RCWD21

Here's the power steering cooler. It's a little bigger than my eyeball measurements. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I went ahead and ordered the bump stops from my first post on here. A little over $13 with a free life time upgrade and warranty direct from Energy Suspensions website. The original bump stop measures 7/8" tall, the new ones are 11/16" tall so not too much thinner but should still alow more travel. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

The cooler I found is a single U tube with a ton of fins that make up the majority of this little things size. It has a bracket welded to it so mounting would be easy. Finding room is another story as obviously things are pretty tight. It's angled so I was hoping I could pop it up under the cross section beside the hood latch or somewhere similar but that's proving to be easier said than done. As for plumbing I was going to run a hose from the hard line on the passenger side where it leads back to the resovoir and then from the cooler back to the resovoir. If the cooler doesn't really help at least I'll gain a little extra fluid capacity. I'll attach a picture of it here in a little bit before I head to work. I paid like $5 for it at the junkyard a while back and it's just been sitting in my seat waiting. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I found a small cooler from a mid 90's ford explorer and was planning on running it on my 87 pathfinder. I know the fluid gets pretty hot and well obviously there's no cooler from the factory. Does anyone else run a power steering cooler? I haven't come across anyone on here that does and was just curious about it, if you do have you noticed any difference? Where'd you mount it? Any idea how much cooler the fluid is? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I'm not sure if you've read this thread or not but this is what I'm basing my choices off of. All I need to do is measure and pick one. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?/topic/9988-Shock-absorber-part-numbers-and-sizing Here's what RedPath is referring to, I'm on Tapatalk too and can go right to it. It's pinned at the top of the main page for the general forum. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?/topic/13814-Aftermarket-part-list

Since it's too late to edit my original post I also found 9.9116 on energy suspensions website. They're 1" tall versus the .6" tall of the 9.9102G. I'm debating on which to go with but I'm still curious as to what everyone else had used when replacing their bump stops. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Well I'm TBI so it's much easier to connect the snorkel. But with the air box being right there by the fender you run tubing from the big hole on the front lower side to the snorkel. I'm assuming you didn't receive it but there's a reducer that goes from the snorkel hose down to I think 2.5 inches. Maybe back little bigger or smaller. I think I still have mine somewhere. But you definitely don't want to run it without an air filter for obvious reasons. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Mine had a tendency to pop off when offroading due to branches and sticks. It took me forever to find them and after one popped off I left them home so I wouldn't lose them. I just happened to find them in an out of the way junkyard and paid $1 per since it was near closing time. Your normal air filter should be perfectly fine for the snorkel. I'd think a filter at the inlet would cause too much restriction and a loss in performance. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Hey we have the same snorkel! I've yet to test mine but how is yours holding up? Any difference in engine performance? Have you found center caps for the legos? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I've been reading and I know there are low profile bump stops and then there are ultra low profile bump stops. Problem is, I don't know which part number is the correct one for the low profile ones. I'm staying away from the ultra low profile ones since they're just inviting tons of cv axle problems. I found a set on ebay for $16 and wanted to double check on here to make sure these are the correct ones. The part number below sounds like the right one as it's .6" thick. 9.9102G is the part number. Item Dimensions Length: 6.6"" Width: 2.5"" Height: 0.6"" Weight: 0.4 pounds Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Installed my superlift upper control arms today. Turns out I already had the stock arms set where they should be with a lift with the bump stops but now since one broke apart I need to replace them. I was thinking of getting 1/2" ball joint spacers to regain a little more clearance if the low profile bump stops don't provide enough room. The surprising part is that there are only a few washers from the factory on both sides and only one thin shim on the driver side behind the spindle mount bolts. I have longer bolts just incase seeing as I need to get it aligned anyways due to weird tire wear. Besides the paint on the arms I'm very happy with them and I can't wait to get this thing on the road and down some trails Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I don't have any input on that brand, sorry dirtbike23. All I can really tell you is there are more spring options that would work for a lift than you can shake a stick at. Do as much research as you can and compare specs, coil count, wire thickness, and static height to stock and go with what you feel confident will work. Thicker wire will have a higher spring rate and more coils will provide a higher ride height over stock but how much depends on a lot of different factors. Only problem I've run into is that not all companies have specs for their springs because they buy them from one place and put their own name on them. Sorry for the long post, but just weigh your options against availability and what you know will work and go from there. That's what I did. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

A lot of people run rancho shocks when the do a lift. I've looked at rancho and skyjacker (presumably the same shock with a different sticker from my reading). There's been a few people that have used 95 or 96 Ford f250 shocks on the rear (you have to change over the lower bushing to fit onto our perch) I believe the top fits fine as I've never heard any mention of that needing to be changed too. Only the lower. I'm in the same boat you are and what I'm doing is sourcing the shocks last so I can measure everything once it's sitting like it would be when done so I can find the correct length shock. I used lift coils for a JGC and got a lot of lift. Static height on these was 21". Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Welcome! Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Oh and I forgot to mention Citron, that the inside of my pathfinder is filled with boxes of parts. Probably somewhere around 200 to 250 pounds so it's not as light as it normally would be. But hey at least I know it's not going to sag much at all with people inside. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I got a little under 4 inches of lift from the looks of it, I'll have to measure the front to see since it didn't move much at all for some reason. As for the ride I have no idea, I still need to figure out which shocks to go with in the rear. I know the stock electros still worked perfect after 30yrs. It's not street legal yet either, but hopefully in a couple weeks it will be but know for a fact that those springs are going to be tons stiffer than stock. I've been working on this thing for a little over a year now and it's almost done. Another $1000 and I should be done (or so I keep telling myself) Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Installed my lift springs today, they're lift springs for a JGC. They measure 21 inches free standing. I used 5/8" vinyl tubing for the lower isolators since mine were basically falling apart. The uppers looked brand new minus the spring indentation. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

That would be great, how much was shipping to you? I live in eastern NC so shipping might break it lol Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

If you don't mind me asking where'd you get that light at? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I run Valvoline Synthetic blend 10w-30 with wix/ microgaurd filters and I love how clean it gets everything. I prefer that and the above mentioned Rotella oil. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Bent the pigtails out on the jeeps springs for the lift, everything is almost ready for this weekend. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Do you mean manual hubs? The cheapest and in my opinion the strongest option you could go with are a set of factory manual locking hubs from a hardbody. Anything from 90 and newer will work. If you can't find a set of those then Warn makes a set and so does Mile Marker. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Probably just the bulb finally blew after all the years and bumps and bangs. As long as the transmission is still reacting to the difference in switch position then that side of things is good. The bulb is easy to replace, just pull the bezel and you'll see the socket that the bulb is in. It's either a 194 bulb or the one smaller than that which I can't remember the number for. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Awesome thanks! As you would guess those are the cheapest of the 3 lengths to go with. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Anyone happen to remember what length bolt they used? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk