RCWD21

Could you post some pics of it? I have part of mine drawn up but pretty much figured out in my head (if only it were that easy right?) It's based on probably 3 different designs but it's still meant to be light weight but super strong in the middle where it needs to be. There's a wholesale metal recycling place a little over an hour from me that can supply me with everything and even cut it to my needs so depending on the price I might just come home with pre-cut pieces lol Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

The only year I've been able to confirm was metal shroud is 87/ 88. The metal shroud is supposedly just easier to trim to clear the steering box (it is kind of tight in there) but there's plenty of material on the plastic shroud to trim too so I don't see the issue there. I pulled my plastic one from a 93 or 94 maxima I believe. You want the one piece unit not the 2 individual fans. I believe that switch happened in 94? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I have a set of outer manual hubs with plastic knobs in them (the internals are toast due to a bad bearing) but they're 100% clean and have been disassembled and lubed. The bolts are longer in the manual hubs and shorter in the autos. As far as I could tell all the manual hub bolts are the same length (I have a big pile of them from a few different sets) Also the hubs went from 27 to 28 spline in the transition from 89 to 90. But the internals swap over. The 87-89 manual hubs have a little recess for the outer bolts while the 90+ hubs are just flush mount. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Gonna be finally building a bumper in the next couple weeks. Looking into the badland winches as they have pretty favorable reviews and don't cost a small fortune (my pathfinder was only $400 mind you)... so yea. I'm leaning towards either the 9k lb or 12k lb winch and was curious what everyone else uses (brand, size, how long you've owned and used it, what you generally use it for most). Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I dont sadly, they were just found in my search for more info about the Taurus fan. Why not go with a controller kit that has the temp probe that you can slip inside the upper rad hose? I've read that they're a lot more reliable that the thermal switch type like in the link above. The maxima fans are 2 fan 2 speed set ups with 4 wires total. Both set of wires have to be connected in order to achieve "high speed" on the fan. They do mount nearly perfectly on the radiator though and I have a set of the plastic shroud type in the garage. The set you really want to go with according to the threads I've found are the metal shrouded one's but everyone I've ever found was either already gone or rusted to pieces. From what I can remember the motors on the plastic shroud one's are the same. I went with the Taurus fan due to wiring issues with the Dakota controller, not to mention the much higher CFM. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I'm using the Dakota Digital PAC-2750 with a 70amp relay for the low speed and a 150amp continuous duty relay for the high speed on a Ford Taurus fan. It does an amazing job cooling the engine on low speed alone and you can tap into the AC trigger wire to activate high speed when you turn on the AC. It pulls some serious current so if you go with that fan make sure you get the factory plug with it as normal spade connectors can't handle the initial start up current requirements of the fan. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Essentially yes, the ON temp of the kit in your link is 185 so you'd want to get the engine to operating temp take a measurement and see what the sensor is seeing. Your goal is to basically match the resistance of the 2 sensors (temp gauge sensor and new kit sensor) so the kit thinks it's using the supplied sensor it comes with. You'll need to heat up some water and have a thermometer in with the kit sensor to see what it's resistance is when the water reaches 185°F. You shouldn't have to worry too much about the OFF temp since once the coolant temp is lowered the fan will cut off. The only problems I can think of with using that kit is that the sensors work opposite of each other in respect to their resistance levels. They'd need to both increase or decrease as temp rises but I would assume they both decrease resistance as temps get hotter. The other problem is that the supplied sensor is an actual thermal switch that shuts once temps reach 185 or higher and then opens once they get to the turn off temp. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

The outer casing is aluminum, the selection knob is plastic a d uses an o-ring to seal to the outer housing. There is also an o-ring that seals the whole assembly to the wheel hub. There are 2? Large but thin ball bearings in each unit along with the sliding mechanism that locks the CV shaft to the wheel hub when the plastic knob is turned to *locked*. Those bearings need to be clean and smooth turning otherwise you run the risk of them seizing or failing completely ruining things and making the hubs almost impossible to use. The design is sort of like teeth on a gear that lock the CV shaft to the outer housing when the selection knob is turned and the inner assembly moves outward I think locking the two together. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I used an inline adapter with my Dakota digital install. But given that the sensor for our temp gauges is the same design it's plausible to just tap into that connection. I've read of lots of people (mostly on here or infamous) just tapping into the existing sensor. Obviously I'd make sure that the activation temp is where you want it, a resistor or something of the sort might be needed depending on the controller you use. For an example the Dakota digital requires a 300°F capable sensor to operate correctly. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I'm not sure yet, probably near the center so it doesn't cause undue stress on the mounts even though I don't plan on using it for full on recovery. More or less for lighter stuff like pulling branches and logs out of my way etc. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

If I remember correctly, they're larger on the wd21. I know they're bigger than what I though they were gonna be when I added a second hook to my old pathfinder. I plan on getting one for the rear of my pathfinder for a quick hookup Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I think it's 14 or 16 by 1.25? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

My frustration always came when I was in a few feet of water, I've never been stuck in sand but a ton of people around me have. It's funny to see mall crawlers and pavement princesses try and follow a stock pathfinder through very simple stuff lol

My big thing was when trying to rock myself out of a rut or hole. Constantly locking and unlocking got old real fast

That's not too bad of a drive. I couldn't wait to get the auto hubs off of my rig

That sounds like here where I am. There's an 89 harbody and that was the last one I found. Luckily the manual lockers were on it still, I really wanted a spare TBI set up just in case

Well if you ever look for more used ones just remember that the throttle body on the v6 and the 4cyl engines are the same. But hopefully your new injector fixes your issues. When mine gives me problems it's MPFI time.

It's basically just a large hole where the throttle body sits and then the fuel is pulled to the cylinder that has caused a vacuum on its short runner. The TBI system is sorta smart but pretty dumb at the same time. At idle and "normal" driving only one injector is operating. Under WOT or heavy load the second injector kicks on and they both deliver fuel. Which injector that is really depends on if they've ever been replaced before due to the 50/50 wiring. My 87 you can see fuel spraying out into the throat and hitting the throttle plate, with a bright enough light and blipping the throttle I can see much more fuel being delivered. Have you tried removing and switching the injectors to see if one is indeed bad or if there's a build up on the tip? Mine were pretty bad when I did my throttle body rebuild.

Ok well the sealed boot did the trick with the surging, I just ordered a new boot to replace it with. All my parts should be here by the middle of this coming week so hopefully no more CEL! Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Well I'll be trying out my intake boot fix today, so I'll post up what happens. Hopefully the surging issue will be gone Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

You're best bet is to replace the coil along with that pulley and probably the clutch face too. From the looks of all the rust and that bearing that should have been repaired a long time ago. Rewinding that coil will be fruitless mainly because once the coil is powered it needs to have a certain amount of "pull" to it to be able to properly engage the AC clutch. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

The p0420 code only showed up after the o2 sensor code appeared so I'm hoping that since the pre-cat sensor is working and the post-cat sensor isn't the ecu thinks that the catalytic converter isn't working properly due to the out of spec reading Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I'm glad I found it too, that wasn't there a few days ago (the one on the top side) the bottom I'm not sure of since it was much smaller. Right now I have a lot of rtv sealing the cracks until i can get a new boot to replace it with. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I think I found the colors. They're gray and white or off white. I'll double check tomorrow when I install my sealed up intake boot for a temp fix. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk