RCWD21

Well I know for a fact that one of them is burnt to a crisp from something happening at one point. It's the one behind the battery. The connectors for that link have been severely overheated from too much current but there are no other damaged wires anywhere on the vehicle that I can find. The links that go to the batter terminal were brittle and they don't look anything like what I have on mine. Mine were just 3 wires that went straight into a clip that joined everything together for the positive lead. Sent from inside my potato

On the us spec models, Left: AT temp warning light and cruise control system on, cruise control set. Right: rear defrost on, 4x4, and I believe maybe one other? Those are all I can remember. But I don't see why they'd be any different than a European model. The AT temp light will cycle on with the key like some of the dash lights do. One cruise control light will come one when you flip the cruise control switch, the other cruise light will obviously only come on when you set a speed. Everything on the right side is pretty self-explanatory lol *** And after posting this I realized it was for a 94 and not a square dash model! My bad! The positions of the lights in the dash will be different but they'll still function in the same, except the cruise control light with the switch, on the round dash the light is in the switch itself. Sent from inside my potato

Push in on the rod, pour fluid in resovior and hold finger over the output hole, then slowly release.. You've got 2 small areas that need to be filled with fluid. Once they're filled it'll pump. When you're bench bleeding it you have to mimic the suction that it would normally see when the slave cylinder bleed bolt is shut Sent from inside my potato

Try bleeding the system to make sure there's no air in it. I had this issue just before the slave cylinder went bad on my 240sx. With the pedal staying down to the floor it's either low fluid which let's air in, or a bad master or slave clyinder. Pull the boot back on the slave cylinder and make sure it isn't leaking. If there's any fluid it needs to either be replaced or rebuilt. To check the master cylinder stick your hand up under the dash and feel around the shaft. If any area is leaking the possibility of air getting in is there and that's what's causing your problem. Air compresses brake fluid doesnt. Sent from inside my potato

Well to anyone watching I finished installing the fan Just as a note before reading 1: the fan can cool the engine down from 175 to 165 in about 15 seconds on low speed. It hovers around 170 to 172 with no accessories on 2: I'm using a 40 amp maxi fuse with no problems, I will be trying a 30 amp to see how it does. I went with a dakota digital PAC-2750 fan controller with 70 amp relay, a brand new Ford taurus 3.8l fan, a 150 amp continuous duty solenoid with a 300 amp in-rush capacity, 14/5 multi conductor wire to run to the controller, 10/3 multi conductor wire to run to the fan and an inline maxi fuse holder for the fan. I installed the solenoid on a small area on the power steering resovior and used a couple nissan bolts (the ones that are phillips head) to hold it down securely. Continuous duty solenoid for the high speed: Dakota Digital 70 amp relay for low speed: Temp sending unit in an aluminum coupler grounded to the upper radiator support: I'll have to take some pics of where the controller is mounted later. And I have yet to install the free-wheeling diodes but that will only take a few minutes to do even though the fan doesn't seem to produce a current when the power is removed and it is still spinning under its own inertia. In addition to this I installed a 125 amp quest alternator (v41 model I believe, '98 or '99) with a 4 gauge wire run to the positive lead on the battery. The battery by the way is a group 65 with 850cca. I also installed a 3 inch body lift and discovered even more rust and caked on mud.. I installed the alt using an unaltered factory bracket and and longer belt (part #17380 from drive-rite), the only modification I had to do to the alt was to remove the lip on the front face so the pulley (from 90+ wd21 alt) could seat correctly and I had to use a washer under the nut. The belt lines up perfectly and there is plenty of room for belt adjustments. I'll take more detailed pics of the installation later. The factory belt "could" be used but the head of the bolt would need to be trimmed down to clear the belt (an option for an trail spare if the belt were to ever break) 125 amp alt installed: Before body lift: After body lift: Sent from inside my potato

The positive terminal/ fusible link block on my 87 pathfinder started giving me problems a little while ago but I was able to get the connector in just the right spot so they'd make connection internally. Since I won't be able to use the stock terminal anymore (already removed it to install ring terminals, what size fuse would be a suitable size replacement? I have a fusible link block from a vw bug that has 3 slots for standard spade fuses with a max capacity of 30amps. The links range from 40/50 amps to 150 amps. I was thinking of running the 3 small wires to this block or even a small dedicated fuse block since I know there needs to be some sort of current protection on the positive terminal and harness. I currently have 8 or 9 rung terminals on the positive post on my battery. They range from a new 4 gauge wire from the alt to the power supply for the taurus fan and fan controller. It looks like a stack of washers and isn't the prettiest out there but it works and is stable at 14.3 volts at idle and 14.0 volts with all possible accessories on high. Just looking for a good replacement so I don't fry something in the future. Sent from inside my potato

