Bunchie

Goldy's dash/console lights dont work but the one console (ashtray) bulb tested is fine-multimeter tested. Exhaustive scrutiny of the fuse boxes says nothing about dash lights. I know this is a nube Q, but... Yes the headlights were turned on and i played w/dimmer switch. And the PO's husband was a maintenance moron-her words, not mine, lol. Haven't noticed this before as all work has been done during the day and it's been low on the priority list til now. Thanx in advance, V.

Yeah, further eyeballing shows a single dimple on ALL 3 sprockets-it HAS to be something related to timing...

Yeah, further eyeballing shows a single dimple on ALL 3 sprockets-it HAS to be something related to timing...

Clarity is a most wonderful thing. Nothing wrong w/being a little paranoid when it comes to working w/what you are right now. Grenading your engine is NOT in your best interest-lol. General Q, anyone: a closer look at the last pic supplied, shows a small dimple on one tooth, just below the stamped "R 3" on the sprocket. What's that for??? Have a feeling that it may have to do timing possibly....thoughts?

Well, a reasonably productive day:got all the door panels & associated switches installed. Fixed the failed climate control system-the fan was the only actual issue. Glad I grabbed the one that someone had graciously removed for me, at the wreckers-lol. Ran it for a half an hour and all seems to be functioning fine. I'm hoping it will only the addition of a accessory belt(currently missing), that will make the AC work but I'm not holding my breath-lol. FINALLY found a set of 6 way power seats that WILL work in the truck!! I think that once they are in, Goldy just may be road ready! This has taken much longer than originally anticipated but I'm still under $2000 for the project and when Marvin is finished I can always sell it to recoup my cash outlay-WINNING!

Always wondered about this mod...and as this seems to be a "hit n miss" thread, the only pics were of the filter itself were from Rebelord. How much of a beeeotch is it to do this job? Is there provision for this filter in the baseline heater housing? Pics would be wonderful and are worth a thousand words...thx, V

And why would you want the slidyspliney bit down at the rearend level w/all the dirt & water? I didn't know the 2 pcs were balance mated. Interesting. Is/was there any factory marking of that point, on the DS?

Wait, WHAT?? I hope you mean "with another coil" Otherwise you're just moving the $#itty one to a different spot and THAT would be silly. DYK, on the VQ35, the #1 coil pak is different than all the rest? And at least that one should be OEM as Nissan ignition systems of that era, are looking for a very special resistance in its coils and using jobber units are known to be of issue bc of their less than exacting tolerances. Personal experience.

I agree, but remember that they are all squirting the same gas...what condition are the others in at this point in its life? Budget dependant, of course. Couldn't hurt to check cylinder #6 while you got ur tools out...

I told it to be a responsible truck and drive my wife's dear drunken friend home...and it did. IM SO PROUD. I love my truck!

NOPE that's just one more needless endeavor/idea/plan...I've already got enough of those, thanx. I gotta stick w/the original plan: buy those seats. Try tomorrow, bin nuts all week & 30th anniversary on Wed.... that's more than half my life...sorry, I digress....JK!

Soooo, the driver's seat right seat track works awesome but not so much(like nothin)on the left side. That funky nylon gear is stripped by the sound its making....sigh. AND the 99's seats dont have the same connector....dbl sigh. I guess I'll be buyin those seats from the jy...heavier sigh.

Guys: The '02 definitely has a visible airbag tag(black w/white lettering)near the top, door side, of the seat back. My '01 does NOT have that tag on the seat, mind you, they are base model manual seats. It may have been a model year upgrade like the new electronic climate control system, mind you I'm just speculating here but the evidence seems to back this up. Slarti: I agree w/you re the "do it right or don't do it at all" mentality-I truly hate halfassed anything. So as the original seats are truly $#itcanned, I can use the 98 seats for now and in the meantime, either reskin the old seats or see if those 01 seats at the jy are still available.... I'll go over to the truck and see if my seat drive motor fix actually worked...will advise.

You MAY have done that before-lol. It's the only yellow connector, all others are white or blue so I'm assuming that its for the side airbag-wire from it seems to go off in that direction. Shows continuity at 0.00 ohms when measured. The replacement 98's seats have no yellow connector or airbags. Im thinking that if that airbag's mechanism works like an alarm system's siren tamper loop-a super low voltage senses continuity and a higher voltage triggers the siren (airbag) what would happen electrically, if the airbags actually deployed. Or should I even give a F, as my truck will have damaged enough to deploy the the bags and unlikely to be salvageable at that point anyway-haha. Ive got the seat pan unbolted-3 easy, one a bioch when seat is all the way back position-may try to swap w/98 seat pan...or if the prior track unsiezing was successful, I might just buy the seat i found at the jy whose forward/back seat motor didn't work-I didnt know about the tapping of the motor trick when I was there last-and try to get it for a song cuz that part is BROKEN, then swap the motor out of the original seat if the tap tap DOESNT work. Will be able to make firm decision once its tested tomorrow. Sorry, I kind of rambled in this post...

Hey kids, Goldy(02) has full deal leather seats but they are toasted(looks like an elephant used them...a LOT) BTW, I was investigating why the right side slide didnt work/move at all: used 1/2 a can of brake clean to get the handfull of sand out of the track/bearing assy and as you cant actually remove or disassemble those tracks, it was a bit of a bitch but an hour + , many 'goo' covered rags and a liberal application of Moly Dry Lube later, it moves effortlessly. Also removed & checked the condition of the little nylon drive gear-still looks intact unlike the one on the YouTube video. Will chech actual operation later today to see if has solved THAT issue. SO! I Got a set of '98 leather replacement seats but they DON'T have the airbags option. Q: How can I bypass the seat airbag sensor if I install the 98 seats into the 02??? Seems that the airbag light is on currently w/the seats out and connector unplugged... Ideas pls...thx, V.

I have a June built 01 model year and it has the rotary HVAC controls. My 02 has the electronic HVAC control so I would say that the change happened in the 02 year model. That's one of the things the PO said didn't work on the 02. Yet another Roundtoit-lol.

FORD: Flip Over Read Directions Had one for 11 years, it failed me once(65 F100, BB). Had others(5: 73 Mustang, 75 Maverick, 81 Zephyr, 81 LTD, 84 Crown Vic Wagon) When the last one's engine's electrical failed, I sed, "F it" and bought Marvin. That was 13 y/ago. Haven't looked back....although I REALLY miss my 72 510 & 72 240Z...shoulda NEVER sold THEM...sad face. I digress....

$3?!?!? Seriously? On a 4WD thats a pretty important part to be worth only $3....? Ive seen them let go-it can be spectacular! Lol Where are they made?, he asks knowingly.. BTW, do them both. You got the ds out already. Work smart, not hard. V

Its called Sil-Glyde(Dad had it for years. Made in CANADA, discribed as: a non-petroleum lubricating compound, using synthetic and natural oils. NOT dielectric. Designed originally for brake systems. Will dry out and crack eventually. ) & it's about the consistency of med/thick grease. I cleaned the old lube off the rail the glide runs on w/brake clean and the reapplied the Sil-Glyde, sparingly, to the inside and outside of the rail, the cable & its nylon cable slides at each end and even put some in the slots on the cable spool. Free ran it up/down n got the spot I missed the first time. TO DO: 10mm socket. Cut a U shaped flap, the width of the small grey structual plate, in vap barrier & roll up, secure w/tape. Remove plate(4 screws), drop wind down til glas bolts show. CAREFULLY hold glas & removed the 2 screws that actually hold the glass and then lift it up a bit & tip it towards the front end, slowly pulling it away from the vehicle. Set safely aside. 2: get ur #2 Philips & an old, soapy and wet, terry rag, fold, x 2, over screwdriver and from the top, slowly draw the cleaning tool down the glide slots. Careful, they're foam rubber. Did about 5 passes min, all way round, top to bottom. Presoaked entire felts w/windex-anything will work. Once you see the crap ur cleaning out, you'll understand whats been slowing it down. NOW, once that's all clean and dry, I use spray silicone in the entire seal. Matter of fact, I use it anywhere foam/rubber touches metal-fantastic in the wintertime! Remember the glass you set aside? Clean it, especially the edges-notice the vertical scratches? Yeah so did I-lol. Reassemble, use 1000 mile hr tape to seal it back up, ENJOY!!

Good news everyone, Goldy is back on the ground and running-exhaust stud fixed and all buttoned up. Oil n filter changed. New to me, drivers window mechanism cleaned, lubed, installed & working wonderfully-forgot how fast they were supposed to be, ha. Got 2 more dr panels to re, clean & re. Figured out that the drvrs seat issue will be a relatively easy fix-thank you dude on YouTube video-little nylon gear. I should be able to cannibalize the one from spare pass seat assy. Either that or pay $40 for a new 1 from Amazon-yikes!! NOTE: seat motors not working? 2 possibilities: coins jammed in track; ie: 1 side only works-this can also destroy that little nylon gear OR motor needs to be hit(tapped)w/hammer-Nissan Percussive Maintenance Program, Lovin it!! Apparently the motors can get "stuck/locked" in 1 place & quite often a tap or 2 will get them moving again. Probably just a dirty spot on the armature. Think I'll attempt that gear replacement tonight, if no plans have been made by the Social Secretary. Made a new vapor barrier, as PO(Wienney McHackerson)felt it unnecessary to replace it after he butchered the fact. stereo wiring...oh yeah gotta solder 2 wires in there too, then the door panel can be put back on. PO said Climate Control wasn't working...haven't really investigated but I DO know the AC pump belt is NONEXISTENT-got some new belts already-just another "roundtoit".... Got a lot done in last 2-3 days so must push on while im still motivated, wish me luck, V.

Hey kids, I've got an ARB Sahara bull bar on my '01. Got it used(CL-$700), about 6-7 y/a w/no instructions and I did NOT have to relocate ANYTHING. I DID remove the lower plastic inner fenders as one was toasted(from a trifecta of low speed rearenders I'm not too proud of) & I haven't bothered to trim them and reinstall. It bolted right up, no probs whatsoever-did it by myself too. BTW, tristin1035, thx for the pdf of the instruction sheet.

Welcome, I've been using synthetic in mine, since I bought it back in '04. It is my theory that bc of that, I now have 208 K miles on it and it still pulls strong. This place has a wealth of information and if ur not careful it has the ability to make HOURS disappear-lol. BTW, I've got a gold '02, I named Goldy, so I got dibs on that name-haha. Happy truckin', cheers, V.

My '01 & '02 PF's were built there too.

Remember those bearings sit in grease and it does wear out and its pretty easy to check for damage-no damage, cleanum real good and hand repack w/quality wheel bearing grease...it IS labour intensive but Ive got over 335K on my originals and that speak volumes on maintaining a part w/the right product. Just sayin, work smart, not hard.