off the accelerator or by depressing the clutch pedal. When just backing off the gas the noise happens for a few seconds and the goes away again, but when I press the clutch pedal the noise is louder and does not go away. In both cases the noise is worse when going downhill as opposed to just being on the flats. I think my clutch throwout bearing is on it's way out, so I'm wondering if this could also cause my high speed noises. However all the reading I've done leads me to believe that this isn't the case. The U joints on the driveshaft are brand new, so they shouldn't be the issue. The one other thing that comes to my mind though is that my differential and transmission angles may be out of alignment enough to be causing this, but I'm not sure what symptoms would be present if that were the case. Anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing this?

Got an alignment done today, amazing how that'll clear up like half the rattles and creaks a vehicle makes. Also slapped some paint on the rear end and made a little bit of a dent in the front bumper. In crappier news, another new sound has developed now that the rear U joints have been changed. I'm thinking throwout bearing or maybe transfer case and differential angle conflict but those are just guesses. Symptoms are brief grinding/chafing noises at highway speeds while decelerating by just letting off the gas, and constant loud grinding/chafing noises while depressing the clutch that do not go away. It sounds similar to a brake pad rubbing, just worse.

Main cats. Mine were melted up and starting to clog so they had to go.

FINALLY got her on the highway for the first time today since I've started the transformation. I got up to roughly 100km/hr with no real problems per say, but acceleration is noticably slower. My commute into town has a good mix of hills and flats. On the flats maintaining speed and accelerating wasn't a problem but I certainly was bleeding speed off going up the hills in 5th gear. It's definitely driveable on the highway though, and really not as bad as I was expecting tbh. I've also gone out and played in the snow a couple of times. In 2' of snow I was having ussues starting from a stop in 4high, but in 4low I had no troubles. If I dove in while in 4high and kept the revs up she did fine though. So all in all I'm happy with how shes's doing. Yes I'd benefit from some power mods but I'd put 35s on again for sure. Hope this helps someone.

I chipped out my cats years ago and have never noticed a difference in how mine ran.

Hey man, mudflap, tint and lightbar laws are what let people like me sleep soundly at night Thanks Mjo! Yeah I'll almost certainly repaint the whole vehicle. I'm thinking either camo or black at this point. Right now I've got "close enough red" on anywhere that had exposed sheet metal until It's warm enough to start using body filler.

Pretty much just waiting on a couple seals and a cap for the hinge. Other than that it's just little stuff left for the rear bumper. What's left to do: -Find a spot for the plate -Trim the mudflaps -Finish prettying it up with the grinder -weld on the spring loaded pin that will keep the gate open I'll also paint it all at some point, temperature permitting. The front end is also stripped down now, and I've made the mounts for a winch bumper. Nothing worth taking pics of yet though.

I was getting about 13l/100 km before I lifted. No idea yet about post lift because I haven't driven it much. Smiles per gallon are what matters anyways!

Depends how far gone it is. Surface rust can be sanded off and then repainted, with maybe a little body filler if needed. Cancer needs to be cut out though, and preferably you'd butt weld in new sheetmetal and then do all the bodywork. Or try and patch the hole with fiberglass. There really is no easy solution with deep rust. I've spent at least 50 hours on just sheet metal repairs on mine already, with plenty more still to do and I haven't even broken out the body filler yet. Or dealt with the surface rust on the underside...

Couple steps closer to having somewhere to stick the spare tire and a winch. Not the greatest front ends for mounting beefy bumpers though I must say...

BFH

I'd start by changing the oil and looking for shavings if I were you. If the oil comes out clean then it probably isn't anything in the engine. It might be something in your tranny too if it's RPM but not speed dependant.

That's bad! Certainly fixable if you have a welder and the patience to strip everything but that's pretty far gone.

So as I've been in camp for the last 2.5 weeks and all the rec stuff has been locked down due to a really sh*tty (no pun intended) virus taking up residence within it, and I would have done it anyways by next winter for when I could actually do the work, I have created as thorough of a parts list as I possibly can for my ideal turbo build. I'm looking for 300hp ish at the crank and ideally I would like to be running 8-10lbs of boost. I'd like to be seeing peak boost levels lower down in the rpm range (1500-1750rpm), seeing as it'd be more useful for a 4x4. I've been doing a ton of reading for a few months now on the subject, and have been into every forum and topic I can find on the subject. I've also done all the turbo math and checked maps and all that jazz. I'm just hoping to tap into a little more knowledge than I have as I have never actually turboed an NA gas vehicle, I just have a little knowledge that comes from owning and having plans for an old diesel truck lol. I'm hoping someone who knows more about this stuff can maybe go through this and give me their take on it, both in terms of the build parameters itself and the quality of all of the parts I have listed. I have obviously tried to keep costs to a minimum without making major sacrifices with quality (no eBay turbo kits here!). I think the biggest concern I have right now is whether or not would be possible to be making that much boost by that rpm range, without making a bunch of boost at idle. Electric boost control perhaps? Link to the spreadsheet below. I have links to every part in the spreadsheet, and I have tried to keep it to as few online vendors as possible to make it easier and potentially help with shipping costs. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1YpxRRjOuYG0KD2uVjUqJ26oGBbsABDxKpKL9xTV7Lz0/pubhtml Yes, I have also looked at doing a 3.4L, or a VG33E+R. I have a bunch of links and stuff saved, maybe I'll compile all of that stuff into their own spreadsheets next rotation if the camp is in lockdown mode again and I'm bored.

You should be fine then I'm guessing, your mileage may drop a little but I wouldn't expect that you'll have power issues, unlike me lol

33's wouldn't look bad at all imo, you probably wouldn't even have to trim the fenders. Does your rig have the 3.5 or the 3.3?

Just have to actually get your hands on an SFD, easier said than done these days it seems. Unless you get your guy some plans and have him fab one up for you.

They didn't, that's an inline 4...

One of the coming steps for me is undercoating everything. I think I'm going to have to just use rust primer though, it'd be too much work to wire wheel everything one mine. Just a taste of what I'm eventually going to try to un-f*ck haha. At least I've made a solid dent in all the structural rust I think. Yours looks really good though, definitely take pride in that

I always get so jealous when I see surface rust free undersides...

Yeah in the original build he says he used an ebay turbo, was just curious if that scared someone enough to change it lol. Ebay units are very hit or miss from what I've heard. Like many before me have said, I'm thinking eventually I want to do some sort of turbo build or maybe a VG33E+R if I can get my hands on a cheap donor, just looking to see what people are actually running specifically for parts in these builds. Any idea how many miles were put on that turbo set up before it blew?

Just out of curiosity, are you still running the Ebay turbo, or was it replaced with something brand name at some point?

Never be afraid to get rid of stock bumpers

A real transmission jack is soooo worth it, especially when you start talking trucks trannys and have to deal with a transfer case as well.