RCWD21

My 87 pathfinder with 201k on it has a very irritating tapping/ rattling noise going on that I originally thought was sticky lifters. I started with an oil change to 10w40 full synthetic with a wix filter but it actually got worse. Then I decided to just replace the lifters and they pumped up everything went much quieter until the oil got hot and then they too started making the very same noise as before. I pulled the valve covers again and none of them were slack, they were all firm as could be. So in my thinking I went to the u pull it yard near me and got a full unit from the lifter plates to the rocker arms from an 02 xterra. Swapped them in and once again same thing with the noise, so today I switched from the 10w40 synthetic to 15w40 conventional oil and it got marginally better but not enough to say it made a difference. The noise is always there hot or cold but when hot it's much more pronounced and at idle I get a very distinctive pop noise. I have a video of the noise I'll try and post but I'm really at my witts end here. All that's left is to replace the whole head as I cant find any info on where to look or check. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Got some 12v self adhesive led strip off of ebay and made me an under-hood work light. It's not quite as bright as in the pictures but everything is clearly visible in the dark Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Thanks! And we'll see for sure. The pins are definitely different quality but I've had decent luck with the dorman brand quick service parts. My only gripe is how fragile the bushings are lol Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Indeed it was, it came with the smaller tires from the factory Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I just barely got mine out but some quick heat from some mapp gas and soaking with pb blaster and it finally got free. My advice if you ever get one is slather it with some good anti corrosion grease especially around the oring, that's where mine was stuck. I ordered one of these units direct from japan for about $30 so heres hoping my speedometer is much closer. I'd rather it read a little high than low. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Found what I need, it's part number 32702-33G17 Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Is this the part number that I need? It seems like it but I dont see the little tab that the bolt goes through to hold it in the transfer case. My guess is that this is for the 2wd transmission? Part# 32702-02G17 Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I've got 33 inch tires up from 31 inch tires and the speedometer is off quite a bit. 45 on the dash is around 51 and 60 on the dash is around like 70+. I have the 19 tooth gear shaft and am looking to find a 17 tooth assembly as from my understanding in researching is that the 17 tooth unit is offset so it will engage the main gear correctly. Trouble is I cant find the part number for the 17 tooth unit so I cant figure out what vehicle combos I should search for besides checking every door jam sticker I come across. From my understanding the bigger the tire the smaller the gear needs to be due to the larger tires traveling further per revolution. Does the drive unit need to be from a tx10 transfer case or will a 2wd unit work? I'd assume they're different lengths at the least but it's been a long time since I've seen a 2wd transmission. My gear is molded onto the shaft so simply swapping it wont work like with I'd assume the electric units would be. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Got my door hinge pins replaced finally and it shuts so much better now! Definitely a 2 person job but a hoist makes life easier lol Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

That it was! It's not perfect but theres no more foot sized holes under the rear seats! And thanks for the pic, that helps a ton! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I replaced that entire section of floor due to rust so everything was removed, and it's been like a year so I cant remember what orientation things were in. I'm leaving the center belt and latch out since it always got in my way in my 4 door. I'm dealing with the 4 bolt holes and 2 belt assemblies. I'd assume the belt assemblies go in the inner holes to give more room for whoever sits there. But yes if you could snap a pic that would be great! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

That strip is called "belt molding" and theres a tool for it (several actually). I've been looking for the same pieces and everywhere I found it just a few days ago seems to be hidden for whatever reason. But that being said if theres a pick n pull near you with some pathfinders in it I'd say grab one of those tools and go give it a shot. It's likely to be significantly cheaper than ordering new or aftermarket. The last kit I saw was going for around $80 for the 4 door pathfinders for the rear doors. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Like the title says, could someone post a pic of the buckles under the rear seats? I cant for the life of me find a picture of them online[emoji28][emoji28] Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Try unplugging it, the eco will go to a default value and if it runs better you can go from there Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I'll put them in the garage or sell them on here before they get scrapped lol I have the only set I've ever seen in my area so I'm gonna keep them for as long as possible Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Thanks! And they're alive and well on my dads D21 with the hard to find center caps that I got for $1 a piece [emoji16] I'd have kept them on but they wont hold 33x12.50s [emoji31] and I'm on the fence as well about the rack even though it's been on there 3 years. It does however give me a perfect mount for a light bar and since I have 3 cross bars on top I can load a good amount of stuff up there for the bigger trips or when camping. Plus it gives my sunroof some protection from branches and such Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Hey guys! Haven't been on here in forever but I'm back! Heres a pic of my pathfinder now closer than ever to being on the road since I bought it 5 years ago for $400 [emoji28] Heres a before and after: Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

It looks to me like that tensioner is malfunctioning. It should hold pressure pretty well even after only being primed. When they pop in like that they're usually bad or not primed at all. Remove that tensioner and check the oil passage to it isn't clogged. That chain seems suspect as well, even with you holding up in the guide it shouldn't push back on you anywhere near that much, it should be smooth and even as all the cam lobes are rotated through their positions not clunking like it is. Did you inspect all of the teeth on the timing sprockets? I've had a bent tooth cause tensioning issues after a broken chain due to worn guides. It was barely noticeable to the eye but it kept the chain from sweating fully on the teeth and causing a similar issue. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Have you done a tune up recently? Could be a fouled plug or clogged (partially) fuel filter. Does it smell like it's running rich or lean when it's doing this? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I'm pretty positive that I need to get pag 100 oil Now the question is do I put in 200ml or 220ml of oil??? https://ibb.co/82Pv1JF https://ibb.co/1KcFqMs https://ibb.co/fH6J5Gk

Well my compressor definitely matches the Calsonic NVR140S compressor. The other one looks physically different. **apparently the nvr140s and dkv-14c are the same thing? They look identical from what I can find but since the info sticker on my compressor is missing I might just go grab another unit with an intact sticker so I'll know for sure what compressor I have And I've noticed the Diesel Kiki thing as well, I think they're the maker of the clutch assembly on these compressors.

https://ibb.co/KNj7nF5 https://ibb.co/44P131D These are the only stickers left on the compressor. The square sticker that has all the info is long gone. From my reading it appears to be a Calsonic NVR140S but the sticker on the clutch makes me think it's a different model. I'm 99% sure that the donor vehicle had factory air.

From digging more and more its leading towards PAG-100 but I'm still not sure

Hey guys, it's been a long time since I've been on here and I've got a question hopefully someone knows! Ok so my high pressure line on my ac system burst from age (and possibly an improper r12 to 134a refrigerant conversion from a previous owner). I'm taking this opportunity to retrofit a full r134a system (from a 94) in place of the clicking r12 compressor and old lines. What I'm having a hard time finding out specifically is which oil is the correct oil? Sites like rockauto and even remanned units on ebay say PAG-46 BUT online sites like 4seasons and techchoice plus are saying the oil should be PAG-100. Which should I go with? I dont want to take out a new expansion valve and possibly clog a condenser or ruin a rubber line again.

Rockauto code if anyone needs it 7809419469947022 good til April 28! Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk