PathyAndTheJets

Do you have a orange tag on your rear diff? Or if you jack the back end up in the air and try to turn the wheels they don't turn in gear, and in neutral they turn the same way, you have a LSD. Put gl5 limited slip in it. Doesn't matter if it's not a LSD, won't hurt anything. Semi synthetic, synthetic, conventional, doesn't matter. The Gl4 has to be GL4. Not GL5/GL4, gl4. I think only Napa has it in stock.

Normal driving condition for most manufactures is: Highway only on a day no hotter than 80 degrees F, on dry level ground, with a slight Eastern breeze, holding a steady speed of 55 and 3/8 mph. I'm exaggerating of course, but I've never seen anyone meet the normal driving requirements.

I mean you could... But why? It won't hurt anything, but is unnecessary.

Do you have an owner's manual? All the info is in there. Is it a manual transmission? Usually you want to run a gear oil, but some gearboxes do use ATF as well. If it has brass syncros, you need to use a GL4 rated gear oil. The parts store guys will say that the GL5 will work, they are wrong. Pennzoil makes a synchromesh fluid, Royal Purple 75w90 is yellow metal safe, and Amsoil makes a synchromesh oil.

It's like 3.8quarts with a filter change. I just dump my gallon of Rotella in there and call it good. I thought it was interesting that in the owners manual it tells you to change the filter every other oil change. *at least on my 88 it does.

I remember the Toyota 3vze (3. Slow) having the tiniest little filter ever. Like two inches tall and like 3 in diameter.

IIRC, Nissan calls for Pennzoil 80w90 LSD. Any 80w90 with limited slip additives should be fine. You can also just use 80w90 and add a tube of LSD additive. Ask about fluid for a "posi" rear end. They're probably Chevy guys and call all limited slips Positraction. If it's leaking out the fill plug it's over full. It's good practice to use a thread sealing tape or compound on your plugs. If using tape, be sure to get oil resistant type, and wrap it opposite of the way the plug tightens, i.e. wrap the threads counter clockwise since the plug tightens clockwise. That way the tape doesn't just unravel when the plug is installed.

Got my spoiler and third brake light installed.

I finished soldering up my headlight upgrade harness, and installed it. Ended up with a lazy eye, relocated a ground and got both lights shining bright. Can't wait to see the difference tonight.

Picked up a new 4wd switch from Nissan today. Got it installed, and now a have that nice green light. Probably a waste of 35 bucks... but I can't stand broken stuff.

If the transmission is the same besides the bellhousing, you can swap that over to fit. Super common trick for the earlier fs5w71 transmissions so you could get the better gear ratios out of z cars. You should be able to use what you've got on a VG, if you used the factory manifolds on the z24 then that carb should just bolt up. Or was the z24 still carbed in Australia? Then you may need an adaptor plate fabricated if they changed the intake manifold between the carbed and fuel injected z24s.

Replaced my cardboard battery mounting spacer with shorter j bolts. Looks better

Need more engine pics. That looks like an L-series dizzy to me. I have a hard time believing that is factory, I don't know why they'd use an inferior ignition system on it. Overseas got fuel injection and turbos before the US market. But he got points at his parts store, which means they have it in their systems. I'm baffled. I think the coil gets power when the points are closed. Then it transforms it and sends it to the rotor, wires, plugs, and then ground.

I thought all z24s were with 8 plugs not 4. The z20 and z18s were the only ones with 4 plugs IIRC. And like I said, I've never seen a Datsun or Nissan motor after 76 with points.

Points? Sure enough, points and condenser. That doesn't have HEI? Nissan did away with points in 1976 in the states.

I gave her a good washing and then decided to bed line my skid plate since I had it off to replace the starter.

88 Pathfinder XE 262,000 miles, original engine and tranny.

IIRC they tell you not to pack them with grease. I imagine a light coating of wheel bearing grease wouldn't hurt anything. Perhaps the plastic they use is sensitive to petroleum grease? Maybe a silicone brake grease would be better. Drop the metal parts in evapo rust for a afternoon. Should clean them right up.

Painted the bumper today. Probably will do the rear when I can get it off to straighten it out better.

Put on a new exhaust preheater hose. Got a optima for it, but the j bolts are too long. Temporary fix until I can find the right length. Got my decal put on! Thanks fleurys!

Picked up a replacement for 50 bucks. The other side got sanded, the rust pitting filled and painted with the closest paint I could find. Is that an original alternator I see? Not sure if I should be concerned or impressed. Original radiator hoses?! Engine shots

Figured it was time to get out of the new people section. I bought my Pathfinder in June for 500 bucks. It had 260k on it, 4 bald tires, and wouldn't idle. She looked like this. The first order of business was to replace the throttle body. Probably could have cleaned it, but as a proper Nissan enthusiast, there was a new one sitting on the shelf. I also pulled off that stupid dirt catching trim. Got it running well, and put decent rubber under it. Got new sway bar links and shocks all around. After the mechanicals were taken care of, it was time to replace the Swiss cheese fender and fix the rust on the other.

Definitely sounds like a voltage reg. It really should never go above 15 to 15.5v. You'll need a new alternator. I don't hear great things about remanufactured ones, so I'd get a used one or new if you can.

Beat my bumper back into shape, and did a little cleaning.

Replaced some retaining clips, meant to give it a good chassis greasing. Ran out of daylight.