Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST

Bunchie

Members
  • Posts

    236
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Bunchie

  1. OneSpiritBrain, Michael, thanx very much for reaching out and sharing. We're all full of one form of selfdestructive behaviour or another, aren't we?? But that's Lucifer's job to deflect you from the correct path through life and he and his crew are REAL good at their jobs!! I could imagine how your parents sad exit would have messed you up to the degree it did. You are blessed to have found faith. He WILL answer your requests for help but you need to be looking for the answers you seek. I've done almost everything at least once save for s#it in needles and the fact that I had belief and faith most definitely saved me from a very different life plan and I thank him for that!! I don't preach but I know his protection is REAL-I am still here bc physics were defied on one foolish youth fueled weekend. About 12 years ago I started looking at life a little differently-a dear friend lost his wife at 44 and was left w/2 children, 5 & 8. After we lost Eunice(blood clot in her bronccia-dead within an hour of 1st critical symptoms) I realized just how short aand precious life can really be and decided to live each day better and be positive more I've experienced alcoholism in my family but not to the degree and 1st hand like you. It most definitely can destroy lives if left unchecked. I strive to accomplish at least one positive, tangable thing everyday bc if you project positive, you will receive positive. I'll leave it at that as midnight is almost here. Good night sir.
  2. RainGoat, thank you for your support. Yeah dude, honestly I think I'm doing OK, generally but currently, for me, it's all the clutter and neglect, the house still remains in, 10 years after Dad passed. Im living here now and it makes me nuts. I believe myself to be pretty organized person ( bosses think so and now have me streamlining the day to day at work) and am fine so long as I have a plan. Talking to people lately has been helpful. This whole thing is on me (formally separated in Feb and an only child). so I'm taking any helping hand that's offered-not THAT stupid or proud-lol. I inherited Mom's deaf dog who is inconstinent (and CONSTANTLY underfoot) but have recently gained my b'dingo back from the ex. Shyloh is pretty and has no apparent brain. She's really my quantum of Solis. She's a 3-1/2 yo Carolina dog (North American dingo) who acts like a puppy, thinks she's tough and is afraid of shadows-keeps me laughing. Most days I'm not abusing herb or alcohol but I am smoking like a chimney which really Pisces me off cuz I was ready to quit before s#it went sideways. Was going to say, if able, gently talk to your parents and remind them that their collective accumulations may pose extra issues for you in the future. My old man kept all kinds of stuff and never used a lot of it and paperwork, Lord Jesus, give me strength, the papers me and my daughter went through AND shredded was staggering! Example: 1981 Reine Canada tax guide...I was at a loss for words and THATS not me. Took over a week but that being said, we DID find some real neat stuff. That's my bedroom now brand new, top to bottom. One day and one step atta time. Success on the alternator installation at 4:27 PM of Day 2. I will post my findings and exasperations very soon. Thanx for letting me ramble. Cheers, V.
  3. Hey Raingoat, Sept/Oct has NOT been good for me-Mom got very sick suddenly and passed away shortly after, the dryer failed, the dishwasher failed, kitchen sink tap set has been leaking for years(unbeknownst to me) underneath and rotted out the bottom 6 inches of cabinetry while I'm trying to arrange her funeral and get her estate in order and the nightmare that is probate. I'm the only child....sigh. Needless to say I've been drinking and smoking a lot. Didn't go to work for a month then yesterday morning, the alternator finally packed it. Had bought a new one, thinking that it should be fairly straightforward and I could change the PS pump and AC pump while I was at it and had it all apart...BWAAHAHAHA! WTF was I thinking?? "He's a looney, I tell ya, a looney! The bugger's off his nut!!" Changing the alt on an R50 is a horror show! Some braintrust at Nissan decided that a "floating nut" that has ZERO access to it was the best way to fasten the main alternator mounting bolt-every time my back spams, I'd like to kick that guy in the junk! I'm on Day 2 w/this nightmare! BTW, ALL the YouTube videos related to this go to great lengths to describe what to do to make this an easier job then promptly, fast forward to video showing everything already reinstalled...JC, are you kidding me??? Only by reading other people's comments, did I find out about this floating nut issue and any sort of solutions to it. I left a few comments myself...in frustration! Well I can feel my hands again so I better get back tater. Thank Christmas it's not raining yet...tomorrow they say. Will update w/what I was able to use as a solution, fix or fire-lol. Cheers, Victor. PS: Decided to clean out garage to do any more work on the PF.
  4. Re & Re of an alternator on an R50 is a utter beotch... I'm on Day 2 w/this problem. After trying to mount it using the wrong hole (min 3 hrs wasted there), it's the "floating nut" that has me losing my s#it!! What was Nissan thinking when they came up w/THAT solution??? Stupidest thing, I think, I've ever seen. Dude on YouTube ended up JB welding it to the alternator-I tried a similar technique but bc I did not use enough adhesive, it ended up falling off when I tried to thread the bolt into it. My back is on fire and I'm cold!! Will update if I succeed or I burn my truck to the ground in frustration. Seriously considering buying a Dodge turbo Cummins diesel....seriously!!!
  5. It sounds like it's time for Scott to go to Princess Auto and buy himself a digital vernier caliper. A very handy and inexpensive device...just sayin. So Scott, where abouts in BC are you? I'm in South Langley. Cheers, V.
  6. Raingoat: Yeah I bit the bullet and bought a new key from a local locksmith, $100.77 taxes Inc(not too bad). I had an original key that he was able to clone. The new stealer ship supplied key I got for Marvin, he was unable to clone...just so you know. I guess it's just the Scottish coming out in me that has declined interest in dropping $150 on a new fob but I should probably just suck it up and buy one-lol. FYI: Removing the door lock cylinder is a bit of a beotch. I had to remove the "stiffener bracket" and a few linkage retaining clips(be careful w/these), wiring quick disconnect & it's associated tie strap retainers. The atypical problem of "big North American hands in a little Japanese hole"-lol. Lord only knows how hard putting it all back together will be... Cheers, V.
  7. Raingoat: yeah I didn't think that it would be different in it's action-as it's a nice feature. AlabamaDan: I did use a "dry lube" made by Liquid Wrench(I believe it uses PTFE)when I 1st got the thing but even then it seemed like it had seen better days. And I still had a working remote(THAT seems to have vanished, unfortunately)at that time so I didn't give it much further thought.
  8. Raincoat, that was NOT the answer I was hoping for-lol. I DID get another door lock from another source(Passenger side) so I could see if it was possible to "repair" the lock assy. It's raining today so no brake swapping as originally planned so I'll take that lock apart to see if repair is an option. Will advise....V.
  9. So my single drivers door key lock only "unlocks". I cannot lock the door(s) w/ the key(key will not turn counterclockwise) nor can I "unlock" the rest of the doors/lift gate by turning the key a 2nd time to the unlock position unlike my former '01. Is this normal for an '02 lock system or is my door key lock just broken? And I still don't understand why a 2nd "unlock" action with the key does not unlock the rest of the locks. And no I don't have a working key fob any more-I seem to have lost it. Your thoughts...Cheers, V.
  10. He guys, went a different route w/the AC compressor. Bough a used one and a PS pump($140 CAN) from a guy who was partin out one from an aborted engine swap job he was doing for someone. Gotta do the brakes tomorrow-all 4 corners, just to be sure if the weather decides to cooperate....AC compressor and PS pump installation will follow. Will advise...V.
  11. Banned for not being positive...ally'all.
  12. All your time and efforts are truly appreciated as this is my "Go to" forum for all things Pathy!!!! And "Surprise, surprise, surprise", Victor remembered his password-lol...my tablet was stolen, amoungst other things by the junkie son of the owner of the house I'm housesitting.....sigh. Thank again and now I shall go to Fluerys Website to order me some parts, woo woo!!! Cheers, Victor.
  13. Got it that way from PO. Just got around to changing them now. Vehicle did NOT have an a/c belt when purchased. Checked the idler pulley and it is tight & smooth running. ★★If you can service an Altima a/c pump bearing why couldn't you w/the Pathfinder?★★ The clutch bearing is really the ONLY moving part at that end of the compressor. An electromagnet holds the pump drive shaft when you turn ur AC on. The actual pump drive does not spin when NOT engaged. The bearing would be the most likely failure point-its ALWAYS spinning. And the idler pulley looks newer than anything else down there. "It seems we have a mystery on our hands"....
  14. Hey peeps, figured out why there was no A/C belt on Goldy-clutch bearing is shot. The Q is: did Nissan change the a/c pump at all from 2001 to 2004? I ask bc I would like to be able to pre purchase the bearing so as to not stop "mid job" to go buy a $10 part. IF no changes were made, does anyone happen to know the bearing number???? And yes I searched this topic, found fiftytwelve items which gave me absolutely no further insight on the subject. Input pls. Cheers, V.
  15. Arrrgh, some days I HATE technology! I was going to say it would be prudent to listen to Tdawg50's experience as it is 1st hand. I only read only the availability at Ace (some) I ended up finding a reputable locksmith here in BC, that could provide that service. Cheers, V.
  16. OK, so the following will thoroughly discribe this "Job from Hell" and what I learned from it: PART 1: The Removal. 9 AM; truck up on jack stands-get that front up as high as possible!! There is no real room to get conventional tools to the required nuts and bolts of this beeotch. Ratchet wrenches are a profound help-both solid and flex head versions. Remove batt leads at batt. Now this is imperative:the heat shield mounted to the exhaust/cat MUST be removed: PB these 3 stupid little bolts 1st-top one snapped right off, sigh. Moving on: there is a 1/2 inch flex covered wire that comes from above/forward of the starter. It has 4 mounting points(10 mm head size bolts)and eventually winds its way down and around the back of the oil pan and over to the drivers side bell housing to a "device"(a magnet), under an little metal protection shroud, which pulls any metal filings out of the flywheel gear teeth(why it needs 3 freakin wires attached to it, God & the Japanese only know). At the center back side of the block, just above the edge of the oil pan, there is a STUPID mounting point for the wire that is, a hole, in the block, a plastic zap strap gets pushed into-just pry it out (and it WILL break) as it seems to be "service NON removable". I understand its point for being but the execution of it is truly dumb-should be easy to tap the hole and mount a proper attachment point to keep the wire from flapping in the wind. Wire, although flexible will eventually break if wiggled enough times. The one nice thing about this wire & device, is that there is MAGNET at the end and you can place it anywhere on the frame/body to get it out of your way. BTW, it was easier to remove the magnet device's bolt & assy, than try to get the snap clip terminal apart. Twist/turn it as you pull it out-it's mounting is a rubber hole. Up and forward of he starter, I gently wedged the other end of the cable between a protrusion of the block casting and the motor mount, just below the wire's mounting flange, for now-you need ALL the room you can get when trying to remove the actual starter. The 2, 17 mm H/S bolts holding the starter on are easily accessible from the trans side of the bell housing, w/extensions and a universal and if you have removed that magnet wire, you have already removed one of the bolts. All we have left now is 2 nuts and a snap clip...easy, right? NOPE!! Well the clip is fairly straight forward but the "starter to solonoid" cable nut is in the way of the "battery to solonoid" cable nut. The nuts are either 12mm or 13 mm-the AC Delco replacement nuts were 12mm but I like the 13mm flange nuts the original came with-thread size being the same. With the starer mounting bolts out, it's possible to turn the starter counterclockwise a bit to more readily expose these nuts. One is bare (starter to solonoid) & the other has a rubber cap. Try to slide this cap back up the cable a bit and turn the "nut" end of it, inside out for better access. A STUBBY 1/4" drive ratchet really helps here. This nut is a beeotch to put back on and tighten later as getting the starter back in req's ALL available space you have. There is thin metal spacer/shim thing between the bell housing & the starter itself. This "shim" thing has partial flange that faces up and towards the rad- it bends very easily, be careful! At this point you should be able to slide the starter out and slightly up (the solonoid is pointing towards the right tire at this point). A LOT of wiggling, giggling and turning of the starter is req'd to the starter drive gear past the bell housing edge and to a position to allow the removal of the starter down and out of the only hole you have available to you. See, that was easy, right!? At THIS point, I suggest you have a smoke, a beer, a shot, some food, a nap, etc to bring your stress level down. PART 2: Installation. Just do everything outlined above in reverse. MIDNIGHT: truck starts and is on ground again, all tool/lights, etc away, hands not completely black anymore and I'm driving my "$100" friend home. Best guess: 20 total man hours(2 of us worked on it together for 7 hrs & friend for 7 by him self. Now the Q before you is: Do YOU have a "$100" friend & a day to spare?? Or $500+ & some one else do it? I tried to be detailed as possible here for y'all. And I did use my phones camera to take pix of things my eyeballs couldn't see- that helped. It IS doable providing you have the tools and PATIENTS!! The Chilton's manual has 5 sentences on this subject....watta buncha dicks! FTW and Victor's signing off. Cheers.
  17. SOMEWHERE, here I found something regarding Warn hubs on an '02-Search came up w/"Your a loser". My parts guys w/40 yrs sez his Warn catalog only shows availability to '01-looked at it myself, confirmed). I understand that the "auto" mode is a NO GO w/these apps.. Will '01 hubs work on my '02, so long as I stay away from "Auto" mode???? A simple mechanical Q: Did that area change so as to NOT allow installation of sed upgrades? ANYONE......? Thanx, V.
  18. ADDICT. OK, now I've said it. Stupid thing sed I couldn't EDIT...I'LL show that forum computer program. FTW!
  19. S#it man its got 2 bolts and 2 nuts...how hard could it be, BWAHAHAHAHA! I WILL provide every assist possible, im a tool junky...Hello my name is Victor and I am an And Dude I'm 57! At this point, any laying down is done with the prerequisite of IMPENDING COMFORT! Workin when laying down is WRONG, cuz that's NAP TIME. One of life's TRUE pleasures! Saturday is the day. Will try to replace all the swaybar links while we're at it. Funny what you hear when the stereo dont sound (THAT'S fixed now too). WILL update...V
  20. Hey mjo, thanx for the reply. Yeah I kinda thought that was a pretty ambitious re & re time too. Got a buddy who is willing to do it for a $100. NO BRAINER right? He's smaller than I am so I'm hoping that that will work to his advantage. I will make sure he has as many universals, extensions, etc as I own (which is a lot). Also bought a set of metric swivel sockets today as well. Wish us luck-lol and I'll update the results. Cheers, V.
  21. I searched but could not find any threads on replacing the starter on an R50. Found a "brief" thread w/pics on Nissanhelp forum & he claimed 45 mins and $150 for the Autozone starter (which apparently crapped out 1-1/2 yrs later). His claim DID NOT instill the confidence I was hoping for, sez the born sceptic-lol. I spent $660CAN at the stealership bc Marvin's failed in sub zero weather a little over a year ago. I definitely can't afford THAT nonsense again, right now. 2 bolts, one nut & a snaplock elect terminal...and incredibly strong baby arms/hands to gain access to the fasteners in question. As always, JUST LOOKING FOR SOME CLARITY...Thoughts??? Cheers, Victor.
  22. Hey Pat you might be on to something there-it popped a code I haven't checked it out yet. Bigger problem today is the dead starter motor on way home from work today....sigh. Left me stranded. TRUX, and other four letter words.
  23. As in: I'M TOO PRETTY FOR...

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...