RCWD21

The 26 psi is the spec for that vehicle. The 44 psi is the max pressure at the max rated load for those tires. Stick close to 26 psi and you'll be just fine. If you feel 26 is a bit too soft then you can bump the pressure up a few psi and see how it does. But be sure to check your tire tread wear pattern to make sure you're getting even wear across the face of the tread.

I have 6 remaned injectors coming in from rockauto hopefully Monday that I'm going to install and hopefully it'll solve all of my issues. At this point everything but the TPS and ECU will have been swapped. My crappy Chinese injectors were too rich, these used oem ones seem to be lean, and hopefully the rockauto ones will be right on the money lol

Its gotten so bad on there. And I'll try a link to my post and I have another video I took this morning of how the vg33 injectors are doing. Fb link: https://m.facebook.com/groups/NPORA/permalink/10160270193930129/?mibextid=Nif5oz Here's a link to the vid from this morning. To add to things, there's no dark smoke or smell of flooding with fuel. Just a touch rich from the engine being cold still. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/fwsawa9etzw9zcgdddj2y/20230814_091321.mp4?rlkey=pwg3zgcgyribpy2b17wf9bwry&dl=0

The light flashes about the same speed as the turn signals do maybe a touch slower. I have a video of it but obviously can't post it on here. The donor vehicle was a 91 and I've been through the entire harness adding in intermittent wipers and cruise control and removing ABS and the rear door wiring. I never modified the engine side of the harness except for the vg33 injector connectors. I did post the vid in the NPORA group on fb though. As for the injectors I replaced one with another seemingly new injector I had found in a u pull it yard. It appears to be OEM as well luckily and it runs a bit better and I can even reach the rev limiter for the first time since I bought the rig back in 2015.

Wiring checks good and no its got a 125 amp alternator from a quest installed since I run a winch and lights, etc. I do suspect that it may be a flaky relay on the inner passenger side fender (that tiny 3 pin one) the mpfi donor had 310k on it so there was definitely lots of use on everything. I've unfortunately had to sideline this issue as I'm chasing my tail trying to resolve a misfire that comes and goes below 3500rpm. I've swapped everything except the ECU, TPS, O2 sensor, and Igniter chip. It also dropped to 5 cylinders on me on my way to our shop today so I need to make sure an injector hasn't quit on me. I got some oem used ones from a vg33 so I could have the newer connector after fighting with cheap ebay ones that were just way too big on fuel delivery.

Just recently did a mpfi swap on my 87 and everything has been fine until I swapped to some different injectors. After that amd at random (2 or 3 times so far) when I turn my key on the battery light will flash and the small 3 pin main relay under the hood on the passenger fender will click in unison with it. I can start the engine normally and everything works still its just the relay clicking and battery light flashing that worry me. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

Just do a regular oil change, there's no need to stress over the tiny amount of oil left in the pan after draining the oil

Well, I've already converted the 91s dash harness to feed the 87 cluster (I really like it and the 91 cluster was really sun faded and the speedo needle us crispy curly). I've made up a little breakout harness to feed the TBI tach directly off the cluster and BOTH my TBI tachs dont respond sadly. Do you think they're dead from powering them via the MPFI wiring coming from the ECU? Everything else in the cluster works and I can even plug in the 91 tach and it works. Unfortunately the tachs themselves are completely different design wise being that one is back lit and the other is the crappy front lit needle. Also the spacing and center hole for the face plate is slightly different. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I just got done swapping my 87 over to mpfi (was a 91 donor) and need some help with the tach from the TBI setup not working. The MPFI tach works just fine when plugged in. Are the signals different between the TBI and MPFI? I have 2 clusters from TBI models and neither of them will work. Only the original MPFI tach will work. I've seen that the wire that would normally go directly to the tach on the TBI setup goes over to the MPFI ECU and then over to the tach. Its pin 2 and 3 on the ECU and when testing with a multimeter I dont get continuity across those pins. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Yea, the rubber was so bad the inner sections popped right out. And here's a link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/172769763848 Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

That would be mine then, and its actually very thick tubing meant for fuel, oil, and engine bay type temps. It doesn't even collapse under full vacuum from a vacuum pump unless its heated to the point of it being malleable. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Are you talking about on mine or the OP's? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Is the area you're going to be running in hilly, bumpy, or otherwise steep? A carb off road even with antislosh kits in my experience are no where near as good as tbi or mpfi. Better fueling, no flooding, starts faster and runs cleaner. Not to mention if you ever roll it you wont have gas pouring everywhere all over everything. I'd personally get it running right and run it with the tbi system, you'd be surprised how torquey it is and how good it runs when you really need it. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

That's what mine started doing you could dump the clutch from an idle and the axle would shift a good inch or so. Do you think it would be a good idea to replace the panhard bar bushings as well? It's just those 2 spots and every single bushing will have been replaced lol Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

It's amazing how much different it rides with those bushings replaced. Theres still play in the steering box but over all it's much more predictable when on the road now since the back isn't going in an opposing direction through a dip or bump Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

A broken or shorted wire will surely do it! Make sure all your connections are clean and you should be good to go as as long as the sensors and connections are in good shape. And no problem, that's what we're all here for [emoji16] Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

You dont have to, just use the cotton ball trick to make sure piston number 1 is at tdc on its compression stroke and then check your cam marks again. They dont line up perfectly to the timing cover but they'll be really close to them. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Yes you're good there. The next question is, is the crank in the right position your cams could be good but you could be a tooth off on the crank Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

That's not a problem when checking the cams lol it just makes double checking the distributor easier since it's already lined up mechanically Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Well if your timing belt is correct rotate it over to tdc on #1 and make sure your rotor is facing the number 1 spark plug lead for the cap. If not that would be the other part of your timing issues. Just to give you an idea of the distributor orientation. If you're one tooth off on the distributor you might not be able to get it over to where it needs to be to be timed correctly. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Got all my trailing arm bushings replaced. The upper link bushings popped out with a rubber mallet of all things... Also I found a kit on ebay for all 8 for about $80 if anyone else is about to do this. Got them in 3 days and they're much beefier looking than what was in mine originally. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

That looks several teeth off to me. Are there 40 teeth between those 2 dimples on the cam sprockets? If not there's the majority of your problem with it running like crap lol Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

True lol but in the same sense theres no point in over paying either. I mean in the long run I'll probably never need an lsd up front or even a locker for that matter. Just having one in the rear is already worlds better than an open diff. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Code 13 is the coolant temp sensor for the engine. It's on the driver side head just behind and to the inner side of the upper timing cover. If you look straight down near the distributor you'll see it facing forward horizontally in that general area. Most times it's the connector and/ or wiring that causes issues. Heres a kit from rockauto that gives you the sensor, and a new connector. It's not listed for the 87 to 89 models but the same sensor and connector are used on the 90+ models and a ton of other Nissans as well. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

No doubt [emoji23] $1k is 2nd pathfinder territory Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk