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Everything posted by PathyAndTheJets

  1. Dove into re wiring the rats nest that was my radio. Got rid of all the twisted together wires, put a speaker in the passenger door, and got the equalizer working for the first time since I've owned it. Huge improvement, going to make my commute a lot better. Next weekend I'm going to install the other speaker in the drivers door.
  2. I've got Kenda Klever A/Ts on my pathfinder currently, the BFGs on 10 inch wide wheels were a little rough on the highway, so I swapped the stock wheels off of my pickup. They're just 235/75/15s but they seem to handle well and I haven't had any issues with wear or traction. They did really well in the snow on my truck with open diffs, better than the BFG A/Ts on the Path. I would say for the price, they're a solid choice. I know a couple of guys in the local offroad group that run the M/Ts and I haven't heard any complaints about them.
  3. My brother has those on his '87 and on his '01 X, he likes them a lot. They do well in the snow too. Been on my list for a while, Probably going to be my next purchase.
  4. Left is driver's side. Right is passenger side. Always.
  5. You can always screw in some old f series mirrors. Have those on my 720. Never seen them on a D21 or Pathfinder.
  6. You should be able to remove your locking hub and pull off a snap ring to allow the CV to slide out. That's the only thing that retains it, so I don't know how it could get stuck.
  7. Replaced the crank seal for hopefully the last time. Made a seal protector out of an aerosol can cap, worked perfectly. Another new timing belt since the other one got soaked in oil. Hopefully I don't have to get in there again until 330k! Now for some cleaning and organizing. Hopefully will be picking up a bigger tool box next week.
  8. There are two different Lego wheels. The early ones had mag or shank style lug nuts, later ones had hardened inserts that used standard taper lug nuts. All center caps are interchangeable. They're all 15x7 and same offset.
  9. Installed new drivers window regulator. Should've done that a long time ago. No more broken window Crank handles.
  10. EGR is only active at part throttle, basically cruising speeds. Under load it shuts off, shuts off at idle. Not worth the work to remove the tubes. Unhook and plug the vacuum line to the valve if you feel like you'll get any horses out of bypassing it. Pcv keeps your engine clean. Leave it alone. Replace the valve occasionally. Putting breathers on it just makes a mess. Catch can isn't a bad idea though, especially on worn engines with a lot of blow by. If the equipment functions properly, you won't gain anything by removing or modifying it.
  11. I've found it depends on location. When I was working on mine when I got it in Colorado. Most stuff was on hand at the hub store. Here in MN almost every part is a day out. I've just gotten used to getting everything I think I need in advance and returning what a don't use, or replacing it anyway because it's got almost 270k miles on it.
  12. Serviced my manual hubs, cleaned and lubed up brake hardware. Replaced skid plate bolts with flanged head bolts. Bought a window regulator so I stop breaking Crank handles.
  13. It's a code for a vacuum bypass valve. Which opens up at certain conditions to check the integrity of the evap system. Vacuum supply hoses should be inspected for cracks/leaks, repair if found. Check connections, power to the connector should not exist with engine off. It may toggle on/off when ignition is turned on. Remove valve and blow through it. If you can blow through it, replace it. Valve is stuck open. If unable to blow through it, bench test it with a battery. Should click when energized, and you should be able to blow through it. Replace if it doesn't open.
  14. There is no issue from switching back and forth from synthetic to conventional oil. Old seals might leak with synthetic, but thats it. I usually run rotella T5 synthetic blend diesel oil or a high mileage syn blend. Cleans up the sludge pretty well. High zinc oil is good for our flat tappet engines. Valvoline VR1 or Amsoil ZRod.
  15. What are we calling a puddle? I feel like a puddle is like less than 4 inches deep. I'm assuming we're going through water close to hub height or deeper. My guess is that you're getting water in the distributor. Try some dielectric grease in the plug wire boots, and wipe some silicone grease on the o ring on the dizzy base where the cap seals. Water crossings should be slow and steady. Just enough momentum to keep you going, but not so much that you're making a huge splash.
  16. About a good inch and a half of tread sticks out, throws mud all over the side. I got a set of fender flares, but I'm not quite sure how the back ones mount yet. Haven't really looked, but the front mount through the tabs on the fender, but there aren't any on the back.
  17. Put some 15x10 turbines on it, tires poke a bit. Started referring to it as the "Stancefinder"
  18. FWIW my alternator puts out 14.1 at idle. Generally alternators put out the same voltage, but vary the duty cycle to put out the amperage. You can get the alt bench tested at like any autopart store for free. Also the pull the positive when it's running trick doesn't work well on anything newer than like 67. Had to have a generator.
  19. I bit the bullet and bought a new one. 165 bucks. Got it in and the timing set. Definitely idles smoother. Haven't had a chance to take it for a spin. Iirc the MPFI dizzy is different than the TBI. The offer is much appreciated.
  20. Got my hands on an oscilloscope today, TPS checked out perfectly, no dead spots, hooked up to crank signal, got a couple of funky waveforms intermittently that matched up with my stumble. Also was getting wandering in the primary coil waveform.
  21. Caster is hard to check by the DIYer. Camber and toe are fairly easy to eyeball. Toe you can do at home, camber can be done too, you just need the shims. Personally, I'd find a good shop in town to do it. You can get a pull in the steering if you don't compensate for the thrust angle of the rear end, the newer laser machines do that for you, so you'll end up with a good alignment if the tech is decent. You may try asking some of the parts guys who seem to have a clue about who in town does good alignments. Local car clubs may have the scoop as well.
  22. Currently has a small miss at idle, then if racing the engine it'll seem to cut out and drop about 2-300 rpm and then pick up. Almost like it's hitting a rev limiter, but slower and more intermittent. MAF checked out within spec, as did both injectors. No codes. Cleaned out the idle solenoids, looked clean but sprayed them out anyway. EGR didn't seem to be stuck.
  23. Sounds like the timing belt jumped. Try shining your timing light from the bottom of the crank pulley... Can you find the marks with the engine stopped? Mark them with a red marker or white out. You need spark, fuel, and compression to run the engine. You verified that you're getting spark, and the TBI is spraying fuel. So either your valves are out of phase with the crank, or you've had a serious mechanical failure. I assume it's not banging around as you crank it, so I'm leaning towards the timing belt jumping.
  24. What are the tell tale signs of a failing distributor? I've got a hunch that it might be my issue, but I don't have a lab scope to check the signal. I saw one thread about pulling the dizzy out and spinning it to check the bearings.

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