RCWD21

I enlarged and cleaned up the hole and welded in some hardened washers (may or may not have been the correct kind) but they happened to be the perfect thickness doubled up. Then dusted the fromt of the mount with a grinder and then welded on the bearing race. If you go into my posts there should be pics of it in place. I beleive the part number is L68111 for the bearing races. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Look on the back side of the compression rod for what the cup looks like, they're not all that thick. Usually they crack and then break away from the welds and fall off after rusting apart. I've used bearing races ground down to replace the cups and that's what I plan on doing with my 87 if the cup can't be salvaged since it's still there. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

You're missing the little cup that is welded to the frame mount. It keeps the bushing centered. Check to make sure the hole isn't all worn and chewed up also. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

There's 3 bolts. 2 at the top (one up front, one at the rear) then there's the bottom bolt that goes through the adjustment sleeve/ bracket. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

The whistle isn't too bad on mine unless your ear is right next to the intake on the snorkel. But I'm glad to hear you've got it installed the rest of the way Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Here's the passenger side. You can see where the dirt has trapped moisture along the seam in the second pic. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Here's more pics of the rust I'm dealing with, this is the drivers side. It's worse on the passenger side since it's been packed with dirt for probably years. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I'd imagine it would be a bit of an adventure if someone got their hands stuck in a tight place haha Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I have nearly $10k worth of tools at my disposal but it's still not enough. Mainly because I'm lacking specifics like pneumatic shears for sheet metal and other things like that. I have an idea of how I want all this rust fixed thanks to Google pics of other people's fixes with the same rust issues. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Ok after A LOT of reading and browsing repairs to similar mounts on other vehicles I think I have it figured out and within my comfort level. I'm still not looking forward to all the cutting and welding in my near future. I'm going to get a larger compressor tomorrow to hopefully speed up the rust removal process. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Also does anyone have a away to possibly source me a rust free rear seat section/ body mounts? At the very least I think I'll need the mounts but I guess I'll find out once I start cutting through the outer skin spot welds to gain access to the inner mount section Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I'm in the process of removing as much rust as possible before cutting out under my back seats to create storage since most of the area is rusted through. Has anyone dealt with replacing a body mount? I'm not very good with body work, especially the thin stuff. The inner sheet metal is in fair enough condition but the outer piece that turns down by the rocker panel all needs to be removed. Here's my question, could I use the rear mounts out of a 4 door and possibly the rear inner floor pan under the rear seats too? There are ZERO 2 doors in my area except the one I have. I've never come across one in a junkyard and there are a couple 4 doors that are rust free in the areas I'm dealing with. Here's some pics of the rust I'm dealing with. It spreads up under the rear floor between the 2 panels but luckily I only have to cut up towards the rear cargo area about 4 inches since there appears to be solid/ salvageable metal. This is way worse than I was ever expecting and beyond my skill set and budget currently so any scavenging I can do from other wd's would save me a lot of time and money. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

That's the base for an alarm siren/ horn. Probably had an aftermarket alarm at one point but was removed Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Yea, just like the set I have for sale haha. You can either heat the pigtails up and bend them out or you can cut them off, obviously cutting the pigtail off will lessen the amount of lift you get. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

There's only a small amount of rust forward of the rear seats. Everything rearward looks like it was just never washed or taken care of. Oh well, under-seat storage time now! Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Have you checked the rear trailing arm bushings and the panhard rod bushings? Is your tire pressure correct all the way around? As long as everything is firm with the sway bar I don't think that is your issue. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Removed the rear seats and banged, scraped, and vacuumed up a little over 3 POUNDS of rust. There's probably another pound that fell through. Tomorrow is surgery day. The PO's "fix" was to cover it with tape and let it keep rusting [emoji35] Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I've been looking for the reducer that came with my snorkel but I haven't been able to find it yet. I'm pretty sure it steps down from 3 inches to I wanna say 2 inches? If you type in d21 snorkel on ebay you'll find the one I went with and it shows it fairly well in the picture for the listing. These snorkels were originally for the diesels but flow enough air for pretty much all of the d21/wd21 engines. I noticed no difference in mine once it was totally sealed other than the whistle from the throttle body traveling up the tubing. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

There is literally just enough room above the condenser after removing the passenger side upper screw so I can lean forward some to mount it once I make that 90° more of a twisted squiggly so it can give enough room for a hose to be attached and not rub through. Should only take about 5 feet of hose total to plumb in by the looks of it. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I got them installed today, they gave my roughly an extra 1/4 inch of distance between the stop and the arm. I can always trim them down a bit. But for now I got everything fairly close seeing as I need to get all the weight sorted out and give the reindex time to settle some. Overall I'm happy with them and they provide piece of mind since I'm usually pretty damn rough on my stuff, like finding pot holes in a road that's halfway flooded from rain. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Do any of your yards have any hardbodies? The rear drum brake assembly is the same between the 2 models. You've got from 86.5 to 97 on the hardbodies and 87 to 95 on the pathfinders. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

If the big nut is stuck, pb blaster and heat are your friend. I've found that once the nut is loose it'll unscrew fairly easily. Just remember to put antiseize on the threads just incase you ever need to remove the intake or something it'll be easier. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Have you tried taking it off and cleaning it? Sometimes little bits of carbon can build up and cause the egr valve to stick. Carb cleaner and a metal pipe brush and letting it soak would probably be all you really need. Plus it's cheaper than buying a new one. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

No its the little round black think next to the throttle body opening. The mixture heater on mine was in perfect shape and apparently still works but I'll probably find a replacement from the JY when one shows up so I can gut it and get it out of there as well. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Finished removing the hot air thermo element thing from my air box and sealing it shut for the snorkel. Re-routed some wires and fired it up for the first time in a month and it fired right up. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk