Mrelcocko

Round ball Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice write up friend. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Everyday driver and still going strong. 260k+ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Temperature sensor Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They are fairly easy to find in junkyards. I got one for my 97 Quey and bought an extra one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Love the headlights Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The maxima if I’m correct has 3 mounts and it ended up being the one on top of the engine. The bushings in it were toast. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know this is on a totally different vehicle but on my girlfriends 2000 maxima I had a similar sound that you’re describing and it ended up being an engine mount. Hopefully this might help you out some. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Update on both Speedometer and Tachometer. Working like a charm. This is definitely the fix Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Probably so but they would be a higher quality. I’m talking more about the distributors from eBay that run between 50 to 100$ they are trash. I’m going off my experience from buying one off eBay and it not working and buying one from Advanced that worked perfectly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can go for a remanufactured from probably AutoZone or Advance Auto. When it comes to electrical you want to go with oem for sure. Cheap aftermarket’s are a waste of money. I bought a cheapo off of eBay for 60$ and it was trash. Couldn’t get it to work from the start. Good luck friend Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry I didn’t read the rest of your post. Metal shavings Usually means your distributor bearing is going out. Remove the distributor and see if it spins freely. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you find any metal shavings on the inside? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Welcome to NPORA

So here’s a write up about inop jumpy tach and inop speedometer. Remove the 2 screws in pic 1 pull out cluster bezel. Remove 4 cluster screws to remove cluster from vehicle(not pictured)and disconnect 3 connectors plus one small connector for the door chime. Release tabs on top and bottom of cluster to remove clear plastic cover of cluster and bezel as one piece. Next remove 4 screws for Tach and 4 screws for speedometer to remove them. Be careful not to touch your fuel gauge it will not go back to the original location if accidentally touched and moved. Once you have both gauges removed use soldering iron to heat up and melt solder to fix any cracks that may have formed over the past 2 decades. I’ve circled in the pictures marked (speedo-tach)the 12 soldering points on each gauge to reheat. This fix will only work for 96-97 R50s. This is a guaranteed fix for the gauges as I have done 3 now and all three I’ve done this procedure and the problem was gone after completion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use a Wi-Fi Elm 327 adapter and the app I use is Dash Command. Works well with no connectivity issues.

Thanks that’s good to know

I replaced my entire front suspension. Also replaced both axels. I didn’t replace wheel bearings. I replaced inner and outer tie rods, swaybar bushings and links as well. Anything that had to do with the suspension I replaced.

Thank you. I’ve enjoyed every minute with her. A lot of elbow grease, time and money, but she’s been well worth it.

Put a new cheapo Dual deck in. I’ve had her now 6 years and have loved every minute. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

97 Quey with Bosch Oscar fog’s recessed into the grill. Easy add on. The grill is actually still one piece. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk