RCWD21

That's for the SC model and I have a different plug, do you happen to know what color wires are to the knock sensor? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Luckily it's the NA model. Do you happen to know the specs on the resistor? I have a few hundred of them so I probably have what is need already Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

The hood sticker says 10° and that's where I put it last, i haven't changed it back to 15° yet. I also ordered a new o2 sensor a little while ago and am currently waiting to hear back about a new intake boot. Is that knock sensor code really worth the hassle on these newer vehicles? I hate where it's located.... Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Also here are the codes I had stored as of today. Along with some more specific data with the engine running at idle and at roughly 2k rpm. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I FOUND MY ISSUE!! Hopefully at least.. The intake boot cracked open and with the engine idling the cracks aren't apparent unless you really push and pull on the pleats. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

After reading into the code for the o2 sensor (P0140) supposedly it's only there to monitor things and doesn't have any effect on driveability. Now say I didn't have this particular code, what else could be causing this surging issue? I've checked for and haven't found any vacuum leaks. The only thing I haven't done to this truck is clean the maf in a while (cleaned back in February). Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I haven't found any vacuum leaks, all the lines are in good condition. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Remove the 10mm bolt in the middle and gently remove the clutch face, then remove the snap ring that holds the pulley bearing in place, then there's 3 machine screws that hold the electro-magnet to the compressor body. Once you remove the clutch face it's pretty self explanatory. ****Be careful of the shim that goes on the compressor shaft under the clutch face and make sure it's back on there BEFORE you install the clutch face and bolt.*** Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

The o2 code has been present since February, but this issue only started appearing around 3 or 4 weeks ago. It's just really strange that nothing has changed and yet this issue has come up. I'll be getting a hold of a bosch code reader tomorrow to pull the codes again and see if anything else has come up since the last reset a few days ago. CEL is on for sure because of that o2 code but there could be more. I'll keep you updated on how things go. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

But why would an o2 sensor that's been "inactive" since before all this be causing problems now? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Tight valves possibly? I'm not really sure how it'd have good compression while cold but lose compression once hot on only those 3 cylinders (if I'm reading your post correctly) Did you check everything on the head? Was it running fine before the head gasket issue. Was it due to over heating or some other issue? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

The code came back on at 15 miles. I'm 99% sure it's the non-active bank 2 sensor 2 o2 sensor code. But I found my timing light and checked the timing. The point was over the last mark to the right. I tried the timing at both 10° like the hood sticker says and also at 15°. At 15° the surging happens during lower rpms and happens more frequently. At 10° it's less pronounced at lower rpms but still very noticeable, but now as soon at it reaches 4k rpms it falls flat until 3k rpm and then goes back up and then down to 3500 and then bounces up til redline. It only does this from a dead stand still or a very slow start from 1st to 2nd gear and very rarely in the beginning of 3rd gear. Once the truck is rolling past about 30mph the rpms only dip ever so slightly and then they steadily climb just like they should. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Just to pick another mind besides my own, why would this problem come up now when nothing has changed on the truck since I did all the maintenance? I doubt temp alone would cause it seeing as this issue started while temps were still cool and it also does it in the rain or at night. I don't hear any pinging or detonating even when it's really hot out. It has a slight miss at idle but every nissan I've ever owned has done that. Could a TPS with a dead spot in it cause this issue? I still haven't found my timing light but I'm going to search for it more tonight Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I cleared the codes today just to see if not having anything stored would help. Under hood temps were through the roof seeing as the ambient temp was around 100° along with the truck being black. After 5 miles I put it in first and started from about 5mph. It surged from 3k rpm down to around 2200 and did that 2 or 3 times. The surge becomes less and less the closer I get to 4k rpms. It's acting like it's starving for fuel but if I leave it in neutral I can rev it all the way to the fuel cut without any issues. Everything ignition wise is in good shape or only has a few thousand miles on them. Timing belt is on correctly, iridium plugs were installed before timing belt was replaced. This thing really has me stumped. Researching online isn't turning anything up. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

That's correct, just make sure you do one sensor at a time or label everything though. Some have the same plug and driver and passenger can accidentally be swapped Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

The surging issue seems to be worse with ambient temps over 90° so I'm starting to think that the oxygen sensor/ catalyst issue is causing one or both banks of cylinders to run leaner than normal Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Been dealing with this issue since I got the truck back in February and haven't really done anything about it but figured I'd start looking into it again. First thing that I can't figure out is that in first and second gear when accelerating the truck surges like I'm letting the clutch slip slightly until rpms reach above 4k. I replaced the fuel filter and the issue got slightly better (it needed to be changed) but I feel that something else isn't right. Timing belt was done 4k miles ago. Ignition timing hasn't been checked since replacing the distributor but this surging issue only started within the last month or so. With the less aggressive cam in the 3.3 are these engines more sensitive to heat soaking and hot air? Or am I just running it too damn hard? Secondly I constantly have a code stating that the bank 2 sensor 2 oxygen sensor is inactive. This code only showed after unplugging the connector to be able to remove a heatshield. Would that code also cause a P0420 code since the ECU isn't receiving a signal from the oxygen sensor? I only have 1 exhaust leak caused by the infamous cracked manifolds on the passenger side but again that's been there since way before the codes and surging. I can hear a rattle under hard acceleration and heavy load (read 4k+ rpm)but when tapping on the cat I dont really hear anything loose although I guess the precat could have finally broken apart and is causing the noise. Gas mileage seems ok, haven't really checked it. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I've always removed whatever was in the way that would give me room to work with, especially when it comes to engine mounts with the engine still in the vehicle. It's worth removing something if it'll save you a headache from working in a cramped spot or with "just enough" room. With the engine hoisted look and see what would give you the extra clearance needed, I feel that you've already found the issue with the exhaust. Just remember to keep an eye out for wiring and hoses that may be stretching or possibly broken from lifting the engine too high. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Which angle would you like? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Installed the xterra roof rack that's been laying beside my garage for around a year. Also discovered several wasps trying to make my pathfinder their home. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Today I decided to finally install the xterra roof rack that I picked up over a year ago. It's just been laying up against the side of the garage outside collecting cobwebs up until now. Now I know that there's a few installs already on here like this but none of them that I've found include active pics and more importantly how much is required to be trimmed for all the mounts to be flush with the body. I won't be including pics of the rivnut install as that's pretty straight forward and some of you might not choice to use that method for attaching the rack. First of all you need 1. The roof rack with or without the bars. 2. A decent tape measure. 3. A way to cut the tubing (I used a hacksaw) 4. Room to work 5. Most importantly a WD21 Pathfinder First thing I did was see where I wanted the rack to mount. Mounting on the lower section of roof would probably be easier but due to me having a snorkel it forces me to mount to the middle raised portion of roof. On the first side it was mostly trial and error until I found what worked. The second bar took about a minute flat. The amount that I removed from the front of both bars was 2 3/4 inches (2.75"). This leaves just the slightest gap under the middle mount which actually helps with the mounting feet being flush with the roof once everything is tightened down. I still have to trim a few things as of right now but once I do I'll post more pictures. *** Here's a very important note for those of you that have sun roofs. Mounting the rack like I did will cause the front foot to over lap the front corners of the sun roof causing it to be unable to be opened. Now if you never open the sun roof then you can ignore this note as the feet sit flush. But if you do open it then you'll need to trim the back inner section of the front feet to allow clearance for the sunroof. With the rack mounted and feet trimmed you'll be able to open it but you'll have to remove the rack to completely remove the sunroof. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I'm going to be trimming some material from the springs in an effort to lower it down a bit, I'll probably start with the original pigtail and go from there. But first I'm going to measure the compressed length of the springs. I think it's safe to say that these springs won't be sagging anytime soon, if ever. When I did the lift it gave me a little under 4 inches so apparently my 30 year old springs weren't sagging as much as I thought they were. With the front end up as much as it is right now the front tires are finally looking like / . This thing rides completely different than anything I've had before. It floats yet is incredibly firm at the exact same time Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Just brain storming here but would a set of half inch ball joint spacers give me any more clearance between the upper arm and the bump stop? I could weld them in if they'd help. I'm sure even going to maybe 5/8" or even 3/4" max would be safe as long as they were welded on to the upper arm. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Ok so to add on to this, from what I can gather the ultra low profile bump stops are 3/8" and that's what I've ground my current bump stops to. I'm needing at least another inch out of the front end, what are my options? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

A while back I installed some thinner bump stops for the new SL upper control arms. I just got around to trying to level everything off today. Well I was several inches off from front to back and after trimming the bump stops in half height wise I'm still 2.5 inches lower in the front than the back. F 39.5" R 42" I'm currently resting on the bump stops up front but I only have a little over 1/4 of an inch until it would be metal on metal. Can I safely go any thinner with the bump stops? Pics for reference: Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk