Mrelcocko

When I turn the (yolk ) if that's what its called,before I put the axels back in it was smooth as silk, afrer I put axels back in is when I hear the grinding noise. I haven't opened the diff yet, but will in the coming week. Probably bearings I'm guessing. What do you think? I got that axle indtalled from the junkyard all I got left to do is hook up brake lines drive shaft and make sure everything's tight and 2 specs. You know your s&%t man I give you kudos on that. You said from the get-go that you didn't think it was the rear differential. I believe your right. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

I'm taking the rear end out tonight and will find out if the rear diff is the problem.Everything has been delayed due to the monsoon that passed through Knoxville the past 24hours. All I have is a covered car port/patio. Finally drying up.I figured instead of trying to put the axles back in, replace the seals and the bearings I just decided to go ahead and get a rear end from Pull-a-part. I can tighten bolts to specs and put things back together easier than changing bearings, replacing seals without the right tools. I messed up I think. I didn't look at the numbers on the plate to make sure the donor a 97 SE 4wd had the same numbers as mine. It does however have the orange sticker (LSD oil only) Did I screw up[mention=30891]Slartibartfast[/mention]? Whats the numbers and letters on the housing represent?106$ out the door. I can take it back and swap if need be. Im also pretty sure my Pathy was hit on the drivers side at one time or another because that's the side that had the rust when I purchased it,it's also the side that the control arm was bad on. And not only that when I upgraded my tail lights I noticed that the tail light on the driver side is an aftermarket tail light so with the rust, aftermarket tail light the LH control arm bushings bad and the paint job flaking I'm pretty sure it was wrecked and hit on the driver side (LH)at one time or another. Would that cause problems later on down the road with the rear diff. I've not done a car fax. I still talk to previous owner and he said it was never wrecked when he owned it. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Lmao me too Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Not too long ago I was underneath my Quey checking things out getting ready to do some undercoating and noticed that there was a wire connected to my exhaust pipe flange then going to one of my heat shields for grounding. I never noticed it before it was kind of a shock to me because I had no idea why that wire would even exist thinking maybe someone put it on not by the factory. So I crawled underneath my Pathfinder to see if there's one on it as well and sure enough it had one too rusted away. Now no question put on by the Nissan. From the research I've done and all the literature I've read there's a lot of people that say you don't need it and then there's a lot of people that say you do need it. I've read that it suppresses electricity that can affect your radio and other electrical components also that it may affect your O2 sensors. I've had a pesky O2 sensor code for quite a while. P0156 Bank 2 sensor 2. My check engine light is usually own due to this code. I just haven't got around to addressing the problem yet. Sometimes the CEL would actually go off on its own but it would come back on eventually. Here's my scenario on the ground wire. I definitely would put it on if you do not have one or if yours is rusted away because since I put mine on, P0156 code has not come back. Whether or not it had anything to do with the CEL being on who knows? It's been 3 weeks and light is still off and no little amber light stareing me in the face. If anyone has any info on this please share. #R50OBSEESED #j.cox I didn't want to take the chance of breaking a nut so I decided to ground mine using a hose clamp and a piece of wire that would be used for a tailgate. So spread the hell out of it with anti seize Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Dang the leaf springs!!.I agree with the noise going away for a bit after messing with the brakes. It does sound like a brake issue. I'm gonna slip the axels back in and check. Can I check the rest of it now without the axels installed. That way I will know for sure it is or isn't the pinion gear or what ever else is inside. Lol. I know nothing about differentials as you can tell. I'm almost positive it's not the brakes, but good point about the sound going away maybe it is a brake problem. I've got to figure this thing out. The wifey is driving the Q to work. Lol thanks for the help bro Sent from

