PathyAndTheJets

I initially got it as a winter beater, keep the 84 out of the salt. I just runs so fskcn good, and drives nice, that I couldn't just let it rot out. They grow on you, like a fungus.

Guaranteed its a c200, its out of the rear axle of my Pickup. Granted, Nissan probably updated the carrier for later models.

This is an open C200 carrier, for reference

I'm unsure of the transmission stuff. I think I've seen X Terra transmissions swapped in. Nissan doesn't usually have nitpicky production date crap. Are you buying gas charged shocks? I've noticed that the cheap ones blow out quick. Had 8k on one set and they turned out to be junk. Maybe try an old style oil shock, like ranchos. They're a little stiffer ride but seem to be holding up better in my experience.

Generally when differentials go out they're pretty noisy. I'm 100% that your hubs are bad. Z24 would be 27 spline axles, IIRC, so you should be able to pull some manual lockers off an 80s D21 truck in a boneyard. Double check your spline count before you go hunting though.

I think I see springs in that carrier, probably LSD.

Open diff transfers power to the wheel with the least resistance. Sounds like your driver's side hub is shot. Pick up some mile marker hubs for it. Yes you wouldn't get power to the front, your driver's CV isn't locked into the hub to make the wheel turn.

If you pull up the passenger seat, there's a cover on the ECU pull that off. Its 3 Phillips head screws, IIRC. There's a little switch on the back to put it into diagnostic mode. The LEDs will flash. Red is tens green is ones.

Might want to grab a couple. It's a pretty common thing.

I pop the door panel off on the winter and tape some cardboard on the back of the door card. I like the little breeze in the summer so i take it back out.

They may share a fusable link. Check for loose or burnt wires off the battery positive cable.

That shouldn't affect your idle. I ran mine without it for several months. It is just a pre-heater pipe to allow warm air into the engine when it is cold out to improve fuel vaporization. What kind of idling issues is it having?

Depends on your skill. And on how much rust you have to deal with. I'd plan on like 4 hours. Brush up on packing and adjusting tapered wheel bearings.

Pathfinder's are pretty good about not warping rotors. That's caused by the rotor being at a slight angle on the hub due to rust. Then it develops thin spots on the high point. That's what you feel in the pedal. More of a problem with vehicles that the rotor sits on the front of the hub. Since the Pathfinder rotor is bolted to the hub it gets centered by the tapered wheel bearings, so as long as that mating surface is clean you shouldn't have much of anything for lateral run-out. I measured mine for a brake systems lab for class and came out with perfect thickness variation (no difference between 4 separate spots on the rotor) and zero lateral run-out as measured with a dial indicator. But while you've got the hub off I'd get a new inner hub seal and clean and repack the bearings.

Could be the IAC is kinda plugged up. Maybe the MAF

Is it green? One of them is for the mixture heater and probably blew when it shorted out.

Tire size affects the overall final drive ratio. Bigger tires=lower ratio=lower RPM. i mean lower numerically, as it is technically a higher ratio. But these rigs came with 4.375 differential gearing. Maybe 4.675 depending on the options. That means for every 4.675 turns of the driveshaft, the wheels turn once. Generally, domestic trucks get like 3.50 or 2.70 depending on engine and options. The bigger your tires, the less RPM you need to go a certain speed. As for the rpms being high, I'm unsure about what correct is. But you may want to make sure your torque converter is locking. A 94 is a 4 speed auto, so you should see 4 distinct drops in rpm when it shifts, probable around 1000rpm or so drop. Then when you get up to highway speeds you should see one more of roughly 200rpm when the converter locks up. If it isn't locking, I'd avoid highway speeds, or 4th gear since it should be overdrive, and it will generate excessive heat and potentially damage the transmission.

Water does a decent job.

Get rubber gasket paper from your local auto parts store. Cut them to the right shape.

Check your connections and get them nice and clean, then you might try pulling the motor apart and clean up the commutator. 20 years of arcing might have carboned up a bit. The windings themselves might be damaged though, so a new motor would be the most time effective option.

The set of cheapie Monroe's I had on my 720 lasted maybe 8k miles.

Most parts stores should sell fuel filler hose. Just get some of that and clamp it on. You'll need to know the diameter though.

The bottom pin moved with the door, hence why the torch came out. Lol

Ever see an engine with a bad head gasket? A couple pistons will be spotless. It works, probably better than seafoam. You run the risk of knocking a big chunk of carbon out and damaging things though.

Maybe lay a nice bead of silicone, but let it dry before installing so it makes a thicker gasket? Then it won't stick every time you have to remove the cover. You could use a washer and rubber o-ring for the wing nuts on the top, If you wanted to make that super-skookum you could use Viton o-rings so they're fuel resistant as well, but I think the standard Buna o-ring should work, I doubt the cover would have much fuel spraying on it. But on that note you might want the orange fuel resistant RTV for the inner gaskets. Don't forget to waterproof your dizzy cap as well. I hear WD-40 works for that, but I have no experience with it.