Bunchie

FORD: Flip Over Read Directions Had one for 11 years, it failed me once(65 F100, BB). Had others(5: 73 Mustang, 75 Maverick, 81 Zephyr, 81 LTD, 84 Crown Vic Wagon) When the last one's engine's electrical failed, I sed, "F it" and bought Marvin. That was 13 y/ago. Haven't looked back....although I REALLY miss my 72 510 & 72 240Z...shoulda NEVER sold THEM...sad face. I digress....

$3?!?!? Seriously? On a 4WD thats a pretty important part to be worth only $3....? Ive seen them let go-it can be spectacular! Lol Where are they made?, he asks knowingly.. BTW, do them both. You got the ds out already. Work smart, not hard. V

Its called Sil-Glyde(Dad had it for years. Made in CANADA, discribed as: a non-petroleum lubricating compound, using synthetic and natural oils. NOT dielectric. Designed originally for brake systems. Will dry out and crack eventually. ) & it's about the consistency of med/thick grease. I cleaned the old lube off the rail the glide runs on w/brake clean and the reapplied the Sil-Glyde, sparingly, to the inside and outside of the rail, the cable & its nylon cable slides at each end and even put some in the slots on the cable spool. Free ran it up/down n got the spot I missed the first time. TO DO: 10mm socket. Cut a U shaped flap, the width of the small grey structual plate, in vap barrier & roll up, secure w/tape. Remove plate(4 screws), drop wind down til glas bolts show. CAREFULLY hold glas & removed the 2 screws that actually hold the glass and then lift it up a bit & tip it towards the front end, slowly pulling it away from the vehicle. Set safely aside. 2: get ur #2 Philips & an old, soapy and wet, terry rag, fold, x 2, over screwdriver and from the top, slowly draw the cleaning tool down the glide slots. Careful, they're foam rubber. Did about 5 passes min, all way round, top to bottom. Presoaked entire felts w/windex-anything will work. Once you see the crap ur cleaning out, you'll understand whats been slowing it down. NOW, once that's all clean and dry, I use spray silicone in the entire seal. Matter of fact, I use it anywhere foam/rubber touches metal-fantastic in the wintertime! Remember the glass you set aside? Clean it, especially the edges-notice the vertical scratches? Yeah so did I-lol. Reassemble, use 1000 mile hr tape to seal it back up, ENJOY!!

Good news everyone, Goldy is back on the ground and running-exhaust stud fixed and all buttoned up. Oil n filter changed. New to me, drivers window mechanism cleaned, lubed, installed & working wonderfully-forgot how fast they were supposed to be, ha. Got 2 more dr panels to re, clean & re. Figured out that the drvrs seat issue will be a relatively easy fix-thank you dude on YouTube video-little nylon gear. I should be able to cannibalize the one from spare pass seat assy. Either that or pay $40 for a new 1 from Amazon-yikes!! NOTE: seat motors not working? 2 possibilities: coins jammed in track; ie: 1 side only works-this can also destroy that little nylon gear OR motor needs to be hit(tapped)w/hammer-Nissan Percussive Maintenance Program, Lovin it!! Apparently the motors can get "stuck/locked" in 1 place & quite often a tap or 2 will get them moving again. Probably just a dirty spot on the armature. Think I'll attempt that gear replacement tonight, if no plans have been made by the Social Secretary. Made a new vapor barrier, as PO(Wienney McHackerson)felt it unnecessary to replace it after he butchered the fact. stereo wiring...oh yeah gotta solder 2 wires in there too, then the door panel can be put back on. PO said Climate Control wasn't working...haven't really investigated but I DO know the AC pump belt is NONEXISTENT-got some new belts already-just another "roundtoit".... Got a lot done in last 2-3 days so must push on while im still motivated, wish me luck, V.

Hey kids, I've got an ARB Sahara bull bar on my '01. Got it used(CL-$700), about 6-7 y/a w/no instructions and I did NOT have to relocate ANYTHING. I DID remove the lower plastic inner fenders as one was toasted(from a trifecta of low speed rearenders I'm not too proud of) & I haven't bothered to trim them and reinstall. It bolted right up, no probs whatsoever-did it by myself too. BTW, tristin1035, thx for the pdf of the instruction sheet.

Welcome, I've been using synthetic in mine, since I bought it back in '04. It is my theory that bc of that, I now have 208 K miles on it and it still pulls strong. This place has a wealth of information and if ur not careful it has the ability to make HOURS disappear-lol. BTW, I've got a gold '02, I named Goldy, so I got dibs on that name-haha. Happy truckin', cheers, V.

My '01 & '02 PF's were built there too.

Remember those bearings sit in grease and it does wear out and its pretty easy to check for damage-no damage, cleanum real good and hand repack w/quality wheel bearing grease...it IS labour intensive but Ive got over 335K on my originals and that speak volumes on maintaining a part w/the right product. Just sayin, work smart, not hard.

I only hope he was able to realize some of his dreams. Life can be so fleeting and too many "good" people are taken from us prematurely. Theres no explaining it. Condolences to all affected by his passing, V.

Welcome. This is a bad place...you can lose many hours here if you're not careful-lol. Apparently I'm not very careful...sigh.

I use a product called "Beyond Black" by Surf City for the tires(&anything else rubber)and Simonize Ultra Protectant on everything else black plastic. That being said, most of these products are silicone containing so they will only last a few months at best. On a slightly different note, I absolutely advocate the use of RainX. That $#it is AWESOME! It's like having a brand new windshield when it rains and makes scraping the frost off, effortless. Bin usin it for years.

Well, oh, welcome btw, depending on the extent of the exhaust system damage, you could simply go to a muffler shop and get them to replace the pipe/resonator section w/a piece of pipe right to the bumper-simple & cheap and then you will know what it sounds like w/just the muffler. That way you should have a few extra $$ for list of other things you're going to want to do. My 2cw.

Great pix! And you remind me of my son, a tall, good looking ginger! Didja wear yer sunscreen? -lol. And I also like the last pic, you rebel, thumbing yer nose at the law and parking in the "NO PARKING" zone-haha.

CO_pf, do you know if the starter was ever changed by a PO? Mine was OE and I got 14 years of service out of mine (swallowed hard, took it like a man and opted for the shop to do it-lol) before it started to show the signs yours is now. Used it for my work truck for min 6 yrs and must have started it a trillion times-haha, so it really didn't owe me anything at this point in its life. Sad thing is, what actually fails/wears out is the brushes and the commutator ends up, over time, getting carbon transfer and severely degrades the electrical contact point between the 2 parts. In my youth (just after they invented rocks and fire) I remember my dad rebuilding many a starter by getting new brushes at the stealership and using a "deburnishing tool" on the commutator itself to get it all shiny and new looking. It was such a simple job to do. That part of the job always took the least amount of time. Not even sure if those parts are even available at the dealers any more...sigh. we now live in a hermetically sealed parts world, where things are simply thrown away and cant be repaired by Joe Aveage. What a sad legacy we have left for our children...Sorry, I'm just rambling now. If the weather would figue out what it's going to do today, I plan to reassemble the now scrubbed clean interior parts back into Goldy, replace a broken cat stud and button up the exhaust and maybe do a oil change/spark plug replacement too. Again weather permitting-tomorrow is supposed to be nice they're telling us, so we see...

Some would call that a test drive-lol.

Ride looks good, BTW.

Stupid technology...um, empty yer truck...no, wait, I guess that would be counter productive, wouldn't it? Light=fast. Heavy=slow...it's how trucks work. Laughing at you a little. :-)

Hey y'all y'all, I went to the local RV accy plc and bought a plugnplay kit for $46CAN taxes in...painless. Hey rc, the brake pressing action also disengages the shift lockout and probably a few otherthings we haven't figured yet. Remember, the relay itself is a DPDT so it can do more than 1 action. if you already have a Flat 4 connector setup(grn & yel-turns & stop, brn-running lights & wht-ground) you will need 2 x 14 gauge for trailer brake trigger (in & usually blue) and B/U light-the center pin(color yer choice)and if you wish, a single 12 gauge for a trailer Aux power(Red). I just Googled "4 flat to 7 pin trailer wiring nissan", image, and there are lots of good pix/diagrams of the Wiring Standards for this query.

As I didn't actually know what "limb risers" were, I asked Lord Goggle and he showed me pictures of them-lol. I also saw a pic of some Smittybuilt brackets that I would imagine attach to the forward end of the fenders. Maybe that would be something fairly simple to fab. MJO, your diy front bumper could be added onto to give you a more forward point to mount them to...just sayin

Brother Man, that DOES suck! A lot of factors contribute to the aaah, how shall put this?.?.?.the uncontrolled, obtuse angle, detrimental, parking action you and your passengers recently found yourselves in. The road conditions, tires, weight within the vehicle and how it was distributed, etc. Also consider you as the driver, your overall driving expertice and how and what you did/didn't do to mitigate your deposit into the afore pictured ditch. Or as to quote my ever tactful(NOT) wifey, "wtf, is he an idiot? Who drives into a ditch?!?!?"(you can take that for what it's worth-lol) Also I did NOT immediately respond with, "Me! twice, no wait, 3 times to be precise" cuz after being 30+ years w/the same woman, it behoves me NOT to give her any ammunition as I already provide her towards the undisputable evidence that she married an idiot-HAHA!! Just to be clear, 2 of those 3 times, road conditions were leading cause. The other time, well, that was definitely me, just being fakin retaaaaaded! Oh and the time I spun it 180º into the opposite curb and did $1800 worth of suspension damage. Conditions; cold, wet, slick wide white crosswalk lines, ****** tires and a good deal of weight in the truck...oh yeah maybe speed factored into it too. We all F up, the thing is to LEARN from it!!! BTW, I personally don't think that ur gonna be able to buff that out. Ur truck was looking good before that sadness. You may want to start hunting for a $1000 or less donor truck and put all ur goodies into that. Even with the limited view of ur damage I can see, it very well may be a cheaper way to go... Just sayin... Good luck

So I guess the real question is: How much does Jimmy John's pay you to drive ur baby into the ground?

I'll give you my opinion: you have to ask yourself, how invested am I in a 15 yo, 300K truck? Is it my DD/Toy or both? Don't get me wrong, ive had a 510, a 240Z, Celica & an 81 Mercury Monarch-302HO, ALL stick cars & ALL fun!! But if ur gonna use it for its intended purpose(4wheelin) then stick w/the automatic. Overall I believe it's the better choice. Either fix the reverse prblm or drive a half hour to the Wack and get one at Pickapart. At least their prices are advertised and somewhat warrantied-lol. My 2CW...oh I guess it's my 5CW now as we no longer have pennies, haha.