Dang I'd love to have it man finances are tight right now if it was tax time I'd be all for it, never mind the shipping. Around the end of January beginning of February I'll touch base with you to see if there's anything around you available. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Will any xterra diffs work with my 96 Pathy? The junkyard here is full of them. I'm probably just going to replace the whole thing man to be honest with you I'm 100% positive it's not the brakes I've been having issues for the last 6 months with every time I turn the wheel to turn into my driveway into a parking spot and a lot of times going up a hill slow I thought for the longest time that the brakes were grabbing. It literally felt like the brakes were not releasing. I changed Hardware three different times wheel cylinders neither one of them are leaking a drop everything is brand new as far as the brakes go drums pads Springs the Adjusters are not but everything else is. The only time it felt like everything was fine is whenever I would take everything apart and put it back together it seemed like everything was good for maybe the first two or three miles and then it would end up going right back to like it was the grabbing. This past Friday I drove it probably a total of 80 something miles 42 to work the whole way to work I heard a whining sound and the faster I would go the whining would be a little bit higher pitched I worked for 7 hours when I left work is when it was really bad something was grinding. And I was still getting the grabbing feeling I drove it 30 mile an hour home which was 40 miles back to my house that's where I parked it Jack the rear end up took both the axles out and that's where I stand right now. I did however put it in drive with both the wheels off and actually the driver side was really really loud with a grinding sound with the passenger side the grinding sound was there too but it wasn't as bad wish I had them out like I said I had my wife push down on them as hard as she could and that's what I noticed that the driver side was the one that had some resistance and I could hear it the passenger side was smooth when I turned it. I checked the break's over inside the drums all the hardware and stuff and didn't see anything that would give me a reason to believe that something was catching or causing the grinding sound from the brakes. Yeah I've done the whole Shin thing with a trailer hitch myself and now that I've actually dropped a drum on my foot with a pair of slip on Timberlands that have a permanent line across the toe I can compare the two. I'd take shin anyday. I'm not saying that its better or worse,but Id go right now put a pair of shorts on and run into a trailer hitch to get away from what happened to me yesterday. Lol. Omg it hurts to think about it. My dogs went and hid they got really scared because of me they didn't know what the hell was going on. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Lmao. Dude that hurt so bad. It's definitely worse than the shin hitting a trailer hitch. Lol Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

About the weird sound I'm hearing. Today while driving it I started to get a vibration underneath the driver seat and in the steering wheel I read up and decided to check the front driveshaft is it normal for me to be able to push up on it before it goes in to the front diff and have a clicking sound? When I push up on it there it sounds like someone breaking a small piece of plastic like a plastic toothpick or something. I bet that's what my problem is my front drive shaft has issues or my front differential. I tell you what when the s*** hits the fan it hits the fan LOL! I added a picture to show where I'm pushing up at. By the way this is my Pathy in the pic a d not the Q in question. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Yes sir. I loosened and retighend the ground screws,Cleaned the maf sensor and blew inside of dizzy out. Thanks for the help. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

I read it wrong I thought the 6 was a B. It says HG46 your right . what other models carry this rear end. I've already taking the axles out. I can put them back in as easy as they came out? if so I will do the test like you mentioned leaving the drums off. Or can I just remove the driveshaft and turn the rear diff without the axels in to check pinion gear etc.....I know doing this won't let me know if it's a brake problem or not but from what you guys are telling me bearings don't usually go bad. I just can't see how all of a sudden I'm having problems out of it a month later after changing the control arm on drivers side I thought if something wasn't in line it would be adding more stress on the bearings and internal parts of the rear end not being in spec. Like I said the guy that I bought it from I have no idea how long he drove with the bushings out of the control arm on driver side and to beat that the control arm that was on that side was one that had an R on it which I'm assuming is the one that was supposed to go on the passenger side so there was two RH control arms on the rear end don't really know how that happened but it was like that. I didn't know there was a difference in the two because they look the same to me other than stamp with L or R. Please don't think I'm trying to say you guys are wrong in telling me that bearings can't go bad because of suspension problems. I don't want you to think that I'm just just saying in theory. What kind of problems can bad suspension cause other than handling and tire wear? Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

I dropped my rear drum on my foot last night. Broke my toe. Hurt so bad I cried. #butterfingers Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Okay guys here's an update I went by my dad's put the scan tool on it everything checked out just fine. Timing was at 15 degrees every now and again it would go to 13 probably every 15-20 seconds during this is was missing as well.RPMs we're between 750 and 800 which is in criteria. checked everything under the bottom and didn't see anything that would cause noise that I could tell. On the way home from my dad's I kind of heard a slight humming sound sounded like it was coming from the front left maybe a bearing there I don't know. I'm going to put the cover back on for the front of the engine to see if that takes care of the noise. I tested each plug wire and they all tested out by the FSM just fine. I took the mass airflow sensor out cleaned it used an air hose and blew out the connections a lot of dust and debris came out also I blew the distributor out and a lot of fine gray toxic stuff filled my lungs, lol. Lossened all the ground screws retighend and tightened up my power steering belt it looks like the culprit as far as the miss was a plug wire. I think that explains why the voltmeter was jumping like it was correct me if I'm wrong. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

I just want to take a minute and say that you guys really really are awesome people although I've never met any of you in person I feel like I know some of you it seems to me like you guys really do care and in this day in age that means a lot thank you so much. I did take the cover off from under the front of the engine because I had dropped some sockets down there and the only way for me to get them out was to take that off maybe that's what's causing the noise up front but I don't have it on my pathfinder and my pathfinder doesn't do it. Who knows I'll find out when I put it back on later tonight. Here's another thought could it be the fuel pump going out? Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Man I would love to I want to get hey grill guard / bull guard whatever it's called for my pathfinder and my QX4. I really want the one for my QX4 because it's the same color as the body. I don't understand why those options wasn't available over here the headlight option I understand that's because of the DOT but other things I don't understand. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Definitely not trying to be a smarta$$, but I've been using hashtags on here for most of my residency. #IreallydontknowhowtoanswerthatLOL Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Maybe mount something where I've got the clock. Back when I had my 98 Pathfinder I installed a 2inch oil pressure gauge beside my cruise control,security light and dimmer switches. I had a picture somewhere, but can't find it. I've always liked analog gauges. Wished Nissan would've put a full gauge cluster in the R50. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Thanks for remembering about the multiple misfire codes back then the fix on that was a timing belt had been put on wrong by the previous owner. Once I replaced the timing belt and got around to putting the new injectors in it it was like a brand new car purred like a kitten what I'm feeling now is worse then what I felt back then and it's not throwing any codes at all I'm about to head over to my dad's house he's got a really nice scan tool that can read live data fuel trims what should I be looking for?This really just came out of nowhere. I took the distributor apart last night to see if there were any shavings inside and I didn't see any so the distributor going bad scenario is out. I'm lost. Can the transmission cause a misfire? I can't believe no CEC's Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

The only hard shift is from first to second, a light jerk. It's always done that. I did notice when pressing the throttle to hit the passing gear(down shift) it's a little reluctant than before causing me to have to press the gas down just a little bit more, but within the past 24 hours it's back to normal when downshifting to pass. Knock sensor is in factory location. I can't believe it's not throwing any codes either for the missing because it's definitely a miss I can feel it at idle when cruising and something else looking at my Volt gauge whenever it does miss the gauge goes along with the miss. From 14v to12v back to14v to12v. It's got brand new injectors timing belt, tensioner,water pump ,valve cover gaskets,fuel filter, Nissan TSB adding ground wire. I'm at a loss. Check the trans fluid and its pink reading the entire dipstick. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Thanks man, appreciate it. #R50OBSEESED Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

I'm not 100% sure it is the bearing. While having both axels on the ground and applying as much pressure as my wife can pushing down I turned the pass side axel and its smooth no restriction, drivers side no restriction but as opposed to the pass side I can hear it when its turning. Before I took the axels out I jacked the rear up put it in drive and listened and from what I can tell grinding coming from drivers side. I'll find out for sure once I get in to the pinion gear later this evening and see what's going on there. You guys definitely seem to know what your talking about. From your alls experiences what normally goes in the rear ends givin it was taken care of and not taken of? Im pretty sure I'm just gonna replace the entire rear end but not sure what I'm gonna do yet. Appreciate the help guys. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Bosch gauge cluster-Oil Pres, Volts,Temp #R50OBSEESED Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Came in the mail today. Another brochure to the collection. #R50OBSEESED Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

How hard is it to replace the drivers side outside bearing? Do I need to replace all the bearings? Up until a month ago when I replaced the driver side bottom control arm the one that attaches to the bottom of the frame under the driver seat floorboard I had a bad clucking sound because the control arm bushings were toast. I drove it like that for a year just because of financial purposes and had other things that were more important. There's no telling how long the bushings were out of it causing the rear end to be shifted. I'm sure that put some kind of strain on the axle bearings in the rear now that I've fixed the control arm and pretty much have the rear end back where it's supposed to be do you guys think that has caused my bearing issue? Nevertheless I've got to get these bearings replaced because this is my wife's daily driver the question that I'm asking is this. Would it be easier for me to replace the bearings or just go to my local Pull A Part grab a rear end and just replace the whole thing myself I'm thinking it would be easier just to go to Pull-A-Part and grab a rear end and I know definitely it would be a lot cheaper on me I can't see just replacing one bearing and not going ahead and replacing all of them and as you guys know those bearings are not cheap I think they run close to $90 a piece. HG4B is what's on my vin plate. Can someone tell me what rear end that is referring to? I do have the orange sticker saying use only LSD oil so I'm assuming I have the limited slip differential. I don't know the first thing about rear differentials. What would you guys recommend? Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Changing the trans fluid Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk