RCWD21

I've never noticed an increase in power with a drop in filter or a cone filter. And with the cleanable filters I've always had to clean my maf much more frequently and after a while it got annoying because the cone filter I had wouldn't hold the oil in place. It would always run down and drip off no matter how little oil I used. Personally I'd stick with a standard paper filter. With it being an offroad vehicle I've never liked the thought of having an open element air filter under my hood, but I don't know if you off road or not. Sent from inside my potato

In the ignition theres a steering lock with a pin with a spring behind it and it pops into a hole in the steering shaft in the column and holds it in place when the wheel is centered just right to allow the holes and pin to line up, and since the holes only line up with the wheel in the "center" position, you could have the wheel turned one full revolution and it would lock the wheels themselves at an angle like you're describing above. Sorry for the long winded post btw, just want to make sure it's as clear as possible. Sent from inside my potato

Just as an option if money is an issue, there's a set of skyjacker hydro shocks (2"-4" of lift) on ebay for $200. I'm not sure how much you're lifted though but that might possibly save you some money. Here's a link to them if you'd like to take a peek at them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/142032094002 Sent from inside my potato

I ran through a pair of Monroe shocks in about 3 months/ 6k miles on and off road. They rode super soft and we're almost unsafe at times especially under hard/ emergency braking. They were comfortable on smooth road but anything other than that I despised them. I got them for Christmas so I couldn't really say no to them though. Sent from inside my potato

If you have no luck in your area I'm heading to the junkyard again in a few days so I could grab you one or 2 since I still have some credit there and send them to you if you'd like. PM me and we can figure something out. Sent from inside my potato

It's 1 5/8" hose, but I'm going to let the company I ordered the kit from remedy the situation before I spend anymore money than I have to. I emailed them on Monday and haven't heard anything back yet but hopefully I will tomorrow. If I don't hear anything around lunch time I'm going to call them. I have $300 worth of parts coming in at the end of the week and beginning of next week so the body lift is on hold for a few more days. Sent from inside my potato

Since the rear bumper and associated parts seem a little scarce online, here's a link so you can pick out exactly what parts you need so you can get part numbers, it should take you directly to a 1995 pathfinder: http://parts.nissanusa.com/nissanparts/index.cfm?action=replacement&groupid=K&sectionid=850&jointvehid=9137&siteid=14 Sent from inside my potato

Oh and this came in today, it's just missing the filler hose extension [emoji35] Sent from inside my potato

I removed a set of FN .56 springs today from a 97 or 98 JGC Laredo with the v8. I had no help so I was on my own. I almost left a few times because I couldn't get the springs out and I broke a ton of bolts (this jeep was a heep) but then I found a few scissor jacks. The first one crumpled like a tin can and then I found this little guy. FYI the passenger side spring comes out easier than the drivers side does. I'll let the pic speak for itself though [emoji16] [emoji56] Sent from inside my potato

In addition to James's comment above mine: If you're going to start using a catch can make sure it is a baffled design catch can, the cheap ones are hollow and just allow most of the oil mist to go straight through. If you use a hollow style can, put some thick steel wool inside of it if you can to give the oil mist something to cling to. Oh and don't get one with the level indicator tube on the side, they will leak eventually and make a huge mess, just check/ drain the can (depending on design used) every or every other oil change and you should be good to go. Sent from inside my potato

I think what's going on here is an wiring problem from old age and from then engine heat causing wiring and insulation to get stiff and brittle. I've had a few wires on my old 95 hardbody break internally and giggling wires made them reconnect temporarily. Or, your iacv is dirty and needs to be removed and cleaned, when they get dirty they can do funny things. It's just a needle type valve and a spring and when you tap on things it let's the spring pop the valve past whatever is causing it to stick. I hope this helps as it's been a while since I messed with a MPFI pathy. Sent from inside my potato

Well my body lift came in today! But I'm missing the gas filler hose extension piece! What would a good substitute be for that piece? I was going to get one of those slip fit joint pieces in the exhaust isle at the local parts store since I don't want to wait for suspension connection to send me one. And after 4 hours by myself I managed to get a set of FN .56 JGC springs.. hopefully they do what I want otherwise I'm getting the lift coils off the one in the very back from the JY. I think next week I'm ordering the snorkel and a brand new taurus fan.

I will just as soon as I get the body lift on so I can take some measurements for the tubing! I'm just very cautious with the money I spend because I like to get as many things as possible done right the first time [emoji14] Sent from inside my potato

I found one person on this forum after broadening my search on here that is using the snorkel I've been looking at. It's much larger that I thought, link: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?/topic/40182-54's-92 Sent from inside my potato

Well the more I look the more I'm getting cold feet on its snorkel.. it's only $180 but I still can't tell just how big it is. Everyone seems to be running the ram air type snorkel and I don't want to pay $400+ for a piece of plastic.. and at the same time I don't like how the 3 inch exhaust tubing looks. It looks to be about 2"x3" near the air inlet at the roof line but along the A pillar is a different story because I can only find one close up pic and it's from the outside at an angle. I can't find any top views or any from the side. Along the fender appears to be the same as the ram air type snorkels. I still think it would work for the vg30 and the only reason it's listed as td27 only is due to the plumbing from the snorkel outlet to the air box, but I'm not sure since I can't find anyone with a vg30 powered pathy or hardbody that's using this design. I contacted ARB to see what they had to say about it since they were the original sellers of this design. Their part number is SS700HF but this same snorkel can be found under SND21A on Google and ebay. Would anyone mind looking it up and letting me know their opinion of it please? Sent from inside my potato

I discovered that after scrolling through their site and finding the same pic on a few other listings. But either way that looks like a pretty robust UCA for whatever it may fit. Sent from inside my potato

Looking online the price for a new one from a nissan parts site is $135. I think the easiest solution would be to just head to a local u pull it and grab one and ask to see if you can test it out on your vehicle. Prices in my area are only around $12 since they consider it a relay. And $12 sounds a whole lot better that $135 to me! Sent from inside my potato

The solution is to replace the box, I usually just go grab one off a donar vehicle. Anything wd21 or d21 will work as long as it has that box. Check around online though if you absolutely want "new" it shouldn't be more than $60 max. Sent from inside my potato

It's the wiper amplifier relay box on the motor itself. It's orange, sorry for the bad pic it's raining right now. Go look at your wiper motor and you'll see it. It's what controls the wiper speeds and the intermittent function. Also the probability of it being a switch is very low since you say your wipers still work but when you turn them off they stay where ever they are on the windsheild. That points to that little orange box in the pic below. Hope this helps! Sent from inside my potato

I looked at the specs for both the Td27 and the vg30, gathered up the info I needed for each engine and found a cfm calculator for IC engines. The Td27 required 4795 litres of air per minute at 4k rpm with a cfm of 169. The vg30 required 4794 litres per minute at 4k rpm with a cfm of 169 also. I'm not sure how accurate that calculator is BUT I tried it with a higher maximum rpm value for the vg30 and it went up to 212 cfm and 5996 litres per minute at 5k rpm and at 6k rpm it went all the way up to 254 cfm and 7190 litres per minute. Again I don't know how accurate this calculator is so I don't trust it 100%. I don't see myself ever even reaching over 4k rpm while the snorkel is hooked up seeing as most of my deep water driving is slow moving since there's a lot of debris from fallen tress and stumps and things. So I believe that this particular snorkel will provide plenty of air flow for when I'm using it. Sent from inside my potato

Precise1, I did some more digging and I found this little chart for the snorkel I'm getting (SND21A is the model of it from a bajillion different manufacturers lol) [emoji14] Just thought I'd post my findings here incase anyone else was curious as to the snorkel I've been eyeballing since I found it. The two reasons I like it are it hugs the line of the A pillar/ roof. And I can't break it off like I've seen done with a normal top mounting hat type like you normally see on jeeps.[emoji16] Also why are jeep snorkels only like $100 but ours are way more expensive??[emoji35] Sent from inside my potato

The distributor is going to be sealed with a very tight layer of electrical tape around the seam and the vent is going to have a vacuum nipple cover thing put over it. I'm going to check the local hardware store and see if they have any high density peel and stick foam stripping to try with the outer seal, they've got larger rubber washers that I'll grab for the wing nuts and studs. Last night I found water tight 3 inch flexible tubing to run from the air box intake to the outlet from the snorkel for about $30, there's cheaper stuff but the ends aren't molded to the actual tubing so it's not water tight and I don't want to half ass it trying to seal it up either. Any idea why the engine would run better with the airbox cover off though? It flutters when you're over 2k rpm. It's got new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, everything you can think of. Only thing I didn't have does was have the injectors cleaned. I'm going to try some fresh fuel to see if it clears up. Oh and it randomly burns oil for just a second or two and then stops smoking. It's done that twice so far, I haven't driven it enough to even begin seating the rings. It's only got 3 miles on the rebuild and that's from the shop to my house and then around the block here and there to keep things moving. Sent from inside my potato

I don't know if this got double posted thanks to tapatalk so if it did admin please delete the other one Sent from inside my potato

Anyone have any ideas on sealing up the TBI air box on a vg30i? I know how to take care of the hot air mix door and it's associated intake tube but what I'm more worried about is the studs and around the top and bottom of the box. Obviously silicone would work but I don't want to have to remove it all every time I go to change the air filter or have to work on something under there. My original seals are still fairly flexible, though they have shrunk some from fuel and heat but they're contact cemented back in place as best I could get them, they're sealed all the way around but just not in a perfect circle. I was thinking of using some 3 inch wide electrical tape and wrap it around the seam but the clips are in the way. Another option would be to pull the seals out and use some universal D shaped weather stripping to have a tighter seal around the outer lip. I could just use black rtv for the box to tbi seal since it's small. What are your thoughts? I know someone has done this in the past but I can't find anything here on the forum about it I think it was Grimgregg? I'm not sure though. I'll be ordering my snorkel in a few weeks, but it won't be installed until the body lift is on so I can have enough room for the plumbing to be run comfortably. Sent from inside my potato

My 3 inch body lift will be here friday, I'll be going back to the junkyard to get a set of springs to lift the rear and then I'll be saving up for upper control arms to complete the lift. Sent from inside my potato