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PathyAndTheJets

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Everything posted by PathyAndTheJets

  1. The fuzz on the magnet is normal. Automatic transmission fluid is red. Manual transmission fluid is usually a gear oil, which resembles a thick motor oil. For these trucks you need to get a GL4 gear oil. Not GL5/GL4. The GL5 destroys the syncros. Based on the Teflon tape it's been replaced.
  2. The point of a gasket is to seal. I prefer rubber gaskets, but the paper ones will seal if they're properly prepared.
  3. The timing belts changed in 93 if memory serves me correctly. Pull the crank and cam sprockets off and transfer them over so you get the better timing belt design.
  4. I usually skip the sealant goo. A couple dabs of weather strip adhesive to hold the gasket to the pump, set it on something flat to keep the gasket set, clean up the surface real nice, install. Torque fasteners to spec. Haven't had any leaks. I don't like risking a chunk of rtv clogging something up. Worked wonders with the thermostat.
  5. Make sure it's full of transmission fluid. Check while running in park. Not super familiar with the Pathfinder autos, but if it's a cable actuated throttle valve I'd make sure it's not binding, and that it's adjusted. Did the loss of power feel like it went into neutral, or it was slipping? Or was it bogging? It sounds much more like a transmission or engine issue. It's hard to screw up a transfer case. Assuming it has fluid.
  6. Let me start by explaining drive line wind up. When you go around a corner, your wheels turn at different speeds, as they travel in separate arcs, which is why automobiles have differentials. In 2wd, the front wheels are free to roll as they please. But when you drop it into 4x4, a gear is engaged and the front driveshaft now receives 50% of the available torque, the other half of transferred to the rear wheels. The driveshafts can only spin at the same speed as they are effectively locked together. So, when you turn, the front wheels take a wider arc than the rear, therefore they have to travel at a different speed. With the drive shafts locked together, the wheels cannot rotate at different speeds. Then the drive train components act like a torsion spring, storing energy until the force exceeds the traction of the tires, and it "crow hops" or a component fails. That torsional force can make it extremely difficult to take the transfer case out of gear, as the engagement sleeve is being forced against the gear teeth. If you Jack up the wheels, the torsional force is released, and the lever should move as normal.
  7. Generally they are very reliable. I've seen shoelaces and bailing wire used in a pinch to limp home. I wouldn't recommend doing that for a long period, as the clutch is designed to slip at a certain rpm to reduce stress on the fan.
  8. The radiator cap is designed to hold about 13 lbs of pressure. More than that and the spring compresses and vents excess fluid into the overflow. Pressure is caused by heat, so when it cools off the cap allows the coolant to be pulled back in from the overflow. Older cars used to just let it spill on the ground and you'd just need to top it off occasionally. I'm not sure if the 90-95s have the bleeder tee in the upper rad hose, but I've had good luck topping off the coolant with that to get the air out. Didn't require a system bleed the last time I did it. If you haven't gotten a new radiator cap yet, I recommend it. The seal is going to be covered in that rusty junk.
  9. Manual or automatic? By lost power, did the engine bog down or did it Rev up but didn't speed up the vehicle. My first thought is it's the clutch if it's a manual. 4lo might be multiplying a slipping clutches torque enough to get moving. You should still be able to push the stick out of 4low, unless you drove it home like that. You might need to Jack up the wheels to let the drive line unwind in that case.
  10. When your Jeep owning buddy is amazed that you don't get death wobble on a bumpy bit of road. Then seriously questions if he should sell the jeep. (Happened last night)
  11. Most ford guys ask for motorcraft from my experience.
  12. Did you bench bleed the master? If not you may still have some air stuck in there. For checking the clutch I've always been told to stomp it to the boards and row through the gears quickly. Like 4th gear at 20 mph and watch to see if your RPMs rise faster than you're accelerating.
  13. Front of the trans on the passenger side. It screws in and kinda sucks to get at. I think it's 18mm? 3/4 fits good enough though. I could only get to mine with a stubby wrench.
  14. Manual or auto? Sounds like since it flashed, the switch is probably worn out. In the manual it's the closest switch to the front. 15 bucks at your local parts house. Auto? It's probably part of the range sensor, and may be able to be cleaned. New range sensors are usually a spendy item. Probably looking at 100+.
  15. Do you have an Advance Auto parts? It'd be 118 bucks roughly. They're probably a week out though. It is 100 bucks plus tax if they have a set in the warehouse.
  16. I can get a set of MM for 95 bucks through work. Looks like I found my next upgrade.
  17. Iridiums really only last longer. The change interval is like 90,000 miles for some vehicles. NGK V Powers or G-Powers are the most economical. If we were talking 00s F150s or something front wheel drive, v6 or v8, absolutely iridium plugs. You don't want to do it again in the lifetime of the vehicle.
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