RCWD21

The Jeep springs with 8 coils don't offer much lift. You want the springs with 9 coils and a yellow tag. They've been proven to provide lift. The total amount depends on the final vehicle weight. I'm going with rough country 3 inch lift coils for a 98 grand Cherokee. Paid $30 from the JY along with a set of stock springs too. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

With loose terminals the draw from the starter trying to turn the engine over can exceed what the limited contact on the battery can handle. Nissans love a hot battery with clean and tight connections. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I planned to order 4 longer bolts for the superlift UCA's I purchased a few months ago but it had completely escaped my mind due to work and other projects. I know the stock length bolt is 50mm long. Should I go with a 60,65, or 70mm long replacement bolt? I guess if I buy the 70mm bolts and they're too long I could always cut them back a bit.. What has everyone else used? My frame is perfectly straight so I know it shouldn't take many more shims to get the alignment right when I installed the new arms, I'm just unsure of which length to go with. I've read of people using both the 60 and 70mm lengths but I also don't want to bottom the bolt out on the other side of the frame rail and damage anything. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Only thing I can think of is the actual actuator under the hood. It's got its own circuits and due to engine heat and being subjected to weather it could be the issue. Also check the connector under the hood going to it. I've had issues with corrosion there on my 240sx and 95 hardbody. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Looks to me to be the bolt that secures the rotor to the distributor shaft. That piece of plastic is probably the rib that is on the other side of the rotor opposite the bolt hole. Does the rotor free spin on the shaft? If it does then there's your problem. Replace the rotor and make sure the threads in the shaft are ok (more than likely are) and try to fire it up and see how it runs. *The later replies didn't load when I posted but I see it's already been stated. As for the single bang, what exactly do you mean by that? Like it back fires and then stops trying to start? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

You don't need to replace front shocks if you don't feel the need to. You're only changing the angle of the arms not the travel distance. The rear shocks will need to be upgraded to allow the extra travel distance due to the springs. I'm using front springs from a grand Cherokee in the rear of my pathfinder. You'll need to either bend out or cut off the pigtail for them to fit. There's a whole thread on the springs you want to get here on NPORA. You don't need to replace torsion bars either unless you feel the need to. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

The Taurus fan has a shroud around it, I mounted to directly to my radiator with a 70 amp relay for the slow speed and a 150 amp continuous duty (300 amp surge) solenoid for the high speed since I couldn't get a direct answer on current and amperage requirements for the fan. I also use a stand alone temp sensor for the controller. You can set it to come on and off to whatever temp you want. And there's also a connection that powers the fan on hi for when the AC is on. It can cool my temps down from 185 to 170 in about 45 seconds on the low speed for the fan. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I went to a Taurus fan on my 87 and I love it. I'm using a Digital Dakota fan controller though. Couldn't be happier with it even just for the simple fact that accessing the front of the engine is so much easier without the fan and shroud in the way. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Welcome to the Forum! Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

All of the v6 pathfinders came with 21 gallon fuel tanks. When I got low I could usually stuff around 16 gallons in the tank on top of what was left in the tank. The fuel system is designed in such a way as to leave a "reserve" so to speak so when it on E your fuel pump doesn't run dry and so you're not completely out of fuel. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I did more digging today and from reading on probably 15 different forums the cryomax radiators were known to have weird variations and defects in the molds (which come to find out is what's wrong with mine) and subsequently they're no longer in business. I'm just going to order a sunbelt radiator for $55 and enjoy a lifetime warranty and a quality product. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

The motorad radiator cap is T13R, it's the same style that I used on my Impreza that I sold to get this frontier. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

This is for a 2001 Frontier but that doesn't really matter since the radiator caps are the same spec for d/wd21's. My issue is this, I just purchased a new cap for the frontier since I was doing a timing belt/ water pump and coolant flush. The cap doesn't hold pressure. I have 3 caps and the only one that holds pressure is one that was causing overheating issues on my subaru impreza same issue as this but a new cap fixed it). All 3 caps feel too short except the one that seals slightly better, like they don't press down on the inner lip of the radiator neck correctly so they're not sealing fully. All 3 caps are .9 bar/ 13psi. All 3 tops can be wiggled like if the cap was just sitting in the hole. I can squeeze the upper hose and it feels empty but after I do it a couple times and it feels like the cap is finally resisting a bit. Is there a longer cap I should get or should I just go to the dealer? It's as if the radiator in the frontier (which is a cryo replacement) is different than a stock unit. 2 of the caps are a motorad brand and the other is what I believe to be a stock cal for a subaru. I know this probably doesn't make sense but I'd figure I'd post anyways seeing as someone here should be able to help. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Banged some more rust off of the under side of the rear seats and going tomorrow to pick up an 01' CC frontier. If it doesn't rain I'll be remove the rear seats and cutting rust out in prep for a storage area Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

