RCWD21

The title says it all bit I have good reason for this post! So don't kill me lol.. Anyways, I'm reading and searching A LOT for the write ups on installing different fans but most of the threads either have no pics anymore or dead links to the write-ups. The mechanical fan I have from the JY clutch is seized but it still allows me to run the engine without much worry besides all the noise. I've read out the quest fan (have one hidden at the JY just in case), maxima fan, stanza fan (only seen one mention of that), and a few mentions of the Grand caravan fan (never any description of how they had to modify it to fit). My big question is this though and it deals with the maxima fan, according to the nissan parts lookup the same fan assembly is used from 1987 to the newest 2017 models, Part number 21480-33E00 and part number21480-38E10, they bother apparent only fit manual trans cas but they have a different "speed". I believe the first one is F4 and the second is F5. The search tag number on parts.nissanusa is 21590. From searching people say to use the metal shrouded fan from the 87, it's the only year I see mentioned, there are a ton of newer maximas in my local JY I believe they're early 2000's since they're DOHC engines. Would the fan from one of these work? I'd like to use 2 seperate fans instead of just one big one to cut down on initial current load and such. Sorry for the really long post but I wanted to provide as much info as possible from my searches.

Actually I haven't seen that yet but now I have so there's no doubt about it anymore. Thanks for the pics I like direct information like this, helps my brain not second guess itself haha

Well now that I know what I'm looking for that should be an easy determination. Awesome it's still a parts list but it's nice to have specifics

I'm trying to figure out, after tons of researching, if I need to get the locker for the 2 pinion differential or the 4 pinion differential. It's an open h233b in an 87 pathfinder. I would assume I need the 2 pinion since it's listed for the albeit front differential of older model patrols. And the 4 pinion is listed with newer models. I don't want to tear open the case just to look since I just put new fluid in a while back. I want a locker in this rear end since I very quickly found the limits of the factory LSD that was in my 90 pathfinder with heavy toyo open country's.

Just an update on this since I haven't been on in a long time and I haven't really touched the 87 since around this post time. I found most of my running issues to be a few stuck linkages on the throttle body, tapping on them to free them up after soaking in some pb blaster was all it took. Here soon I will be doing some major work to it to get it back on the road and deep in the woods where it belongs.

I'm still thinking about buying a new maf since one of the hot wires is a little tweaked and the new one has a 10 year warranty with it

I got everything clean and I'm reading code 44. So it's all good now. Just need to replace one clip for the CHTS and I'll fill in the back of the maf plug will black rtv to keep future moisture out and problems to a minimum. The idle still hunts ever so slightly but it only appears to be about 50 to 100 rpm fluctuation. I've summed this up to either a warn but still working maf or a still slightly dirty maf even though I cleaned it with isopropyl and a q-tip very gently. It drives much better than before and its not in limp mode or anything

I got it running much smoother now. I cleaned every terminal I could find. For some reason the harness to the CHTS didn't have continuity. So I replaced the terminals with some from a Chinese scooter of all things but will be ordering a new sealed terminal clip for it. It runs much better and part of my idle problems were due to the fast idle linkage being seized and keeping the throttle butterfly open more than it should.

I did actually. To sum it up, the v6 and 4cly pathfinders and hard bodies use different lower hardlines. The 4cly uses a looping line that runs to the frame mount on the passenger side frame rail. The v6 has a mount in a different position that holds a different hardlines that runs around the frame rail. The rubber lines at the same though along with the slave cylinders and dampner and upper hard line. I'm searching for a v6 hardline if anyone has one? V6 manuals are scarse around here. But for now, I've just bent the hell out of the one for a 4cyl line to keep the rubber line away from the exhaust so its driveable.

I found 2 things today that could be related but I'm not sure (I'm still searching for an 87 fsm) but: 1. I can crimp the fuel return line and the idle goes up and it smooths off pretty much completely. 2: the only code stored in the ecu is 12, according to the pinned thread that's the code for the maf. So would the crimped return line be forcing the fuel through the injectors that it needs to actually run correctly because the maf isn't giving the proper signal to the ecu? I've cleaned the corrosion from the terminals as best I could but I'm going to replace the terminals with new ones as I believe the corrosion went past the terminal and is now between the wire strands and the metal terminal (I've dealt with this on sunk jetskis and it's not easy to find sometimes) Either way I'll be working on it more this weekend if it doesn't rain

