RCWD21

I figured I'll just run both grounds together and then run the rest of the harness based on 2 seperate positive wires sort of like a 2 speed 3 wire fan. I think I have that right but I'm still not sure since most of the posts I find are "hey I got this fan and hooked it up and it works great" most people fail to detail their install/experience. Or the pics of everything are no longer hosted so I have to guess Sent from inside my potato

Well the icebox is a bit pricey but I like it. I'm still confused how I'd wire the fan up since it requires power to both sides of the fan fires to have the 2nd speed turn on. I've never attempted this before so please excuse my confusion, I just want to be able to set it up, fine tune it, and not have to worry about overheating or frying fan motors. Sent from inside my potato

I got a fan out of a 98 DOHC maxima yesterday and both motors work. I hooked a battery up to the wires (found a write up over on infamousnissan with the same fan and wiring colors with a hand drawn diagram) he states that these are 2 speed fans but wired up like he has them the fans are the exact same speed regardless of which side you pick to power. The only way I can get to the high speed setting is by attaching BOTH the power wires together for both sides of the motor. So both positive wires together and then the ground by itself. There's a huge difference between the speeds but where I'm confused at is how am I going to achieve the high speed setting with this fan with a controller? The controller I'd like to use is the derale 16795. It states it can control 2 fans but I don't see it saying anything about 2 speed fans. From what I understand I need a controller that can run a low speed and a high speed without cutting off one of the speeds since this fan needs both positive leads powered at the same time to achieve the high speed setting. I "think I have it figured out though? But I'm going to keep digging and see if I can make more sense of everything.. Sent from inside my potato

Have you checked the fluid level or the condition of the fluid yet? Have you also checked to make sure none of the cooler lines are pinched or clogged? Also, does it shift better if you start in 1st and manually shift all the way to drive? Sent from inside my potato

Since I'm working in my parents driveway I don't know how well a sand blaster would go over. I'm buying a welder tomorrow so once I find some sheet metal to go back in I'm going to weld it up and reroute the sunroof drains on both sides and then fill the area up with oil and let it soak in. Or I might seal and undercoat the inside as far up as I can. As for the rockers I'm leaning more and more towards replacing the entire length with tubular steel to also help reinforce the one body mount location. Plus I can weld directly to the new rocker for when I start messing with that mount. The area below the body line is going to be sealed and have bedliner applied.

I took pics of the underside around the body mounts and the passenger side fender well area. Drivers side: Looking up inside of the cut out on the drivers side: Passenger side: Passenger side wheel well. It's almost as bad, you can see the dirt in the seam Sent from inside my potato

Today I went to town and finally cut out 2 pieces of the rocker panels on the driver side. The area behind the rear tire is very manageable and I'm not stressing that too much. What I am stressing is the area in front of the rear wheel and up the front of the wheel well heading towards what appears to be either a seat anchor or a seat belt anchor point (plate with a nut welded to it viewable by looking in the rear wheel area on the body itself). It's right in line with the body mount bracket that is welded to the body itself. It was previously covered in an epoxy of some sort but whoever did it just slapped it over rust and went on their way... The rockers on both sides have various holes in them. The drivers side is the worst but at the body seam on the passenger side the metal is very thin almost like a soda can. I was banging on it with the side of my fist and it crumpled. It appears that someone sanded the area and tried to stop the rust but it didn't do any good. I tried naval jelly today and it didn't even touch the rust, it worked on the exhaust though![emoji35] I have a spray bottle of ospho (phosphoric acid type rust converter) and it helped a little bit. I'm going to get a can of zinc spray paint and paint all inside of where I have cut open once I weld in new material to hopefully prevent future rust from forming. I've never attempted body work so any tips, tricks, pointers, or advice is greatly appreciated. Hopefully I'll be able to prevent this from turning into swiss cheese more than it already is until I can find a "less rusty" 2 door body to swap to.. I live on the east coast of North Carolina so salt isn't as bad as other states it's just always here year round in the air! The rear most area: Up inside: The rust from inside the rocker panel after hosing it out and picking and scraping.: The area on the inside of where the body mount is: Inside the fender well area where the epoxy "patch" was: And finally the sunroof drain which I think is the entire cause of the rocker panels on wd21's rotting out. One the body drain hole is clogged with dirt it becomes the perfect area for rust to form. I'm debating on just cutting it all out and welding in some 3"× 2" tubing with caps on the end to reinforce the area but funds are very limited and motivation is slowly depleting as I discover more issues with this, most of which have already been fixed though. I have no idea how much metal I'm going to have to cut out when it comes to the rear seat area but I think I'm going to use a very large plate of steel and weld it in as best I can.. I want this rig to be as water tight as possible because of some of the places I go camping/ fishing. Also, mods if this is in the wrong section please feel free to move it. I posted here due to the nature of this repair and I'll be detailing my repairs until complete (also so I can match it up to the passenger side ) Sent from inside my potato

Well for an example of how slow it is, I could run it at 2k rpm once it's warm and it took about 2 or 3 minutes to reach roughly halfway on the scale. I know I have plenty of oil pressure since all the oil passages were flushed with a solvent and any cruddy build up was burnt out with a propane torch and then scraped and probed. A long with a brand new oil pump, with the oil cap off you can see oil running off the lifters within seconds of it starting. I always wondered why the Explorer gauge never really moved much, now that I know it's pretty set to stay in the middle it makes me wonder how many are driving around with low oil pressure and people don't even realize it Sent from inside my potato

Well I picked up a big can of electronics cleaner today so at some point when I get where I can breathe a bit with this thing I'll pull the cluster back out and take it apart and make sure everything is clean and free to move. I have a 30w soldering iron with a very fine tip so if anything needs to be reflowed that won't be a problem either. I'd imagine 30 year old solder connections could be a bit cold by now. Sent from inside my potato

Xterra- I think when I go back out there again (it was over 110° today and the heat started getting to me pretty fast, I'm going to get another sunroof and a shade or 2 or 3. As for them fitting I wasn't sure because I can never remember to bring mine with me to compare It's nice to know that they didn't change the size of the glass throughout the years and even used it on some later models. There's even a rolled 93 pathfinder in the yard I went to and the glass is still intact, I don't know how but it is. Pathyandthejets- my gauge never reads anywhere near that high when warming up, could be because of the hot weather or just a really slow gauge but I just wish it moved a little faster than it does. I prefer electronic gauges due to the issue of having to run an oil line into the cab, I've had a bad experience with one like that in my old 240sx with a high pressure pump, let's just say I had to buy new shoes... Sent from inside my potato

Got a new bracket from a 94 pathfinder and put it on, the holes and basic shape of the bracket are the same but the difference is where the cutouts are. On an r50 they're a little further forward and the neutral stop is larger, where as on a wd21 the neutral stop is smaller and the 4L slot is smaller and the slots are a little further towards the back hole. That's why I couldn't get into 4L and it's also why it was so easy to pop into 4H from 2H. I was going to take pics of the difference but I just wanted to install it and be done with my shifting problems. Now to just deal with a whole lot of rust and get a maxima fan installed and I should be ok for a while Sent from inside my potato

I've been searching a ton lately for a couple things about an 87 pathfinder. Question 1 is: What year(s) sunroof will fit? Mine is missing the threaded anchor for the sun shade and the outer most lip is all torn to pieces and I can get an intact one from the JY cheaper than a new outer rubber trim. I've read that 87 to 92 is the same size but I have a feeling that it's due to some confusion on someone's part in the thread. Also are the sun shades all the same size? There's tons of them in the junkyard I'm going to tomorrow, if they're all the same I can get them for around $5 a piece so I'll probably get a few of them. Question 2 is: I've got the oil pressure gauge in my cluster with a brand new sending unit screwed into the block, should the gauge change readings very slowly or should it be faster than that? On a cold start it never reaches anywhere near 40psi because the engine is already warm (the upper hose is already getting hot within a couple minutes) it moves all the way across the scale when testing the gauge by itself but it's just so slow and I'd like to have it more faster. My plan was to remove the cluster for the millionth time since I've owned this thing and clean the gauge out with maf/ tuner cleaner or some other electronics safe cleaner to see if that helps free it up some incase it's a deal of old hardened grease. I also read somewhere that it's more of a "yes the pump is working" sort of thing and it won't really keep up until there is a very steady rpm where the pressure remains constant enough for the gauge to catch up to. Sent from inside my potato

Well I'm going to the junkyard tomorrow, anything I should pick up besides my long list? I can get a whole brush gaurd with the headlight hoops for $30 [emoji14] I'm thinking of getting it just because it's intact and unbent Sent from inside my potato

