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What did you do to your Pathfinder today?


RedRider3141
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I bought the Equus electric model. $50. Only thing additional is the wire to hook it up. The send has another prong so you can hook up your stock oil pressure dummy light to it. I'm still trying to find where my wire is to test it.

 

Our VG30e reads 9 PSI at idle and I think 55-65 psi at 3200 RPMS no load.

I'm running a z31 oil pump that is suppose create more oil pressure (FSM states 11 PSI at idle) but I do not think the pump itself is doing that so probably using the pump was just a waste (the timing belt covers and water pumps do not fully seal the timing belt--mix and match parts)

my 3.3 idles about 25 and will go up to about 50

I'm running all Autometer gauges water temp oil pressure and auto tranny temp

Edited by vagabond
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don't know the model # but it's the 2 inch electric

when I had the 3'0 in it it would run about 28 and idle at about 5 had a little over 350.000 on it

the 3'3 is a JDM engine

Edited by vagabond
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Cleaned the mold out of it finally and started to take the front diff off. Drivers side 12mm bolts stopped me since they are on too tight and I don't want to strip the dang things. Sprayed liquid wrench on them and the exhaust manifold bolts. Hopefully it doesn't rain while I'm working on it this weekend.

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Installed some Vision X 1156A LEDs in my turn signals. Got tired of a slight rattle from my catalytic converter barely touching a cross member so I welded a new exhaust hanger on. Also had a slight rattle from my Hi-Lift jack handle when hitting bumps, so I took off the Hi-Lift brand handle keeper and put on a Daystar Handle keeper. Much quieter now.

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Found out why I've had a steering wheel vibration and poor gas mileage.... One manual hub was locked in. I'm an idiot!!!

Had a buddy complain of horrible steering for about 2 months in his old pickup, until I noticed one of his hubs was locked in. He was a little pissed. :lol:

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I installed a snorkel today and only used 1 elbow! This is the snorkel you'll find on ebay for about $200. For anyone looking at these I HIGHLY recommend paying a couple extra $$ and getting the one with a template. I'll make an install thread on this later in the week when I take more pictures. Enjoy!

 

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Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

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Ok all, I'm back again. I have a couple of questions... I'm replacing my outer tie rod ends on my 94 Pathy because it has the beginnings of the death wobble (upon inspection, the passenger side moves quite a bit when turning the wheel back and forth, driver's moves only a tiny bit, but I'm going to do them both just to be smart. :clap: ) and I am also replacing the front stabilizer end links and bushings because the links keep working loose and the bushings there are shot.

 

So, here come the dumb question... are the outer tie rod ends measured the same on both sides? (In other words, can I take the driver's side off and use it's setting on the passenger side also?) I can't afford to take it to get an alignment, but it's definitely not safe to drive without the replacements, so I want to get it as close to where it should be as I can. Also, any tips for self-alignment would be welcomed! :D

 

Side question...Does anyone know where I can find a list of all of the bolt torque specs for the whole truck? I could create my own I guess, but I really don't have the time to comb through the service manual to find them all and write them down.

Edited by VHerring
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Put the new ones in so the same number of threads are sticking out as the old ones. Mark the old ones before removing them with paint pen, transfer the marks to the new one and thread it in. Then check toe to verify.

 

http://www.allpar.com/fix/alignment.html

The link tells you how to check toe, and is way easier then me typing it out on my phone.

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Banged some more rust off of the under side of the rear seats and going tomorrow to pick up an 01' CC frontier. If it doesn't rain I'll be remove the rear seats and cutting rust out in prep for a storage area

 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

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Ok all, I'm back again. I have a couple of questions... I'm replacing my outer tie rod ends on my 94 Pathy because it has the beginnings of the death wobble (upon inspection, the passenger side moves quite a bit when turning the wheel back and forth, driver's moves only a tiny bit, but I'm going to do them both just to be smart. :clap: ) and I am also replacing the front stabilizer end links and bushings because the links keep working loose and the bushings there are shot.

 

So, here come the dumb question... are the outer tie rod ends measured the same on both sides? (In other words, can I take the driver's side off and use it's setting on the passenger side also?) I can't afford to take it to get an alignment, but it's definitely not safe to drive without the replacements, so I want to get it as close to where it should be as I can. Also, any tips for self-alignment would be welcomed! :D

 

Side question...Does anyone know where I can find a list of all of the bolt torque specs for the whole truck? I could create my own I guess, but I really don't have the time to comb through the service manual to find them all and write them down.

Set the steering wheel straight. Get a yard stick or something long and straight and tape it to the side wall of a tire. Tie some makeshift plumbs to the end. Mark the ground. Tape measure and extend the points on the rear tires all the way past the front tires. You can figure out the rest lol. That's one way of doing it.
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Rotated tires to see if the wobble in the steering moves. Then I will know if it is a bent rim or bad tire. Sealed the windshield again, hopefully it fixed the leak. Checked the frame for rust, it looks nearly new.

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Got an alignment done today, amazing how that'll clear up like half the rattles and creaks a vehicle makes. Also slapped some paint on the rear end and made a little bit of a dent in the front bumper. In crappier news, another new sound has developed now that the rear U joints have been changed. I'm thinking throwout bearing or maybe transfer case and differential angle conflict but those are just guesses. Symptoms are brief grinding/chafing noises at highway speeds while decelerating by just letting off the gas, and constant loud grinding/chafing noises while depressing the clutch that do not go away. It sounds similar to a brake pad rubbing, just worse.

 

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Pulled front diff and took off exhaust manifold. Sprayed bolts down for tomorrow and greased the rear passenger door lock that kept getting stuck. Mold is already coming back pretty hard after just two weeks so I kept my window cracked since no rain this weekend. Gonna take off the torsion bars tomorrow and I'll be all ready for vg33 to go in

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