If you remove the inner fender liner you'll be able to see a bracket sticking off of the main body that the base of the antenna slides through, there may or may not be an aluminum ground strap (looks like a twisted up strip of aluminum with eyelets on both ends). Other than that there's just a single screw that holds the plastic top down to the fender. If you're not able to seat the antenna base flush with the fender you're not through the hole in the bracket mentioned above. Hope this helps! Been awhile since I've been on here due to work Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I installed a snorkel today and only used 1 elbow! This is the snorkel you'll find on ebay for about $200. For anyone looking at these I HIGHLY recommend paying a couple extra $$ and getting the one with a template. I'll make an install thread on this later in the week when I take more pictures. Enjoy! Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I don't think it would restrict it too much but if you're in the search for power any increase in flow would help on the intake side of things at least. Sent from inside my potato

Do you have an auto or a manual transmission? If it's a manual it could be an input shaft bearing that has gone bad or even something wrong with the clutch. Have you tried popping the hood and revving it while you're standing there to see if anything stands out? It could be on my end but that almost sounds like a metal on metal whirring noise like a bad bearing would make. One easy spot to check is your AC idler pulley bearing, if you can wiggle it at all then it's starting to go bad. I've seen them go bad to the point where the pulley itself started rubbing on the bracket behind it and making a similar noise. Another possibility is a failed power steering pump bearing, they make a horrible racket when they go bad. Does it make any resemblance to the noise just idling or is it only when revving it up? Sent from inside my potato

I've only ever replaced them if they're obviously bad, just make sure everything is clean and put a little grease in the seal groove so it's not dry and you should be ok. Sent from inside my potato

Got my snorkel in a couple days ago. Actually came with stainless steel hardware is for $170 is pretty fantastic quality! I'll be starting an install and review thread when I get the time to install it. Other than that I discovered a mouse making a home in my airbox today -.- Sent from inside my potato

I've used the EMPI brand on my old pathfinder and it came with grease as well so it may be the same kits you're looking at, but it's been a while. I had good luck with them, but with anything there's always going to be the possibility of some better product. Most of it comes down to user choice. I mean honestly I'd get the EMPI boot kits. Just take your time and make sure the cv axle is clean and work a little of the grease into the internal coupler piece (you'll see what I mean once you remove a boot) use all the grease in the kit. Don't be shy because it's the life of the cv axle. Sent from inside my potato

Boot kits on cv axles that are still in good shape and haven't had their boots torn or ripped off are a good choice if you don't mind disassembling the cv axle to replace the boot and regrease everything. If your boots are already torn open and dirt and grime have made their way inside then I'd contemplate going ahead and just replacing the axle as a whole. As for cv longevity I've had a 1990 pathfinder and it still has the original cv axles up front and I now have an 87 with original cv axles. Part time 4wd systems will usually have a longer life span than a system that is full time AWD due to the constant rubber fatigue. Sent from inside my potato

Have you tried adjusting your push rod for the brake booster? It's up under the dash and attaches to the brake pedal arm. That could give a soft pedal feel because it's not fully depressing the master cylinder. What do you mean by the grinding feel? Did you give the new pads time to seat with the rotors? One side could be partially glazed and the other side has seated more. As for a possible leak, check with a bright flashlight and a clean dark colored rag around all connections and hard lines for any weeping or dampness of any kind. Soft pedal could also be caused by air trapped in the system. I'm sure with it being an 02 model it has ABS and if there's air in the ABS module it'll sometimes freak out and cause harsh braking issues. Check for leaks, if no leaks are found, bleed the entire system following the FSM procedure and then check again. There's also a procedure in the FSM for checking the distance the brake pedal travels. Sent from inside my potato

The Vg33 throttle body opens opposite of a vg30, which also means the tps is different internally and has a different plug. The 2 are different sizes with the Vg33 throttle body being larger. What are you needing another throttle body for? Sent from inside my potato

They're incredibly simple pumps aren't they? The only fault is the seal between the pump and motor housing. The alcohol in the washer fluid breaks down the rubber and then it slowly leaks inside the motor. Once it gets hot under the hood the alcohol slowly evaporates and then the water that'd left rusts and corrodes the motor and also causes the small bearing to rust and seize. Sent from inside my potato