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Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST

Bunchie

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Everything posted by Bunchie

  1. Hey Onespiritbrain, thanx for the prompt reply...MAF sensor, hey??? Who'da thunk? So just to be clear: the engine speed increases about 500 rpm for the 1.2 seconds it takes to shift from 2nd to 3rd, especially when cold. When warm, its somewhat better. All other shifts are pretty crisp for a 16 y/o tranny. Most of the parts on my buggy are the original equipment so I'm NOT surprised that things are starting to wear out-lol. Big thanx to Howie for the scoop on the Maxima MAF!! My money tree hasn't produced any foliage yet-haha. Cheeky buggers those dealerships...can't recall any of them going out of business in my neck of the woods and it's no wonder. Will clean MAF before replacing it...on Short Term Disabilty at present so $$ are kinda tight right now. Will advise on outcome of cleaning MAF. Thx again, V.
  2. One thing you have failed to take note of: They already have ur money!! They could care less about ur problem now. They sound like a lot of insurance companies; if they can pass the blame to anyone but themselves, they've WON. No one wants to take responsibility for ANYTHING these days. That being said, I, for one will NEVER buy ANY products made by these clowns, simply bc you had such a crappy experience w/them & their product. I'm sure ur not made of money, so I'm sorry this was such an expensive lesson for you!! I have learned from your painful experience...
  3. Ok so it's been doing this for a while now. Worse when it's still cold. Looked into some upgraded tranny offerings online but they are somewhat cost prohibitive-got a lot of other things requiring attention prior to THAT sort of cash outlay. Any suggestions as to what I can check prior to major repair options. It's got over 200, none abusive miles on it and there were no alarming things found in the bottom of the pan when I last changed the fluid and filter. Truck doesn't leak any fluids, etc. Bring forth the wisdom, good people of NPORA!! Thx
  4. Hey last pic reminds me that I STILL have install my hood deflector-bin sittin in its box for 3 years now-lol. And you got the rims I want, dammit! BTW, I drove my truck for a year before I realized I needed to run premium in it-what a profound difference it made!!! MPG AND performance. My Pathy was equipped the 3.5 ltr as it was a late model year upgrade to the line. Check ur owners manual-mine sez 90 octain or better. The $ amount at the pump will be offset by the improvements in performance and mpg. And did you use nylock nuts on your rack mounting system?-nothing like losing ur gear at the most inopportune time cuz the std nuts backed off. Overall, nice ride, duder!
  5. I would concur, the CV axel is the weakest part in that area. Cant hurt to jack it up and give it a spin to see if you can duplicate the sound(s) and check for any damage to the cv boot. Does it only sound under load? In 2 WD, 4 WD? When turning? I understand why the other kids have gone to "manual hubs"-less wear and tear on the front driveline. One of this year's, warmer month projects for me.
  6. I would take it to ur local Nissan dealer & ask them about it. A Recall is a recall. I had them check mine bc of a recall I became aware of-mine were fine, so it seemed and they just cleaned the area up and repainted it in those two spots. Another example of "Inherent Design Flaw". Back in the day, my Datsun 510, like 10's of thousands of others, had front fenders that rusted out along the top (hood) edge but back then there was no such thing as a "Recall", owners would just go out and buy 2 aftermarket fenders and hope they could get the old ones off w/o horrifying the adjacent, inner fender. You sir, have an option we didn't have back in the early 80's. Do ur recall research (so you don't look like a complete nob), then take it to them. Now, as a comsumer, you have the power of law and consumer protection behind you.
  7. SEAFOAM!!! Works great. OIL: 3000 M or 5000 K...and don't be afraid to go by color too. Darker it is, the more carbon its having to remove so change it when its dark, Otherwise Spend ur money on fuel-lol!
  8. Other than that 87 w/a bajillion miles on it, I think I rank a firm 2nd w/a 01 with 325K kms...still pulls hard but the tranny's getting soft. Any suggestions on tranny repairs, cuz like I'm cheap but fairly handy. Rebuild it or simply swap it w/a younger unit (less K)???? Any suggestions....any one.....any one?
  9. Oh and simply search Youtube for what ur looking to do...there is ALWAYS someone who has posted a video on what ur looking to do...COMPLETE WITH PICTURES-LOL
  10. Any decent industrial supply house should be able to get you what you need. ALL good bearings have a part number that, more often than not, are universally cross referenced. I used to work in an ISH and virtually all bearing are made by a select number of quality manufacturers, SKF, for instance. Google "Bearing Suppliers" in your area and as long as you have that bearing number(should be on the outside face of the bearing), someone in ur area should be able to come up w/a qualitly replacement. Remember, automakers outsource a lot of generic, off the shelf parts bc they are readily available and much cheaper than making them themselves...every once in a while we'd have someone that would ask for a bearing that WAS one of those freak, dealer manufactured parts, but it wasn't very often. BTW I'm surprised no one has mentioned to use a brass drift-no risk of damage to critical surfaces. You are Stateside and you have our version of a "Guy's Store" in Harbour Freight(we have Princess Auto here in Canada). Before you replace the hubs-did you wreck them somehow??? and if so, wtf...HOW??? I would have to believe that you may have cooked the bearing itself and unless you horrified the inside of the hub somehow, dude save urself $$$ and simply replace the bearings. Beware of these 5 sequential letters: China. They DON'T have the quality control/standards, like we do over here. Dad told me years ago: NEVER buy cheap product unless you don't care about using it more than once. Sage wisdom to be sure!!! This website has a STUPID amount of information and a lot of folks happy to help with Q's. Cheers from the PNW!!
  11. Dude, as someone who's been married for 30+ years, I would suggest you take your lovely bride out for a really, REALLY nice dinner...just sayin. BTW, outstanding low buck scoop!!!
  12. Hey 99se, good vid man. Kind of wondered what the benefits were to "manual" hubs...NOW I know and stupid easy to install!! You briefly mentioned your exhast upgrade and I'm guessing you have the 3.3ltr engine, if you have a '99...I've got an '01 w/the 3.5 that I'm finally able to use as my toy FULLTIME, so I'm looking to throw some fun money at it at last-lol. Who's brand of exhaust did you use/was it a cat back system, etc, etc?? It DOES have just over 200,000 miles on it & the 2nd to 3rd shift is getting sloppy so some tranny service is definitely in its future, but once that done it's time for GOODIES!! Cheers, Bunchie.
  13. Hey Locator, save ur $$$ and buy a Bull Bar. ARB made one and I totally lucked out and found one w/a 3/8" aluminum skid plate on CL in Squamish. I paid $700, DELIVERED to Cloverdale but again I fluked out on that. They are NOT cheap but they won't fold up and take out ur headlight when it encounters its first 2 inch tree. I saw a pic of one at the Rugged Rocks Off Roads parts website recently. 8 yrs ago I saw one advertised for $1500 USD when I 1st went looking. You might get lucky and find one at a wrecker, on CL or Kijjiji. Also post a wanted in the Parts forum. This year Ill be upgrading my suspension w/parts from SFCreations.com Fluerys owns it SF and is a regular here and hes got a bunch of upgrade goodies available (he's in Quebec) and he's reasonable and readily available to answers Q's. And if I could figure out how to post a pic here, I wouldn't have such a lame avitar and you could see what my Pathy looks like with an ARB Bull Bar....sigh. Good Hunting, V.
  14. Oh and where'd you get the "Sport/Comfort" switch, thats awesome! Jsut waiting for the temp to get above 0º for any length of time so I can put my Xmas present in and have a proper media console and all of my stereo speakrs workin! Then my complete suspension overhaul/upgrade. Been an epic winter so far and great for this years fishing season but, I need to do somethings outside that DON'T require the ground to be frozen. I WILL be asking a lot of Q's to you PF modification veterans in the next few months...like: did you ever find the build sheet anywhere in the interior when you were working on it? Thx
  15. Hey Slarti, I'm kind of curious my did you go w/11 gauge for the face of ur console? Must be a bitch cutting out the switch holes...and no wonder you don't want to add any more "things" to it-lol. I love makin custom stuff like that but my preferred medium is plastics. Little jealous of ur welding skilz, though.I find plastics and their associated adhesives SO versatile AND easy to work with. And with interior parts, plyable is in ur best interest. You smoke ur elbow on that while bouncing around, ur gonna know it...just sayin.
  16. Chicken lips....haha, sometimes I make myself laugh.
  17. Hey Fluerys, I see another good Canadian kid makin quality parts for the World, good on you. I have an ARB bumper and 3/8 inch aluminum front skid plate on my Pathy already, so the crosslink/oilpan/tranny plates seem to be the logical finish to the under chassis protection. Does the crosslink serve any other purpose other than a mounting point for the subsequent pieces of under armour?? Mine's now officially retired from work and is my toy but needs a lot of suspension work as its just plain wore out. I saw ur UHMW suspension blocks and have always wanted my Pathy's suspension to sit a little higher so I will ask you for your recommendations regarding coils/shocks/struts AND bushings, etc, to work in conjunction w/your lift blocks, pls. I would like to be able to get all the required parts together before wandering down to my local suspension dude and have him help me put it all in. Thx in advance & hope you and yours have a Happy New Year. Cheers, Bunchie in BC.
  18. Hey all, been a while since having anything to post about(had truly bazaar electrical problems-key related, that pissed me off so much, I parked the Pathy f/a year and a half & gave it the stink eye everytime I walked by But THAT is a whole other post-lol). Those frikin frakin "chip" keys...lost 1 of the 2 that came w/truck and used the 2nd to death-apparently the "chip" is in a little glass vial and a little fragile. Dropped my keys fifty12 times and ended up damaging the chip enough to corrupt the signal from it to the cpu. (A post of mine, a few years ago, asked why Pathy would start & run for 20 mins then just die.) SORRY I DIGRESS...had to buy new chip key: Ebay; got 2 keys shipped for under $30CAN. Took keys to local locksmith w/tech device to cut & reprogram these "new" keys...dude tells me "These keys do NOT have chips and you got ripped off"...lesson learned. Missed my Pathy and finally went to dealer(sigh) w/truck and original, but now buggered, key. They had it for 3 days, with their #1 tech trying to figure out what up w/the dying after 20 mins thing it was plagued with. Had new key cut & programmed from dealer($130.) Went BACK to locksmith to get a cheaper "clone" key for spare, dude tells me "new OEM key is NOT cloneable"....BASTARDS, I says to myself. The BRIGHT spot in all this: that weird "dying" was ALL caused by that original corrupted key-cost me the better part of $800 by the time all was said and done BUT, ITS ALIVE, MY PATHY'S ALIVE!!!!! NOTE: DO NOT EVER USE ANY "LIQUID" TYPE OF LUBRICANT ON UR DOOR OR IGNITION LOCKS/SWITCHES-These products ATTRACT dirt and abrasives into the fine workings of the locks and will destroy them. Use a "DRY" lubricant w/PTFE such as: Liquid Wrench-Dry Lube made by Solder Seal/GUNK Corp. It's carrier evaporates and all that is left is the PTFE that does the lubricating. WD-40 is for removing sticker goo and catching Halibut only!!!!!
  19. Hey "fellow" Canadian, ur probably NOT going to want to here this but I had a leak that sounds very similar to urs, that ended up being a crossover/connecting tube between the 2 heads-I said "screwit" and took it to my mechanic and he ended up having to remove the tranny in order for him to gain access to that area with his hands(BTW, I have the indentical truck as urs). I seems that anything that req's repair along the rear edge of the engine, is a bitch and/or will cost you some $$$$. case in point:my truck, still under warranty, had the thermostat fail. They first thought it was the rad only to have it overheat and them realize it was the thermostat. Dealer cost to change thermostat....$350!!! just because of where it is. Getting a new rad AND thermostat, while still under warranty.....PRICELESS . I hope I'm wrong as to what has failed on ur Pathy, but.......I'm just sayin'. Cheers.........Bunchie

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