Bunchie

So little update: spent $450 today and got a completely intact LSD, trailing A arms recently rebuilt(MASSIVE BONUS), complete carpet, cat back exhaust, set of wheel lock nuts & driver, and a ton of other little needed parts, screwsns#it. The guys did an awesome job removing the lsd & exhaust! I'm SO happy with this latest purchase. It will make $1000 ride road ready in no time. Tomorrow wrenches and sockets be a spinnin!

Burning mad

RC may not know what it's truly supposed "feel" like. He, like the rest of us, probably bought the truck used. Mine was 3 y/o w/72000 K on it(possibly a lease return). I drove Marvin for the 1st time and it was Metallic Sherwood Green, ARE U KIDDING ME?!?!?! I was in love! I fondly remember that memory but that was 14 y/ago. Hence the massive referbishment of him now. He's acquired "Town Truck" status as he scares me on the hwy now. Id say R is right & L is left...sitting in the drivers seat. My perception. Is there a standard when it comes to this. An ISO 9003somethinerother Global law. If so, WHAT THE HELL IS IT??? Anyone??

Split it is then. Status quo decided, I Thank & Goldy thanx you. Got an 01, lined up, June built, wreck, gold no less, complete rear end+arms removed-properly, carpet, armrest topper, and what ever else needed I can think of for $500 CAN. Set up for the weekend pickup. S#it be happenin peeps! 5 days of SUN minimum and it's a weekend in a day!! Therapy Thursday was a success. Took psrwshr to Goldy's location. 3 shovel's full of beach sand and tree droppings later. I AM GETTING TOO OLD TO WORK ON DIRTY VEHICLES. Especially fine sand...dropin yer face, pissing you off...I digress. Top & bottom cleaned, p-oil on all the fasteners, and ready for disassembly. For a thousand $ turd, she polishes up pretty good. ☆ Bin takin pics on my phone..just gotta get Tapatalk app. Am starting a thread...currently in man cave on tablet...realizing it Friday now & I have 5 calls today...sigh. Good night

Also very helpful: Acronyms. I'll shut up now, haha.

Correction: What is your pathfinders nickname...

Welcome aboard. Great people, information & ideas abound here. Endless entertaining hours can be lost here-lol! Check out "Name your Pathfinder (PF)...noting your name, may I be so bold as to suggest: Cathy (or any variation thereof)..it got the word CAT iiin iiit-just throwing it out there. Side note: My nonnie's name Kathleen. I just bought my 2nd PF on Saturday, Goldy....yeah it's a gold '02, sigh. My '01 is going in for massive upgrades so this llace is a blessing. Is 2 considered a "Fleet"? Have fun, ask Q's, learn stuffnjunk! Cheers, Victor.

Oooh those are some good starting points, Neilca. Pretty simple styling but I could mod the hell out of those. Just getting big pieces cut is a pain. Little pcs-nothin a Zipcut cant take of. Thx

You lucky, lucky barstard, your clock works. Mine hasnt for years. And YES ABSOLUTELY, is the answer to your Q. Dude yer truck is 16 y/o. How many lights have seen last 16 years? Pull yer dash cluster out (plastic removal tools are an asset) and yer heater knob panel too and replace all of them. They're slightly larger than a TicTac. I think my cluster took 7 (maybe more), idiot lights incuded. My Check Engine was on for so many years that it burnt out-lol. Dedicate a full afternoon to do it- just the dirt behind everthing alone will blown yer mind. Dirt attracts moisture and moisture attracts electrical problems...just sayin. Good luck, V

FAIL...sorry. Quote Slarti: "Open/close hood to spot planes!" Dude, that was priceless! !!

Hey boys, just trolling New Content and you gave me an idea...for you...aaand me. I have an aluminum backed, led strip, measures 7 -1/2 (say 8" for electrics) X a hair over 3/8". Dude at electronics shop 2/3 nuked it showing me how good they were. Its NOT marked for polarity-he f'd up and gave it to me nothin. It's only got 2-1/8" worth of 7-1/4" of leds & it hurts to look at NOW. And I only used a 9 volt batt-I think its 12 volt normal load. Here's the kicker, it's almost $50CAN a strip, BUT THE LIGHT IS SICK!! If those 3 plactic slot insets are over 8" long, then you should be golden for mounting them behind the plastic inserts. Already have it designed in my head-lol. A just think of the improved air flow, haha. Cheers, V

His "was" a VERY rusty '96. ICBC wanted an inspection for it to be insured in BC...he said, screw it and bought another PF ('99) for $1200.

My buddy Ben towed a 4200 lb + travel trailer from Quebec last year w/no issues...except when his master brake cylinder failed on a hill coming down into Penticton. He said that was "shorts change worthy"-LOL.

Its mjotrainbrain that's doing the VR35 upgrade to his truck. When you check it out, you will see the acreage that he ended up using for the swap-lol. His pics are great and he's been very detailed in his discriptions of the issues he has encountered. Remember: Work smart, NOT hard! Cheers

Morning RC, another beautiful day in paradise, hey? May I suggest the following factors: budget, time your Pathy will be out of commission, availability of parts/tools & equipment req'd, how long the "Boss" will tolerate having yer truck expoded all over the place-lol(wife's ability to ask "Soooo, how long is this going to take?", when I'm balls deep into a project is uncanny). The diesel option WOULD be cool, but I have NO idea how many systems would req complete change out or modification and subsequent availability of repair parts down the road. There is someone on this forum (will find out who, ina bit) who is currently upgrading his dead(he drowned it in mud)VG33 to a VG35 and has a "progress" thread on the go right now(saw it the other day) with great pics and commentary on issues he's run into. It may be a little eye opening for you- I know it was for me. As I recall he's in Georgia cuz I noticed the bright red color of the mud-Lotsa iron oxide in the soil, where he lives. I just PU'd a 2002 with a broken pass axle for $1K, body is in great shape...has a few minor things to fix as well. $130 for the tow from Coquitlam to Cloverdale. Found a removed & complete rear diff assy(180, K) in MR for $200(hoping gear ratio is the same, find out today), buddy's garage to do it all in-$0-PRICELESS!, just so I can have something to drive while Marvin(my green '01) gets all the new upgrade bits it so deserves. I will start a new build thread when that commences. I'll let you ponder the preceeding comments....enjoy the rest of this fabulous long weekend!

Correction on the year of the donor rear end:2000 not '99. I'll get the former owner to get me that engine bay tag info tomorrow then go check out buddy's "donor" in hopes of a match. Thanx for heads up on "holding one drum stationary" tip. Will advise of outcome of findings. V

Thanx gentleman, mjoTB: what if the complete rear end is out of vehicle? Guess I have do it the old fashioned way by counting the revolutions of the diff yoke, hey? Hawarirish: plan is to swap whole rear end and trailing arms as one unit. The replacement unit's probably got north of 220 K on it, so end bushings, etc should be replaced. So as Ill have the truck in the air to begin with why not swap the one w/catastrophic failure to something, for a few hundred bucks that is, at least, intact and will have new "Anti Death Wobble" bushings. The body is almost mint and as an occational use vehicle, it will tide me over til Marvin's upgrades are complete. The wife likes driving my PF and may consider swapping her '08 Sentra for a nice looking 2002 PF if I polish it up all real perdylike and fix the misc little fails it has. BOTH of you: any preference between the split or the solid TA bushing?? Cheers, V

So here's the story: bought a '02 LE yesterday for a $1K. It has catastrophic rear passenger axel failure: believe the retaining clip in the pumpkin failed and the entire axel/brake drum/wheel assy has walked out and now right side rear looks like a dragster-lol. I suspect now that the axel shaft splines are roached. so I found a complete '99 rear end assy for $200 on CL. MY QUESTION IS AS FOLLOWS: did Nissan make any changes in the rear end specs between'99 & '02 that I need to worry about; like gearing, to be specific???? Overall the body is in great shape-better than Marvin(my 1st & current R50), it's got the LE rims I've always wanted and an Alpine touch screen stereo completely set up w/sub woofer connections(Bonus). It does a few other issues-AC/heater fan, drivers window no worky and the beige (AACK) leather front seats are toast, These issues are minor as I'm a low voltage electrician & good fixer of broken s#it. The plan is to fix the '02-henceforth to be known as "Goldy", and use it for my day to day needs, so that total upgrade work can commence on Marvin. Yeah, personal injury insurance settlements! Good people, I need yer expertise and insight. Much thanx in advance. Chher, Victor.

Hey mjo & megaton, are we talkin front or rear bumpers here? I've got an ARB front bumper on mine but wish to do something for the rear. Am consideing fabing one from scratch BUT if I could mod an existing rear application THAT would be sick!! Any thoughts???

Name: Marvin. Color: Green. Standard Ordinance: Full Premium Fuel Load and 1 X Illudium Q36 Expolsive Space Modulator Mission: To witness "Earth Shattering Kaboom!" Where's the Earth Shattering Kaboom!?!?!

If the engine runs fine for a while, it CANNOT be timing gears (?????) It just doesn't make sense. Just sayin...

That seems like a pretty ambitious project...are you ready to spend a lot of time and money in this endeavor? Dont get me wrong but a diesel would be cool for sure but the 3.5 IS a good engine and you should be able to find one for a reasonable price from a wrecker or someone whose parting one out. Just sayin...

Also: replace that thermostat. Although you have the 3.3 and its reasonably accessible, its been sitting outside for a while and it's a cheap part(I always test a new one by putting it in a pot of water and heating it up to make sure it indeed does open)-I had one that didn't, right out of the box. Soooo frustrating if you make the assumption that it will work and it don't!

I can appreciate the "God saved my ass" statement. I truly believe that if he wasn't involved in my life, I wouldn't be here to make that previous statement...ALWAYS BE THANKFUL!! Sorry, I'm rambling. Check CL for an engine stand. It doesn't have to be new just solid. You should spend no more than a $100. Bought mine off CL for $75 then sold it for $80 when I was done w/it. WINNING! You may indeed use the best of both engines for maximum efficiency of your endeavor. And investigate that "silicone" thing you showed us-it may have been someone's stopgap measure that might bite you in the butt later on. If your budget allows, replace as many of those "hard to reach" gaskets as you can. And as to "Why...Just why?" cuz you can't fix stupid or lazy. Just sayin...V.