I'm not saying it does, I'm just saying that with my luck a little too much water would get pulled in to a cylinder and then I'd hydrolock then engine. Not to mention when I do a job like that it's usually so bad that it requires disassembly anyways. Sent from inside my potato

When I've pulled the engines out of my pathfinders I've never had any problems getting it past the front diff. Both were automatics too. It helps to have one of those load leveler things and have the engine tilted forward a bit to bring the rear of the engine up. An inch or 2 was all I needed. Also double check that everything is actually undone, check to see where you're hitting and if you have to, do what I did and just take it off. Sent from inside my potato

In my mind and from personal experience, the only one true way to clean carbon is to physically remove it. Water injection/ chemicals will remove some of it but they take a very long time to clean everything and even then there's still bits and pieces they'll never get as clean as a hands on approach. Sent from inside my potato

With a lift your front shocks will be fine but your rears will need to be longer to accomplish full suspension travel. Sent from inside my potato

Sounds good, hopefully it's just years of grime taking action lol Sent from inside my potato

I just remembered something and it may or may not make a difference. The cross member I used was from the original 3 speed auto. I'm not sure if there's a difference between the mount points on a 3 speed vs a 4 speed but that could be a factor too. What I do know though is that putting it on backwards and trying to figure out why everything won't line up at 12 am makes for a lovely night. Sent from inside my potato

I had to do the same thing with mine. But it's really only about a 1/4" and once everything gets hot and the rubber relaxes it should be fine. New mounts are always going to be super stiff at first. Also remember that it may not line up 100% since you've installed new mounts. Manufacturers usually differ a little bit from an oem part so they will never be exactly the same. Sent from inside my potato

Before: After: Ignore the mess, I'm also putting in a taurus fan while simultaneously trying to repair some deep body rust due to neglect from previous owners. I found a metal fuel line covered in rust. Under the back seats was a "hey let's just cover this hole with foil tape and call it a day" fix, it will become a storage area seeing as it's easier for me to weld straight lines than having to form curves and such. Sent from inside my potato

You're welcome, I did what you're about to do and it gave me a headache lol Sent from inside my potato

Do you mean a 3.3? And are they the same transmission code? If so it should be a bolt on and plug in process Sent from inside my potato

Hopefully it's just something simple, it could even be a loose connection so when you have the cluster out check all of the screws to make sure they're tight but don't over tighten them or you could damage one or more of the gauges. Sent from inside my potato

Here's a thread with the part numbers and a good pic showing what wires go where. If you need more info just search "instrument cluster voltage regulator". https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Enissanpathfinders%2Enet%2Fforum%2Findex%2Ephp%3F%2Ftopic%2F23512-Voltage-Regulator-for-Gas%2FTemp-gauge&share_tid=23512&share_fid=45554&share_type=t Voltage Regulator for Gas/Temp gauge Sent from inside my potato

Did you happen to disconnect your battery during this job? I've left my key on ACC before and reconnected the battery and the surge of current through the system popped a weak fuse. Check your fuses and if it's not that then I'd suspect it's the little voltage regulator piece on the back of the cluster causing your issue. Replacing an ignition coil would never cause gauges to stop working like this seeing as it only works when the engine is running. Sent from inside my potato

If you can remove the anti tamper bolts (not really that hard with the proper tools) you may be able to find out why it isn't locking. The spring is always compressed when the key is in any position besides OFF, I'm willing to bet that either the spring is sprung or that there's some crud/ a bur of metal or even a broken linkage in your ignition that's causing that pin to stay in the unlocked position. If you take it completely apart be careful though, I've taken tons of ignitions apart and they can sometimes be a pain to put back together. Sent from inside my potato

What are the small bolts that are in the the body lift kit for? I know some are for the safety hoop for the drive shaft, and some are for the bumper bracket pieces and there's a small one in there too, I'm guessing there will be spares? I just don't want to miss anything and after searching I can't find a definite answer. Sent from inside my potato

Here's a pic of mine with the auto trans cross member. There isn't a P on mine but that little notch you see is towards the front on mine. Sent from inside my potato

I have an auto trans crossmember in my 87 with a manual swap and it's just ever so slightly off center, like only 1/4 or less. When you do motor mounts try loosening the trans mount and the crossmember bolts and see if that'll give you some wiggle room to get everything lined back up. I had to do that when doing my swap and it helped a bunch, also the crossmember could be on backwards. I'll take a pic of mine in just a few minutes and see if mine has the same P as yours does. Sent from inside my potato

The pin could be damaged or stuck in the ignition itself, have you tried giggling the steering wheel and tapping on the ignition to see if it will pop free? Sent from inside my potato

Is it stuck in the locked position or will the wheel no longer lock? Sent from inside my potato