RCWD21

Moved it for the first time in months, and in the process of releasing the clutch and hopefully leveling it off more today Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Is it more of a ticking like a single marble slapping around inside of a cylinder or like a roaring bearing the has a tight spot in it? Reason I'm asking is that my 87 makes a marble like sound but as soon as it's above idle it goes away completely. From my reading it could be a failing bearing or something internal to the compressor that helps regulate pressure that has gotten weak over the years of use. Some people say it's normal (sounds like a ford compressor on the newer vehicles) and some say it's going to fail anytime in the near future Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I'm at the stage in my build where I'm planning on building my own bumpers. It's probably really clear why I'm posting this, but if not it's because I can't make up my mind of which style to go with. I'm partial to tubular but also to the larger ARB style. I've been all over this forum looking at bumpers and just wanted to see what the current memebers are using, both front and rear pics please! Only requirements is it must be a winch bumper and be plenty strong for the front. The rear can be of any style as long as it's not just a railroad tie (I've thought about it so don't ask) Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

3 inch body lift, JGC RC 3" lift coils, and superlift A-arms. I need at minimum 26" shocks but finding a set I like is hard enough. I was given a set that were supposed to be from a stock f250 but they're only 2 inches longer than stock but I'm thinking they were off of something else as they have a metal collar top and bottom. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

The only way I've ever been able to fix the miss is to literally clean EVERYTHING internal engine wise just like it would be new. Even then it still pops up here and there. I've leaned towards the crappy fuel that we're mostly forced to use these days. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Before and after pics of the lift (both 31x10.50r15 tires). Now just having a really hard time with the ebrake cable bracket extensions and muffler clearance on top of finding a decent set of rear shocks. Started it up after sitting for nearly 2 months though, fired right up and smoked like crazy from the old fuel lol I feel bad for my neighbors sometimes. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

The Hayden 291 kit seems to be what a lot of people have used for a single filter relocation. They're around $50 on ebay and summit. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I usually just get my parts on ebay, rockauto, parts store or from donors. Never bought anything from a dealer except a valve cover for a 200sx Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Pretty much, just make sure you use new crush washers and that the seating surfaces are clean and flat Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Sounds to me like there is damaged wiring somewhere. When you cleaned your alt out I feel as if the insulation on the windings could have been compromised or damaged more. When it smoked on you, that may have been the windings shorting together shorting the positive lead to ground. It's really hard to say what it is but is your alt putting out any current at all? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Sounds good. I like the idea of less work too, especially when it comes to big changes like body lifts. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

When I installed my 3 inch body lift all I did was trim the lower hose to remove the kink and the temp sensor coupler in my upper hose provided me enough extra length to not have to replace the upper hose, without that all you'll need is a longer upper hose and trim to fit. My Dakota digital fan controller shows no difference with the radiator before or after the body lift, it's accurate within 1°F. I honestly think you'll be fine leaving it in the stock location and just redoing the hoses. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Sounds to me like a bad connection at your Maf, or possibly a dirty maf. Have you tried cleaning it and seeing of it makes any difference? On my 87 it was both corroded connections and a dirty maf. When you put it back together be sure to put some dielectric grease in the plug to keep moisture out Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I usually use 2 extentions and a swivel to get my hands clear of the sharp lip of the panel that's right there, the tool kits are a breeze when the plug isn't stuck or extremely tight, plus you don't have to lean over as far to get a good angle. Then to put the new plug in I use a piece of fuel hose so it's easier swivel the plug around to get it started. That and antiseize on the threads Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Or be lucky and have a couple factory tool kits at your disposal [emoji14] But seriously if it hasn't been removed in a while it's a major PITA! Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

They're only there to cover the gap. They have to be removed in order to remove the bolt to replace it with the longer body lift bolt. I had a really hard time getting mine out as well and they all broke. I didn't bother trying to cover the whole back as I'll probably just cover it up with some gorilla tape when I remove the carpet to check seam seals and the back seat rust. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

If I had a longer cable I could use the old guide loop to keep it away from the muffler, or even a long spring to allow travel when the axle moves. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

The only place in my area that can make a set wants nearly $150 since "it's not a common request". Plus I'm not sure how much longer I need them to be. I'll measure hardbody cables when it stops raining and compare them and go from there. This still leaves the question about getting hung up on the exhaust though. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

As some of you a know I've lifted my pathfinder and I've run into more than a few problems due to the springs I chose to use. One big issue that I'm not sure how to get around is that the ebrake cable, even with them held in place where they'd be with drop down brackets, they are still too short. The other problem is, the driver side cable lays directly on the muffler and has very little room for slack and i dont want it to melt. If I were to stuff the passenger rear it would pull the cable tight due to the new angle of the axle. I'm debating on going to a smaller diameter muffler to free up some room for the cable as the current muffler is a replacement with the rear slip on section like walker or bosal but I don't know if that would be enough I've read that the hardbody cables are longer and are an easy replacement for the shorter pathfinder cable but I can't prove that yet seeing as I haven't measured the cables. I don't rock crawl but I'm going to need a lot of movement for some of the places I go to in the woods and I'd like to retain my ebrake. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

To add to this, from everything I've found and seen the only difference is the valve reliefs are deeper for the quest/ villager to "make it" non-interference. Everything else is pretty much the same beside the obvious parts for the van layout. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Stock VG30 cams are an "upgrade" to the stock vg33 cams if you're looking to save a bit of money or hassle of waiting on cams to show up. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Where the lines run on the underside of the hood there's small check valves before each nozzle, I've had those clog up tons of times and usually soaking them in hot water and then filling the resovoir with hot water and pumping it through helped clear them up. Other than that you could have a leaf in the tank blocking the pump inlet which is only the size of a dime. Lastly would be the pump but in my experience it's the former 2. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

How big does that measure? I'm interested in doing something like this on my rig for camping and fishing Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

What Koveman did in the link above is basically what I did except I placed the washers inside the hole after I enlarged it so I could weld the bearing race directly to the compression rod mount. Also I ground down the races so they were half as tall in height so they wouldn't pinch the edges of the bushing if a wheel were to fall into a hole or hang off of a ledge or something. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I beleive it's possible to do this without removing the control arm but I was replacing bushings when I did mine so I had a lot more room. Depending on your skills and the amount of damage done you could probably just fab a new cup and weld it on in a few places Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk