PathyAndTheJets

Put on new calipers and brake hoses, then topped off the refrigerant. Full charge of r12 now.

How full is the master cylinder? If it's pretty low it might flicker around corners because the fluid sloshed away from the float for the level sensor. The clutch interlock switch also turns the brake light on. Maybe that's broke and making contact?

Anything suspension. Shocks, clean out strut rod bushings, make sure the strut rod mounting hardware is tight, sway bar links.

Clutch type limited slip is locked in until breakaway torque is reached. Which is about 120ftlbs on wd21s? So on dry pavement around corners the clutches will slip and allow the wheels to turn at different speeds.

Cranked the torsion bars back up to a little higher than stock and aligned it. What a difference an inch makes.

It works. It requires a bit of practice, but basically it's trying to even out the resistance so you can spin both tires rather than just one. If anything it saves wear on the diff since the spider gears aren't spinning nearly as fast. Another trick if you're just a one wheel wonder is to threshold throttle. You give it gas until you lose traction on that wheel, then back off till you get it back, then repeat until moving. Works well in the snow. A locking device is going to out perform those methods though.

I'd use por-15 then paint over it with whatever paint you'd like. I've had good luck with vht rollbar and chassis paint.

Got the T-bar soaking in some penetrating oil in prep for re indexing to correct the sag.

Most people don't realize how much pressure is in a brake system. Upwards of 2000 psi under hard braking. I don't recommend the copper ez bend lines either. I see them blow the fittings off fairly frequently. I also see a lot of people fix lines with compression fittings, which also are labeled on the package not for automotive brake system use. I understand that flaring line is a pain, bending it is a hassle, but I wouldn't want to rely on a compression fitting rated for maybe 700psi to stop 4,000 pounds of vehicle in an emergency situation.

My buddies Pathfinder went full rich after some oil from his k&n filter got on it and started catching crud. Cleaned it, ran beautifully again. But that may be because a liquid was on the wire rather than dry substances.

Fouled Maf should run rich, it's a hot wire MAF right? Gunk requires more amps to keep the wire hot, tricks PCM into thinking there's lots of air flow, throws mixture rich.

I bet it's the same, but there is a residual pressure check valve somewhere in the line for drum systems.

Yeah, if you take off the air cleaner housing, the mass air flow is screwed into the side of the throttle body. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/23251-tbi-component-listing-loctaions/?do=findComment&comment=772279

Yeah they use them for universal drain plugs after the quick lube monkey strips out the pan.

Make sure you replace the races. It's easy, you'll want to buy a brass drift to get them out. The brass won't scratch or dent anything. You can drive them in the same way as well, alternating sides so it goes in evenly. You'll also need a new inner wheel seal. The old race works well for driving that in. You also want to fill the void between the outer races with wheel bearing grease. You'll need a spanner wrench to adjust the wheel bearing as well.

The drums should be adjusted to drag slightly. You should feel some resistance, and hear the shoes making a shhhhft sound as you turn the wheel. The brakes auto adjust as you apply the parking brake as well.

What weight of oil did you use? No oil leaks? I've noticed on my pickup that I have lower oil pressure with synthetic, I swapped it out for the same weight of synthetic blend and the oil pressure stays at 30-45 psi while running. You might try changing to a high mileage oil, either Castrol or Valvoline. They're both syn blends. The molecules of synthetic are smaller than a conventional oil, so the oil tends to get squeezed out the sides of worn bearings.

Double down

Just be sure to pull the coil wire off of the dizzy before you test. Compression readings should be within 15 percent. If you have a low cylinder, put a bit of oil in it. If the reading jumps up significantly, your rings are the issue. If not, you may have a leaky valve.

You could buy a compression tester for like 30 bucks at an auto parts store.

New ball joints and CV shaft time. The old one was pretty blown out. New parts!

Try swapping a wire from a good cylinder and see if the issue follows it. Any carbon tracking or erosion on the cap or rotor?

You might try a spray like DeOxit on it. I use it on my guitars all the time. It cleans and protects from future corrosion. Got the scratchy sound out of the potentiometers.

The 9004 bulb is a dual filament bulb. The low beam filament is out. Replace it, or swap the bulb from the other side and see if it follows. Or take the bulb out and look at it. You will see the little wire broken.

I just removed the compressor on my 84 pickup when I pulled the engine. Tied it off to the side with some wire. Lines were fine.