Bunchie

Yeah I would 2nd that idea...got abuddy who owns a autobody/restoration shop & he sez the ONLY way to deal with automotive cancer is to remove it completely and replace it w/new sheet metal(and they do a LOT of it). I realize that may be financially impractical for you but there products like Rustmort, etc, that will, at least, halt the spread of the rust. Consider checking out high school auto shops...sometimes they will take on outside projects simply for the chance of the students being able to work on a different vehicle other than the few thay may have been donated to the school.

I guess it all depends on your motivation factor. Someone was selling a 98 PF auto trans for $200 CAN recently so if you could find something like that, you'd only be into it for $850 plus whatever time it takes to re & re the tranny. Then flog it & make yerself some extra cashola!!!

Hey Ryan, the green beasty is looking good...almost as good lookin as MY green beasty-lol. Curious, are your roof racks aftermarket? They don't look like my stock ones. Opinion has it that the stock cross supports aren't very strong, especially if you want to put a "supplies" rack up there. Id post a pic of mine but I haven't been able to figure out how to do it on my tablet without it saying frustrating things like "ur file is too big"...but then that's what ALL the girls say, Bwahahahahaha

Any reoccurrences?? Did you try the tranny fluid?

"No bushings", Bwahahahahaha! Um, dude, you MIGHT just want to tackle ur our repairs...I'm sure you can't screw it up any more than ur local "Professionals" as the recent evidence attests...just sayin, V.

Pathy looks GOOOOOD, Towndog! Do you have rim spacers on ur ride? I ask as those "stock" rims seem to be at least flush w/the outside edge of the fender flairs...and that's not "normal"...

No one has mentioned that when reassembling the ground points, to use an ANTISIEZE COMPOUND between the terminal and the frame. That being said, I use Neversieze on almost any threaded item I take apart and reassemble, especially on any exterior fastening point. That stuff last almost forever...

Personally, I'm not sure if it would be worth all the effort, as a turbo is designed for continuous higher rpm speeds...whereas a Supercharger, like the one found in certain Xterras, will provide increased power all across the rpm range. If ur 4WDing, you need power at all different rpm's. I believe that the better value for your $$ would be to ensure ur electrics are the best you can get or upgrade to. Ive noticed that a lot of member's upgrades have included a higher output alternator(considering that myself). Hope this helps, cheers.

Back in the day, when I was young and my hair wasn't gray, I used to take my 65 2WD F100 all over the place. Why, you might ask? Because it was a truck! The simple advantage was that it was much taller than a car and designed for use where you wouldn't/shouldn't take a car. This being said, I DID have a Jack-All, come-along and a Tugum Strap on board, just in case I DID get stuck. Sounds like you've done enough upgrades to definitely to be able to go out there and "play" off pavement. You will soon figure out where the limits of ur buggy and ur driving skills extend. I'm sure you can find w/a 4WD owner in ur area to "play" with, that will overlook ur truck's shortcomings-lol. You will never know, unless you try! Get out there man!!

Well MINE doesn't whine-it just rattles a lot now but that's a entirely different issue-lol and when I drained both diffs, what came out, definitely WASN'T silvery-Silvery...yeah, THAT'S BAD!!

I'm sorry, but what you have there is a "Pavement Princess"...I know, it's probably NOT what you wanted to hear. What XPLORx4 said is quite accurate.

Receiver! Excellent starting point Citron, thx. I'll do my research cuz its PROBABLY buried somewhere stupid. Still gotta install my Xmas pres so I'll be opening up the dash for that as soon as the temp reaches double digits Celsius, so I'll do it at the same time.

Is it common for the fobs to fail? I have 2 having both failed. Niether have worked for quite a while. NOT the batteries (CR2025). Worth it buying OEM to see or better value to convert it to aftermarket? Comment/ideas pls...

