RCWD21

Since you say turning power off and on again works I'd would think that it's something with the TCU (it's located in the back passenger side wall inline above the rear tire), it could also be failing solenoids or crud build up and with the cold fluid it's able to push past the blockage at a higher pressure than it would with hot fluid. This is just speculation though but I would still check into the TCU and maybe even go to the junkyard and grab a spare and see if it makes a difference. As long as it's from a wd21 platform it'll work. Sent from inside my potato

People still tie into where the factory bumper would bolt up but the main holding point is where the tow hooks bolt to on the front of the frame. It'd be a good idea to use both locations to support your bumper so lateral forces are kept down so things don't bend or break off. Sent from inside my potato

Check the fusible links that come off the positive lead on the battery, they're there to help protect the system from mishaps just like having jumper cables or the battery hooked up backwards. As for the computer there's a small orange diode box behind the passenger side kick panel that is there to prevent backwards current from drying the computer, so it should be ok. Replacement links are available at a junkyard or through nissan depending on which way you want to go. When you say that some stuff comes on and some stuff doesn't what exactly is the stuff that comes on? Sent from inside my potato

Well I think I may just service the system either way to make sure there's enough oil in it and to also flush everything and install a new dryer, I see some oil build up around that area and it's rusty. Sent from inside my potato

Liquid vinyl dye works great, I've used it on a lot of weird craft things and it's help up well to hot and cold and being outside in general. I can't remember where you can get it but a quick search online should point you in the right direction. It's much tougher than a vinyl paint and once you wash it clear of excess dye it doesn't stain or spread to other objects, just make sure you only get it on what you want it on the first time and you'll do ok. Oh and wear THICK gloves that cover your arms as much as possible. Sent from inside my potato

These are from other members here on the forums that I saved to my phone a long time ago so credit goes to them but I'll be using these as inspiration for my front bumper build when I get everything sorted out. Sent from inside my potato

Sorry about no pics, I'll have to take a pic of my dad's d21 since I forgot that my clamp shell is also apart and now missing completely lol Sent from inside my potato

I looked at the coopers too but here in eastern NC we've got what we call sugar sand and it's like a powder, it's a little better after its lightly rained and all packed down a bit but it's a PITA sometimes. When there's a lot of rain it gets soupy and sticky so it's almost worse than regular mud. That's why I'm leaning towards the general grabbers because they seems to self clean better than the coopers. I have plenty of time to decide and save up for them so the more I can hear about them in the real world the better. Sent from inside my potato

I've been searching all over the place for an answer but I've never been able to find a clear answer to my issue. The culprit is a ticking noise coming from the AC compressor on my 87 pathfinder. It sounds similar to the ticking noise a turbine engine makes when it's spinning up and trying to inject and ignite the fuel. It ONLY does it from idle to roughly 1000 rpm and after that it doesn't make any noise except the normal click when the compressor clutch cycles on and off. I've read that it could be too much or too little refrigerant, a bad pressure valve, or a bad bearing or something just completely worn out interally. I can service my own system once I get the local shop to evacuate everything, and I plan on making sure the r134a swap is done correctly, I think someone only put the one adapter on to use the DIY cans and then just put the cap on and went on with it. I have a feeling that there's a mix of r12 and r134a in the system and that this is causing the issues but once I get done with it all it'll be done correctly. Anyways, I hope someone can help with my AC even though it's becoming winter time lol Sent from inside my potato

I don't see why you wouldn't have room for the strap too, you could always tack weld a plate in the middle to have 2 compartments basically that way everything doesn't get jostled around too much. And thanks for the link to the inverter, I think I may end up getting one just to have it for when I go camping and stuff. Sent from inside my potato

The white smoke could be oil that has dripped down from worn valve guides (my 87 smokes a puff here and there but it's also from new rings). It could also be from old stale fuel. Before pulling any fuel lines off though loosen your gas cap and pull your fuel pump fuse just incase there's pressure from you turning the engine over and energizing the fuel pump (the fuel systems on these rigs hold pressure for a pretty long time. Mine holds it for about 3 days). And the return line I'm talking about is the one that leaves the fuel rail from the fuel pressure regulator and returns to the tank. If it's MPFI it's the rear most line, if it's TBI it's easy to see with the airbox removed. And when I mentioned cycling the pump on and off I mean to turn the key to the ON position but not turning it over. Do that a few times until the fuel runs fresh. It helps remove the stale fuel from the fuel rail and it also give the engine clean fuel to be able to fire up on once you try to start it. Just don't forget to have someone hold the hose in the jug because of the fuel pressure, it may or may not try to escape the jug. Sent from inside my potato

I really like this, it could almost be used for a quick first aid station too, just pluck it up and you've got everything you need. Where did you get that inverter though? I found some on ebay that I think is what you have and was roughly $30 to $50. Sent from inside my potato

That little hose is fun isn't it? I don't think anyone on this forum like it's haha And it should be fine as long as the belt it tensioned correctly, I usually just try to get everything as close as possible to what the book says. With the belts I've used some felt overly tight when it was at the 4 o'clock position so I put it where I felt comfortable and have never had a problem. Sent from inside my potato

My dad has the bfgs on his d21 and my mom has them on her durango but for the size tire I'm after they're just a bit too rich for my blood. Plus the 2 brands in my first post are snowflake approved as I plan on driving from eastern NC to Northern Ohio and most of that journey is in the mountains and snowy areas. Sent from inside my potato

They will move due to the insane amount of pressure from all of the valve springs and them wanting to find a happy medium. I don't take any sprockets off, I just loosen the tensioner bearing nut (not sure if you're referring to that as a sprocket or not) but as long as the lines (make sure the belt is on the right way as most of the ones with the lines have a band of arrows that are more like a line of triangles that point out its proper orientation) line up with the dimples on the crank and cam sprockets. As long as the belt is on correctly and the lines line up you'll be ok. Also, it says to twist to 90° but honestly I think as long as it's close to that it'll be ok. Did you replace your water pump while you had the belt off? That's usually common practice but not do or die. It just really sucks to do a belt and have a water pump go bad or start leaking and getting antifreeze all over a new belt which causes the belt to deteriorate which could allow it to break at some random point. Sent from inside my potato

The oil pump is driven via the crank on the vg engines Sent from inside my potato

The vg30 crank will swap right in, basically the only difference between the 30 and 33 are the cams, crank, oil pump, and it's accessories like ac and power steering. The rest will fit. You can take everything from a vg30 and bolt it to a Vg33 block. There's a ton of info here on NPORA about it, just search Vg33 swap and have your mind boggled from everything. But what I really want is the Mr.510 crank adapter that he made so you can use a Vg33 crank with all the vg30 accessories. Sent from inside my potato

It's an NPORA rig but I found it on google. That is what it looks like, I like the look much better than the other style with the top hat. An aluminum snorkel sounds nice but what about if you get it snagged on something? Wouldn't it end up tearing into other things and not flexing or snapping like plastic would? Sent from inside my potato

Does anyone run either the General Grabber AT2's or the Falken Wildpeak A/TW3's in a 33x12.5r15 or similar size? Trying to decide on tires for when I upgrade wheels and tires after I wear down my toyo open country 31's and was hoping to find someone on here with real world experience in sand, sandy mud and loose pack earth mostly, along with road noise (not a huge concern with noise but just curious). Thanks in advance Sent from inside my potato

When the engine in my pathfinder gives up I'm going to swap in a Vg33 from a quest or villager so I have the larger displacement plus the deeper valve reliefs in the pistons so if the belt ever does break I can just spin everything around slap a new belt on and be on my merry way lol Sent from inside my potato

Moving the cams a tooth or 2 won't hurt anything but if you leave the cams where they are and rotate the crank you'll squish valves against pistons and it doesn't take much to warp a valve to the point of no compression (been there done that) the only safe way to turn the cams or crank with the engine assembled is to remove the rocker arms that way none of the valve are open. If you're only off by a tooth you can safely move the cam to where it needs to be. Just don't move the crank too much and triple check everything after you have the belt tight. Just remember that the dimples on the upper timing covers are more of a guideline and counting the teeth on the belt is the only reliable and foolproof way to know you've done it correctly. Sent from inside my potato

ATF doesn't contain as many detergents as people think. It's a hydraulic oil so it only has a limited detergent package for use in transmissions and power steering applications. When people use it as an engine cleaner via vacuum induction they think that all the smoke is carbon and gunk being burned off but it's not very much. Sent from inside my potato

The MPFI distributor is larger around and taller than one for a TBI model. Plus the valve cover has a dimple in it to clear the cap and the mount plate that bolts to the head is different. You can swap over to the newer style distributor but you'll have to dimple the valve cover, get a set of MPFI plug wires and for a few of the cylinders and the mounting plate for the base. There's a thread on it somewhere on here. I don't really see a benefit to the swap though, but some may argue differently. As for the crank position sensor I don't think they're different but they might be so double check. Sent from inside my potato

Synthetic oils don't shrink seals like a lot of people believe, they have a high detergent package and causes all the old crud that's sealing a worn seal to be removed and thus letting the oil leak out. I personally use penzoil snyncromesh in my transmission. It's cheaper than GL-4 oils in my area. It's in a yellow bottle and I really like it, smooth as butter. I've never used it in a transfer case but I don't see anything saying I can't. I mean you can use atf in there if you really want (factory filled on auto equipped models) Sent from inside my potato

If it hasn't been added to your list already I'd go ahead and replace the timing belt and accessory belts, check the power steering fluid (atf dex III is acceptable), I'd actually replace the coolant instead of just topping it off and while you're doing the timing belt go ahead and put in a new thermostat and water pump too. A fresh set of NGK (standard copper core is fine) plugs at the very least but I'd recommend a new cap and rotor and quality plug wires, I had a cheap set causing a misfire that drove me crazy. Also put antiseize on the plug threads. Check the front and rear differential fluids before driving it and also check the transfer case fluid. If it's an auto use atf dex III, if it's a manual you can use either atf or 80w-90. If you have a manual transmission use ONLY GL-4 spec gear oil (80w-90) or penzoil snyncromesh. 5.1L is what it takes and yes that's over filled for a reason, the early model (pre 97 or 98) FS5R30A transmissions had a problem with the fill hole being too low and not allowing enough oil to be filled and causing several bearings to run dry usually resulting in those bearings going bad and a roaring noise to be the result, usually present is all gears except 4th which is a 1:1 drive ratio and lower down in the oil. Easiest way to over fill it is through the shifter hole under the shift boot. If it's an automatic go ahead and bypass the stock cooler in the radiator and use the biggest cooler you can get. You can search the forum for transmission cooler bypass and find out exactly what you need to get. If the fluid isn't cherry red or pink and doesn't smell sweet I'd go ahead and replace it after you get it running, but for now at least make sure it's at the proper level. Low fluid in an auto is asking for trouble. Also replace the fuel filter since it's likely deteriorated. To clear the lines of any old fuel, run a hose from the return line on the fuel rail into a gas jug and have someone hold the hose in the jug since fuel pressure is around 46psi I believe. Just cycle the pump on and off a few times but don't turn it over. It'll help get fresh fuel up to the rails instead of trying to force it to run on old fuel. Also try and stay away from ether/ starting fluid, too much with a backfire and you'll have a nasty fireball on your hands or face if you're in the area. That's all I can think of for now, I know it's more than just "put some fresh gas in it and fire it up" but this is what I'd do if I were in your spot, I'm a bit anal about maintenance especially if a vehicle has been sitting for as long as you say yours has. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk