RCWD21

Have you tried replacing your gas cap? When they don't hold enough pressure the computer can throw a code and it's something that can easily be overlooked. A lot of vehicles can do this sort of thing and luckily it's a fairly cheap fix if it is indeed the issue. There's a tester that you can get to test the cap but last I can remember the tester is about the same price as a new cap.

You could use a heat gun to thaw out any frozen water but another thing you could do for over night waiting periods is put a drop light under the hood itll help keep things from getting totally frozen depending on how cold it gets. Also make sure there is antifreeze in the cooling system and not straight water. If it's still sitting with water I'd go ahead and drain the cooling system to get as much as possible out and pour in some antifreeze. There are a few spots in the engine valley that could be leaking. One is right under the bypass hose where the metal pipe bolts in. There's another spot at the back of the block where it turns and runs to your heater core. There's a few rubber hoses that are on the intake manifold that could be the issue too, make sure your clamps are on and tight and if they're questionable go ahead and replace them.

That looks really good, if I didn't already have an xterra rack I'd probably copy this since my 87 doesn't have roof racks and has a sunroof like yours. Sent from inside my potato

If you're already going to be in there I'd go ahead and do all the seals since to do them later on you'd be right back at this very spot. It's cheap insurance to know that they aren't leaking or are going to leak in another few months. Sent from inside my potato

The snorkel should be here on the 4th and UCA and panhard bracket this week. But until then I've been organizing all the spare and replaced parts in the back and removed the rear bumper and jacked up trailer hitch. Sent from inside my potato

It's been a while but if I remember correctly I angled it down so it was just sorta in there.. been a while since I was behind a timing cover if its easier on you, you can use the belt method to loosen the bolt too just be careful. All this is assuming you have access to compressed air. If you want you could also reinstall the old belt also let everything do the work of holding the cam still and then just pop the old belt off. The cam is going to move once the belt is removed but as long as you don't rotate anything you'll be ok. Oh and make sure you don't scratch the cam when removing the seal, if the seal is hard you can use a heat gun to soften the rubeer to make removal easier. And what I do when installing new seals is to smear just a little bit of grease on the outside of the seal to help it slip into place. I also put grease on the part of the seal that rides on the cam itself. A dry seal could cause leak issues too.

Sounds good. You'll see what I mean when you get in there. Hope it helps! Sent from inside my potato

I use a long extention through one of the holes up against the head NOT the timing covers, and use an impact gun to remove the bolt. To install it there's a notch on the cam itself that you place an adjustable wrench on to hold it in place while you torque the bolt back to spec. To get to the notch you have to remove your valve cover and rocker arms. I'd imagine holding the sprocket in place with the old belt if you still have it and torquing the bolt down would work too. Sent from inside my potato

I ordered a snorkel since I tend to nose dive up to the wipers through the ruts where everyone else tears up the woods trying to show off and I've come close to hydrolocking a few times. When I get it I'll take a ton of pics since I haven't seen anything on this type in depth on the forum. I can't wait for everything to arrive so I can use all my new tools. Sent from inside my potato

Got a lot of new tools today and ordered my superlift upper control arms and panhard bracket on Friday. And a snorkel too Sent from inside my potato

Does anyone know what the part number is for the energy suspension coil spring isolators for the wd21 springs? I've looked and looked some more and can't find a definitive answer. I see one mention of 15.6103 but that's it. Does anyone know for sure? I want to know the number incase I need to replace the isolators when I do my lift, other wise I'll just grab a bunch from the junkyard. Sent from inside my potato

The 6 bolts that hold the pulleys to the balancer are M6x1.00 thread. And in the future if you're trying to remove the crank bolt and don't have compressed air you can always find the rotation of the engine and position a breaker bar against the frame and I stress frame here, then after you remove all 6 plugs and disconnect your ignition coil lead from your distributor (just incase) you can bump the engine over with the starter to loosen the bolt. If you have a manual transmission put it in 5th, pull your e-brake, chock your wheels and use a torque wrench to torque the crank bolt back to spec. If you have an auto transmission you can stuff thick rope into a cylinder to hold the engine from turning. As for bending the pulley back you could if it's your only vehicle but I have no idea what it would do to your belt and you risk having a belt jump off. From your pic it doesn't look too bad and couple be gently bent back in place. Although I would go ahead and replace it since bending it back could crack it. When you go to get the pulley all you need is a small ratchet with a deep well 10mm socket. You should be able to just gentle tap the pulley with the handle of the ratchet or gentle pry it off if it's stuck but most times they pop right off once the bolts are gone. *** Before you remove your old pulley take note of where your timing marks are in relation to where the woodruff key slot is on the balancer that way you don't have to fight with moving it around when you do your ignition timing. Sent from inside my potato

All the vg30i and e engines use the same pulley system and harmonic balancer, where things get different is the woodruff key in the crank snout. I believe earlier ones have 2 and later ones have 1? Either way as long as it's off of a vg30 pathfinder or hardbody it'll work. My harmonic bal acer on my 87 with a vg30i came from a 93 harbody with the vg30e in it. And are you sure you bent the balancer and not just the pulleys that bolt to the balancer? Sent from inside my potato

Is anyone aware of what models I can pull a manual steering box from? The JY I frequent usually gets in new vehicles every week or two so I'd like a definite year range and model to look out for. Sent from inside my potato

When I get my pathfinder back on the road I plan on properly converting the AC system over to R-134a refrigerant and fix the few small leaks I've discovered due to old and aged orings. The local shop will be doing the evacuation seeing as I'm not sure if there is a mix of R12 and 134a in the system. After that I plan on buying my own vacuum pump and manifold gauge set. Now down to the specifics that I want to double check. Seeing as I'm using a compressor that was used in an r12 system would I use mineral oil even with the 134a refrigerant or would I empty out the compressor as best as possible and switch it over to PAG 46 oil? I know there is a viscosity difference between PAG 46 and 100. When I look on Rockauto the compressors state to be used with PAG 46 so am I right in assuming that I need to use PAG 46 when I convert over? Also is the refrigerant and oil capacity the same between an 87 R12 system and a 95 r134a system? I believe the refrigerant capacity for the r12 system calls for 1.65-1.87 pounds at 85 psi or higher and the oil capacity is 8.6oz of Suniso 5GS oil which is obviously what was used from the factory but the new oil is a PAG oil. I know this is a long post but I'd rather do this myself as the local shops don't really do the best ac work and I'd feel much more comfortable with knowing I did it properly and that I won't have to keep taking it back for the same issues. Sent from inside my potato

If I remember correctly I believe it does just dump back into the housing somewhere about mid level, all I know is that there's a ton of passages in these autos that get clogged up when clutch packs get overheated and decide to break apart along with destroying the brake band.. took me nearly a week to clean everything out and to make sure it was clear. Sent from inside my potato

There's fleurys products which is the simplest option, and then there's the Jeep Grand Cherokee spring option which is how I'm going on mine, and then there's also springs from 4x4parts.com and other site. To me and a lot of others Calmini products are over priced and there are other options out there that are equally good or even better. Take a look around the forum and check out all your options before you decide, but if you're only looking for a few inches Fleurys spacers are the way to go. Sent from inside my potato

A long drive plus a torch should do the trick, I've never had one that was stuck though. Always just heated em up and popped em free with a breaker bar. Sent from inside my potato

Becareful with the impact on the drain plug, use a propane torch to heat up around it and use a breaker bar. Have you been able to remove the fill plug first or are you going to fill it up through the shifter hole on top? Sent from inside my potato

It could've been worse but hopefully it didn't damage anything more than the hubs. I swapped to manual hubs on my 87 and it's barely half way through my build sheet, but once it's done I can't wait to get back out to my old spots. Oh and by the way I'd go ahead and change your front differential gear oil and your transfer case just incase, especially the front differential though. Sent from inside my potato

Take your hubs off, take the inner pawl out so it's basically just a dust cap and then drive it around for a bit checking for noise. You'll probably be fine once you either swap in another set of auto hubs or swap over to a set of factory manual hubs. The hub is designed to be the weak link so the rest of the system doesn't take the damage, I only suggest taking them apart incase one is damaged to the point that it randomly engages which is highly unlikely but it's what I'd do. I'd also swap to manual hubs that way you know they're locked or unlocked and if you're trying to rock yourself out of a hole they won't be locking and unlocking as you change direction. Also check your cv axles for any up and down play (the shaft will move in and out slightly) Sent from inside my potato

It's the sensor where the yellow connector is in the picture. Just follow your upper radiator hose and you'll see it. The sensor with 1 wire is for your temp gauge in your cluster. The one behind it is the CHTS. It shouldn't cost more than $20 or $30 most places. Becareful with the connector as they get brittle with age and don't lose the metal spring clip that holds it to the sensor. Sent from inside my potato

I've never had to use a puller to pull of the balancer, just some light taps with a block of wood and it slid right off. Before you put it back on make sure the crank snout and the inside of the balancer are clean and then smear a tiny bit of grease on the crank snout, not much but enough to keep moisture and corrosion to a minimum. Sent from inside my potato

A: Sounds to me like your CHTS(cylinder head temp sensor is causing issues since you say it goes full rich, that little sensor is the brain of what the ECU sees. Without a good sensor it thinks it's like -60 out and caused it to literally flood the engine with fuel causing crappy performance. Usually the sign of a bad sensor is it'll run fine when cold but once it gets up to operating temp it'll do exactly what it's doing to you. B: you can fix it yourself for the cost of a new sensor and a 17 or 19mm wrench (I'm pretty sure it's 19mm) Sent from inside my potato

The water in the fuel could be an issue, I had a problem with water in my 95 hardbody and it was gutless until the water was removed from the fuel system, almost exactly as the OP's issue of stumbling and rough running. Also I don't know if you use it or know about it but there's a product called StarTron. It's made by the starbrite company and it works with ethanol fuels and keeps the fuel from corroding metals and keeps the ethanol from absorbing moisture. It also rejuvenates old (within reason) fuel and also stabilizes gas up to 2 years. It's a product that actually works and I've been using it since my dad started using at our shop where we repair watercraft and stuff that frequently have issues with water in their fuel or bad gas from a cheap marina. It's also a fuel system cleaner and you can't overdose your system which is a great thing to not have to worry about. You can find it at Walmart, and most places that sell fuel additives. So if anyone has problmes or concerns about ethanol fuels try it out. Sent from inside my potato