I'm aware of that, what I'm having an issue with is the interior accordion boot trying to push the lever from 2H back into 4H (I may have found part of my problem today while looking at pics online) and I'm also dealing with the bracket, pictured above, not allowing me to fully shift into 4L. Without the bracket in place my only issue is with the interior boot. Hopefully using all the parts from a 93 or 94 wd21 will solve my issue. If I have to I'll pull apart a transfer case in the junkyard to see what all is involved with the "firmness" of the 2H to 4H engagement. As of right now I'm leaning towards it being the boot giving it that extra little push sort of like a spring assist and also that all the pivot points and linkages are fully greased and free of any crud. Sent from inside my potato

Well today I was driving it around the block without the engine fan on and when I pulled into my driveway and shut everything down the lower hose popped on me. It was an old hose from the junkyard so it was definitely weak. If you squeezed it you could hear the cords inside popping and it felt crunchy. It ripped open like a zipper so I know it was from a bad hose. My temp gauge never moves over the 1/4 mark and I suspect part of this is from me using hondabond on the threads of the temp gauge sender so I'm going to pull that out when it cools off and take a wire brush to the threads. When you ground the gauge wire it slowly moves all the way over to the hot mark. I have a 170° thermostat so that may be the reason for the low reading on the gauge too but I'm not sure. Either way I'll have to rebleed the coolant system Sent from inside my potato

This is for the 96 r50 pathfinder. I would assume they're different since it's a completely different part number from the 86 listing, makes me want to get to the JY even more now just to see if they're different and in what way.

So I looked up the part number for the bracket I'm dealing with. And it seems that over the years that they made different brackets, for what reason I don't know but it got me curious.

I'm beginning to think that it's because the bracket that's causing some of my issues, which I'll know for sure when I have a 100% wd21 bracket to lay next to it. Plus I can check out a couple different transfer case shifters in the JY to see about their ease of use from 2H to 4H. As for the leverage issues with centerlinks, I've bent and broken bushings in a couple idler arms before I ever ruined the centerlink, not sure how but it was enough to let it scrape grooves in the frame rail. As for the 87 it needs an alignment horribly bad. You can let go of the wheel and it turns to the left and then pulls to the left really badly. And the ride is really wobbly and squishy feeling too. Sent from inside my potato

Is that a manual or auto transmission in yours? Yours looks like an automatic with the plate showing in the top of the pic. I remember the automatic bracket being taller than the one I have but it wouldn't fit on the manual transmission that I have in there now, it was too short for it. I'm hoping that it'll be something easy, I'm going to look at the transfer case of the r50 I pulled everything from and see if the bracket is or isn't there. Luckily it's still in the yard. When I use a pair of channel locks on the input shaft arm it takes quite a bit of pressure to shift it through all the clicks. I think with it going from 2H to 4H using the actual lever that there's a better leverage advantage taking place and since everything is squeaky clean and all greased up its just easier to move. Sent from inside my potato

I may have just figured out part of my problem. I'm having to think back to when I pulled the donar transmission for the swap.. it was from a 96. I THINK I used that bracket as the bracket on the auto was different.. I've read that the r50 brackets are different but what the guy posted doesn't look anything like my bracket. It looks more like a C orE shape.. Ugh I hate being rushed, which is what happened when we were getting parts.. Sent from inside my potato

Slartibarfast when you put yours in 4H can you put 2 fingers on the knob with your palm above it and just move your fingers back and it just pop right into 4H? Also after looking at things, I think the bracket may be the wrong one since it isn't allowing it to go into 4L, it just grinds away. Without that bracket in place all selections work correctly. But I'll know more later this week when I get more parts. Sent from inside my potato

When I go to the junkyard I'm going to get another boot (since it's blue), the plates, the shifter and the bracket, the carpet since it's cut different for an auto, and a shifter from a hardbody since I'll be doing a 3 inch body lift at some point. If that doesn't work then I don't know what will and I'll be more confused than ever. My dad has a 93 hardbody and I'm going to see if the shifter is just as easy to put into 4H as it is in mine. Hopefully it's just something I'm overlooking and it'll be an easy fix Sent from inside my potato

Here is the bracket that I currently have. Sent from inside my potato

It just worries me that it's so easy. It's the original transfer case so it might just be worn out but I'm thinking of putting a shim in where the shifter bracket is just to make it drag a bit so it's not so buttery smooth. The transfer case itself has solid clicks when shifting it but the selector shaft so I'd imagine a 30 year old spring is probably softer than new.