Hey RC, I agree w/LittleFR's assessment that the possibility of bushing failure in contributing to ur continued consumption of end links. I've just recently got my Pathy back on the road and prior to that, hadn't done anything, suspension wise, for at least a 100 K. NOW, back on the road, I'm noticing it pulls to the right, the sway bar end links are rattling, etc. It's all getting replaced this year, once this freak winter decides to move on...TO ALBERTA, where it belongs!!! 2 ft of snow...on Salt Spring...all in one shot..."Aaah Houston, WTF?...OVER"

Sometimes a lifter will collapse; meaning the fluid(oil)contained within it, essentially leaks out because of the pressure of the rest of the valve train pushing on in. You mentioned it sat for 5 years. In that amount of time,easily one of those lifters could have "collapsed": how long has it been back in operation and "running"? By using the tranny fluid, it may be a simple way of getting the required fluid back into the lifter WITHOUT having take half ur engine apart to get to the culprit lifter. Try this method first before delving into more advanced troubleshooting. If ur explanation is correct, the "tapping" DEcreases at low RPM's, which should mean the lifter is not being "hammered" by the cam's slower revolutions. All the tension in the valve train is produced by the valve spring itself: that may also be the problem. If you used the original valve springs for the rebuild, one of them may be failing or have failed. Unless you had actually checked all of them, you probably made the assumption that they were all good (understandable-they don't fail very often). Depending on your mechanical skill level, use the "Stethoscope" method to determine on which side the suspect valve is, pop off that valve cover and check for any obvious issues: cam, springs or anything that may not look kosher. Replacing the spring is relatively straight forward but there are certain specific tools you will need. Try the tranny fluid first and see if there is any change. It won't happen immediately so run it gently for a day on so and see what the results are. Good luck and advise of results. Cheers, V.

Hmmm, my jury is still out on this mod...nice work though... I personally think it's a LOT of work for a minimal sight line advantage, but each to their own. Good luck w/the fin.

And if it's low, add some tranny fluid instead of oil. The tranny fluid should clean any guck that may be causing the lifter to stick. The tranny fluid won't hurt anything in the engine. Source: Old mechanic's trick.

Kinda curious about the areas ur finding these little gems to drive on...do people have properties/cabins up there? Or is it State owned land? We have a lot of FSR's (forestry service road)out here in BC, but a lot of them just go to areas where they are still logging. I have yet to start blazing some trails in my Pathy-I'll feel more confident about taking her out once I replace all the worn out & wiggly bits it so desperately needs. Must admit, I'm a little jealous of you and your monkeys at this moment in time. Enjoyable vids, BTW.

That's awesome! Necessity is the mother of invention...I should know, I'm a charter member of Team Winginit-lol. Ur lucky to be able to get out and about this time of year. We've been slammed w/snow for the last month out here in the Pacific Northwest, which is unusual for the coast (Vancouver, BC). Mind you, if I want adventure, all I need do is go for a drive on the streets these days, with the overabundance of clueless drivers we seem to have out here. But such are the trials of livin in paradise!! Look forward to seeing more of your adventures, cheers.

Hey folks, thanx for all the answers to my questions. Adamzan, I live in a suburb of Vancouver. It's called Cloverdale and those of use who live here, like to say we live in Cloverdale bc it means we don't have to say we live in SURREY-LOL! Well it looks like we've had our last dump of snow for this year...we don't get snow here all that often and year's allotment was more than most people around here have any sort of clue how to deal with. Now maybe I can get on with the list of repairs required for Pathy so she's Summer ready!!

And what's your reason for the rear sway bar delete? You didn't do that to the front did you? And where did you mount ur air compressor or did you just use a refillable pig? In process of deciding what all to do for overall upgrades.. Great pics, btw, super clear. Didnt have to squint my old man eyes once! Thx

Wife is just talking to her Mom and she says they have almost 2 feet and it's snowing w/a vengeance again...might have to take a run out there in case they need any provisions. They have a 2 WD SUV and I dont want them driving that in these conditions...BUT I WILL, HEEHEEHEE! I love my Pathy!

Ok y'all y'all, I started this thread and now I have a few Q's regarding your answers/comments. Citron: thank you, I did not know how ethanol affected the ignition of the fuel. Is that ALL it does? Do you know WHY they seem to put it in all the "lower" grade fuels? LittleFR: Trying to understand how Sta-bil factors in to the ethanol equation. Ive noticed here in Vancouver, & BC in general, most of the main fuel suppliers state, on the pumps, that fuel "may contain up to 10% ethanol", except for "premium" which seems to contain NO ethanol. Both 93 and 94(available at Chevron only) are considered "premium". Anyone: Is/was the 3.5 ltr engine made from 2001 and on, always built as a 10:1 compression engine and thus requires the premium fuel? Adamzan: Hey buds, don't be moaning about the local gas prices...I put $40 CAN into the tank yesterday at $1.47 per litre only so I could get 20X the Airmiles, "premium fuel" offering at Shell(with min 25 litre purchase)-haha, just so I could get a half a tanks worth of fuel. So using the following formula: $1.47 X 3.78 (ltrs in a gallon)=$5.56 CAN for a "gallon" of premium...now let's factor in that US/CANADIAN exchage rate at X 1.27% =$7.06 per gallon!!!! JC, that's just SO wrong on a multitude of levels.... Everyone: Now I hope y'all have a clear idea of why I'm asking about HAVING to run premium in my ride. Well it snowed here again yesterday and last night...about 8 inches overall (inlaws about 1/2 hour away got 1-1/2 feet-lucky them) so I think I'll put some clothes on and go see if I can burn off some of that expensive premium fuel I have use...after all, I wouldn't want it to go BAD!! CHEERS from snowy Vancouver.

Hey Al, and welcome! I'm pretty new here too but there is an ocean of knowledge and lots of members w/repair & upgrade experience willing to guide you(and me-lol). 1st, you have a 22 y/o truck and by now all the original soft and wiggly bits are pretty much done. Unclear as to what kind of condition the vehicle is in currently...how much it got beat on enviroment, etc. That being said, depending on ur budget, try to buy those parts first. Bushings, shocks, tie rod ends(even ball joints), end links, etc. I know with my 01, there were NOT a lot of those lubed joints that actually had grease nipples to renew the lube so once the rubber cracked they would start to dry out-my current problem: all that stuff needs to be replaced at this point in its life (325, km). I know here in Canada, you can return auto parts fairly easily: unused & w/receipt, so long as they're not "electrical parts". Use the search bar to find posts of other members, narrating their repair journeys, short cuts, btw's, links, etc, frequency of failure of the parts you are thinking of replacing. Other associated and possible failing parts: get 1 front & 1 rear brake line, just in case. Sounds like you won't be able to "pop" down to auto parts store where you going...a set of brass drifts-always handy, a few of those little S/S wire brushes, files-round & flat, anti sieze compound, 1 inch putty knife or scraper, some emery cloth, 2 cans of brake clean, Vise Grip pliers-small, pry bar, a can of GOOD penetraiting fluid-NOT WD-40! Gotta throw the tablet on the charger, I'm in the Red, cheers, V

Oh yeah THAT stupid book...left mine in the "hidey hole and my lift gate leaks and it filled up w/water...it was OOKKEY and smelled real bad when I found it again so right in the bin it went! Waiting on the STD check right now and the mortgage hasta be paid every 2 weeks so I'm on an ostairity program for the moment. Will buy the MAF cleaner when dat check comes and see what sort of difference is made. Curious, what octane rating you running in ur 01? That "stupid" book says mine needs(wants?) 91+...Its a 3.5 with 10:1 compression so my VIN indicates. Im payin $5.46 CAN or $6.90 US per gallon here in the Greater Vancouver area for the good stuff, which is just sick...what are y'all paying per gallon?