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Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST


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Everything posted by Bunchie

  1. Brother Man, that DOES suck! A lot of factors contribute to the aaah, how shall put this?.?.?.the uncontrolled, obtuse angle, detrimental, parking action you and your passengers recently found yourselves in. The road conditions, tires, weight within the vehicle and how it was distributed, etc. Also consider you as the driver, your overall driving expertice and how and what you did/didn't do to mitigate your deposit into the afore pictured ditch. Or as to quote my ever tactful(NOT) wifey, "wtf, is he an idiot? Who drives into a ditch?!?!?"(you can take that for what it's worth-lol) Also I did NOT immediately respond with, "Me! twice, no wait, 3 times to be precise" cuz after being 30+ years w/the same woman, it behoves me NOT to give her any ammunition as I already provide her towards the undisputable evidence that she married an idiot-HAHA!! Just to be clear, 2 of those 3 times, road conditions were leading cause. The other time, well, that was definitely me, just being fakin retaaaaaded! Oh and the time I spun it 180º into the opposite curb and did $1800 worth of suspension damage. Conditions; cold, wet, slick wide white crosswalk lines, ****** tires and a good deal of weight in the truck...oh yeah maybe speed factored into it too. We all F up, the thing is to LEARN from it!!! BTW, I personally don't think that ur gonna be able to buff that out. Ur truck was looking good before that sadness. You may want to start hunting for a $1000 or less donor truck and put all ur goodies into that. Even with the limited view of ur damage I can see, it very well may be a cheaper way to go... Just sayin... Good luck
  2. So I guess the real question is: How much does Jimmy John's pay you to drive ur baby into the ground?
  3. I'll give you my opinion: you have to ask yourself, how invested am I in a 15 yo, 300K truck? Is it my DD/Toy or both? Don't get me wrong, ive had a 510, a 240Z, Celica & an 81 Mercury Monarch-302HO, ALL stick cars & ALL fun!! But if ur gonna use it for its intended purpose(4wheelin) then stick w/the automatic. Overall I believe it's the better choice. Either fix the reverse prblm or drive a half hour to the Wack and get one at Pickapart. At least their prices are advertised and somewhat warrantied-lol. My 2CW...oh I guess it's my 5CW now as we no longer have pennies, haha.
  4. Gentlemen, granted the next generation of mechanical connections/crimping tools do an exceptional job, I, as a NONrecovering tool junkie, have a hard time justifying the cost of a lot of these types of tools/fittings because of the limited use Victor Average will use the damn thing. And I can honestly say I haven't seen a decent solder job fail. My perspective....
  5. Ratchet wrenches are the S#it!! I got both SAE & Metric. They cost a pretty penny but worth every one of them. Maybe HF has their our brand like Princess does up here. I lucked out, both 12 pc sets at my local swap meet, new, for under a $100-WINNING! And Princess has their own brand-seen them on sale lately for under $100.
  6. THAT sounds like no distributor vacuum advance. I may be talking out of my butt (correct me if I'm wrong) but the distributor needs to be mechanically advanced when you put ur foot into it, ie: vacuum to suck the diaphragm and move the dist base plate, in turn advancing the spark timing. If you have no vacuum advance, any acceleration relies on the weights on the base plate to do any advancing and THAT'S painfully slow. Does it behave that way in P or N? W/the 3.3, ur still dealing a w/vacuum controlled engine. 3.5(w/I got)is ALL electronic. Different beast entirely. Get/borrow a simple vacuum guage-most are even marked "Vacuum Leak"(mine is) & see what it says. The other test is: remove cap/rotor, plug a long enough piece of vac hose to the vacuum diaphragm, while looking at the dist base plate, suck on the hose and see if the base plate turns slightly. If it don't, either the diaphragm/rod/plate are the problem (maybe check ur old one 1st. Lemme know what you find. Cheers, V
  7. I also have to consider the charge(s) at the border once I bring it across from my mailbox in Blaine. That and my ****** Can $. It kinda sux working on 2 PF's that need a lot of new parts at this point in their lives-lol.
  8. Hey Brian, electricity, not unlike water, will find the shortest route to ground. A Sparky's 1st rule, hence your problems. If poss, double up on the heat shrink, solder ur connections when at all possible (a true mechanical connection) and use dielectric grease(moisture protection)on ALL ur spade & terminal connectors. I'm not sure what the speaker mfgr's are thinking when including that 24 Guage @!*%e wire they throw in the packaging but NEVER use it. Unless you are driving a stupid amount of amps, 18/2 STRANDED is more than addiquit for your purposes. Homie D/Lowes has it by the foot-and always get more than you THINK you need. I LOVE tools but I have yet to find a "wire stretcher-lol. 27+ years as a low voltage technician, I know of what I speak.
  9. Remus, thx for the clarity on this as I've never purchased anything from RA or much of anything else online for that matter and rather just ask a Q if I'm not sure. Going to check w/my parts dood and see what sort of pricepoint he can get me and try to keep it local. Learned a long time ago, those who think they know everything are overcompensating for something and will be made to look the fool, sooner or later.
  10. HEY those last few answers answered a Q I hadn't gotten around to asking yet, THANX!
  11. BEST carpet cleaner I ever found is a product called FOLEX. Been around for 40 years. That @!*% is amazing! It took everything except some coffee(???) stains conveniently located under back edge of the center console. Gave up w/the Bissel Green Machine (exhausting) and just sprayed the Folex on, scrubbed w/a stiff brush (had to keep it damp w/a spray bottle in the 95ºF heat) then sucked it back out w/the W/D Shopvac.
  12. Hey 01,thx for directional insight btw. it seems that the compatibility run is from '00 to '04. The part # 821365(Rockauto) for a "new" Cardone Select unit at $76.62CAN or I can get a A1 Select(#471365) reman for $69.93 plus $59.61 core charge???? I don't quite understand how that works or the difference in quality..can you send ur old one to them to save the $59. core charge? is the reman an OEM, just refurbished (new brushes, cleaning & grease)? And the "new" one, someone else's take the the OEM part. Do you know? Rockauto doesn't explain that "core" charge anywhere i can see. Vagueness abounds-lol. Checked out ebay and the prices are all over the map...for instance I can get a complete motor & track assy for slightly less than a motor/drive itself. TOO MANY CHOICES!!!!! All I want is the freakin window to go up & down...sigh.
  13. Privous owner said drivers window stopped working. Fine. Pulled it all apart and have determined the motor is toast. Though a '99 one would work, NO. All Very different. Does anyone know what other years will work on the '02. Id rather locally source one if possible. Thx
  14. Hey One, I think you got urself a small leak somewhere. Lol But it IS a nice uniform brownish color and you know exactly what IT is. The entire interior in mine was removed and binned save for the dashboard. I DON'T want to know what the previous owner, her young son and dog did in that truck prior to my purchase of it but sufficed to say, I have seen cleaner restaurant dumpsters than what I found when I started removing the seats, etc. Nytrile gloves, a given. and serious thoughts about a hazmat suit. Found over $10 in shrapnel entombed in an indescribable black tarlike substance that took me 2 long evenings to get down to the original sound deadener and paint color. And a LOT of screamin hot soapy water. Sure looks/smells nice and sanitary in there now. Cleaned the biege carpets today and I'll let them bake in the sun tomorrow. I do like Hawairish's idea about the rubber "carpet". My buddy just takes the hose and the shop vac to it after we go fishin. Loop carpet is about the worst idea for what we do w/those truck I'm going to and may I suggest using a dielectric grease on all those connections while you've got them all conveniently exposed.
  15. I tend to agree w/Citron on his point. So, that being said, if you ARE concidering buying a new PF, may I suggest you look up here rather than stateside only, for 2 reasons: 1) your $ is worth 1.25 % more up here and 2) there are a lot of PF's for sale up here, in good condition, for reasonable $$'s. Budget dependant, for example, right now on CL, a 2004 R50 Chilkoot ed., 300K kms (that's 200K MILES), female driven from/to school (no 4x4ing-sez that in ad) touch screen stereo, etc, owner looking for a quick sale $3200 CAN OBO. You're only a couple of hours down the hwy and it might worth your while to check it out. I would be willing to forward some potential candidates if you are interested. For instance just PU'd a 2002 R50 that needed repairs(spent a Grand on parts in total) for $1000. Just throwing it out there.....
  16. Update: got the old n broken one out and the "new to me" one in and all buttoned up. Also got the exhaust system in(broke 1 stud during disassembly but bought some OEM replacements-on Saturday's list), completely gutted and tossed that NASTY old interior and spent 2 entire evenings cleaning, correction scrubbing the entire inside of it w/screaming hot water, Mr Clean and a shop vac. It actually smells pleasant inside now. Last night I started reassembly of interior, rerouted the amp wiring, readying it for carpets n junk. I DO have an issue w/the drivers window: no action at all. Not entirely sure if the switch is toasted or its the motor (BTW: Big difference between a '99 & a '02 window motor & switch: '99 has a 2 wire motor connection, '02 has a 6 wire. '99 switch is also much smaller in all aspects-the 11teen pin connector is the same though but nothing happened when I connected it and tried it-so I'm leaning towards the motor OR maybe the window is just STUCK, like the passenger one was... Most disappointed as I thought I was being clever grabbing the switch n motor assy from that '99 I got the interior out of. Back at it on the weekend and hoping I don't get any call outs as I'm on call this weekend-lol.
  17. Hey Stumpy, I had a similar go/no go problem w/my R50 that made me slightly crazier than normal. Mine turned out to be caused by a damaged/corrupted chip key which, in turn, heated up a single ignition circuit wire in the steering column just enough to cause an heat induced, open circuit on that wire. Painfully it cost me $614. for diagnosis and repair and another $125 for an OEM(now NON-clonable, the bastards)chip key. I know this is not truly a solution to ur problem but I believe ur on the right track w/the heat being the culprit. I'm leaning towards the ignition circuit rather than the starting circuit. That's my 2CW.
  18. Looking at ur pix, I would say you may have a grounding problem. Ur pretty much on an island surrounded by salt water. Bare metal clean, ur grounding points and reassemble using NeverSieze(or equivalent). Electricity will always find the shortest route to ground. Security Tech, journeyman, 27 yrs. Update findings....
  19. Knowing where you are, there are probably not a lot of machine shops handy. Worst case: new shoes and take some emery cloth to the drums, enough to take the glaze off (or a flap wheel on a drill). I used a resin disc on a 4.5 inch angle grinder using a "round and round" motion so as to keep the material removal uniform. I'm cheap and work smart NOT hard-lol. BTW, my back brakes work great now.
  20. OH mjo, They're SO not telling us! Be prepared son, be prepared. This bliss won't last. Oh, And have a nice day.
  21. Troubleshooting 101: find a nice smooth(fresh pavement if possible) ) piece of road & safely power stop. Determine your base line. Problem remains, jack it up and check for slop. Dude, u gotta '01 like me. How many miles on it? I've got 208k miles on mine and ALL the wiggly bits need to be replaced. Does it feel like the ass end wants to guide the direction when stopping? THAT'S DEATH WOBBLE, I got that too. Upper/lower rear control arm bushings. Lots of threads on that, here. Just did my 1st complete rear end swap on the $1K Pathy I bought to getme around while I "fix" Marvin. Did have help though. Do you have gearhead friends? For me, I have a feeling fishing will take a back seat to Marvin's build this year. It's just what you have to deal with, with an almost 20y/o vehicle. Cheers, V.
  22. Citron: "sapling", that's priceless! Sounds like ur showing off cuz "we" live in the stunningly green Pacific NW!! My Top 5 items are: TP, LED Light, knife, water, fire device, vodka(just a micky, for medicinal purposes, ya understand...well mostly). Pretty much been that order for 40 years now. And I guess it's all relative to the number of bodies on board, if you have a sturdy roof rack and how long an adventure. Rule of thumb is: enough to survive for 3 days, each. Seems most everybody here is relatively ready for the ZA. Remember, we ARE pre-Z. Its not a matter of if, but WHEN. Just sayin.... Oh HEY, IT'S THE FIRST DAY OF SUMMER!!!!! WOO WOO
  23. Consider your ground point(s). Electricity will always find the shortest route to ground...which can lead to "unpredictable results".
  24. Hey rc, can you define the noises u hear? Like does it make the sounds ALL the time or only when u hit bumps or travel rough roads? Steering: what are the condition/quality are ur tires? I just swapped the'02 le rims & tires onto Marvin b4 driving out to the 'Wack on Sunday-holy crap what a difference-I'd say 80% less Death Wobble (paid $300 for 4 decent nissan 6 spoke & new tires on Friday)and looks GREAT TOO! Maybe tie rod ends: w/a helper at the unlocked steering whl & engine off, get underneath the front end w/a good light and have them turn the wheel slightly back & forth to check for excess play/movement. Are they still full of grease(they should be plump) or even have g nipples? I dont think my stock ones do. Previous owner may have been a "foot on brake and turn the steering wheel" type of owner-premature failure factor. BTW, did you grease those new end links? This time, for s#its & giggles I decided to READ the piece of paper that came in the package: it said to "ensure you fill the links w/grease before driving vehicle" Moog. I'm sure I cooked the prior set cuz I didn't read the instructions, just sayin.

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