From all the pics I've found the way the FPR was hooked up prior to me experimenting today was the correct way, but with my finger over that port (basically the highest port on the throttle body) I can't feel any "pull" with my finger over it. But when I put a line from the regulator to a vacuum port below the butterfly the idle will lower just a bit but it will eventually climb back up slowly. I'm struggling to get this to come down below 1k rpm idling. I'd like it to be around 750 to 800rpm. As for routing the vacuum lines, I'm only sure of a few of the lines. All of the others are from memory (trips to the junkyard 2 hours away) and from looking at pics on the Internet in hopes of finding the correct info. TBI is like my worst nightmare of a carburetor and fuel injection mixed into one lol. I need to find a very tiny mirror so I can see if possibly both injectors are firing instead of just one. It seems like the more fuel this gets the higher the idle will be up to a certain point and then it starts to chug and lope from loading up on fuel. I may even snag an ecu just to see. Would an ecu from a 4cyl truck run this engine? I have one and the connections look the same just not the mounting feet.

It actually idles the same with or without the airbox on. I got it to idle down low where I want it once today, but that was with the maf unplugged (going to be ordering a new one since I found one for cheap with a 10 year warranty) and the tps rotated counter-clockwise if you were in the drivers seat (going to be ordering one of those too since there seems to be a spot where it's worn out) but that low idle was the fact that it was running very rich to the point of black smoke coming out the exhaust. Most of the time with it idling it doesn't smell like it's running rich. It smells like a hot clean burning engine should. I've replaced every vaccum line on there, but today I started to suspect the cylinder head temp sensor connection was a bit iffy so I'm going to find a good injector pigtail to test with and order a new one with a quick release clip on it so in the future the plastic won't shatter so easily from removing the clip. Plus it's sealed better than the factory plug. Unfortunately I don't have access to a another maf yet, I'm going to be going to the junkyard at the end of the week to get my hands on a few different ones just so I have more than one to test with. Same with some throttle position sensors. I'm basically dealing with a backwoods know-it-all's left overs. This is the first time this engines seen life since december. Other than the fact that in my 2 mile drive home and all the testing I've done that's burnt a little less than a 1/4 tank it drives great minus the alignment and the flat spots in the tires.. All in all I'm just happy it runs and is somewhat drive able. I currently don't have the dash in so most of the wires are looped up with all the switches plugged in so I could at least get it home from my dad's shop.

I'm looking to replace my tps on my 87 pathy since the terminals were corroded (now cleaned as best I can) and there seems to be a bit of a tight spot in it even though it seems to work 100% despite this. Here's my question, I know there's a potentiometer (the gray plug) for the automatic transmission and the tps for a manual transmission doesn't have this. Seeing as I just swapped to a manual transmission could I use the one without the gray plug? Also with setting this, do I aim for the .5v at idle? Is there a difference in setting the two different sensors? Also does anyone know where I can get the pigtail for the MAF? I've been searching (and probably overlooking it) for most of the day. The rubber boot that covers the back of the terminals has been gone for some time now and the terminals are corroded pretty badly and I've cleaned them as best I could but with me replacing the MAF I'd like a new and totally sealed connection there since it's a pretty critical component.

I recently rebuilt my 87 pathfinder from top to bottom. New everything minus maf and TPS. Now to the problem that's really driving me up the wall.. I really can't express my aggrivation in words on a forum. It starts and runs has even compression across all 6 cylinders has new cap and rotor and 9mm silicon plug wires with new Bosch plugs that are correctly gapped and the proper heat range. I can run it up to temp and the whole time it's running and getting warm it misfires but it's more like it's loading up from fuel. Once it's hotter than I can stand (only able to hold the upper radiator hose for about 2 seconds max and the gauge is right in the middle) will it run better. But it still had a stumble no matter what I do. Here's a weird bit of info, sometimes it will run so rich that even with the pedal to the floor will it barely stay running while blowing thick black smoke out the exhaust. But I can shut it off wait a minute, fire it back up and it'll run fine. It's only done that twice. Another thing is with the airbox off I can put my finger over one of the maf inlets and it will idle down and run better but only slightly. I can unplug the maf completely and it'll run smooth like it's supposed to but it won't idle down either. I can't get the idle under 1k rpm's no matter what I do to this thing. Another thing on this long list of problems is that I can see fuel slightly puddle up on top of the butterfly and in the opening across by the mixture screw thing between the 2 solenoids. It will idle with the idle screw backed out until the screw is no longer touching the throttle cam. So to sum this up: it's been rebuilt, it won't idle down under 1200 to 1000 rpm. It will randomly run rich and runs better without the maf plugged in. If I plug it back in it will start to stumble again. I've tried everything the only noticeable difference I can see is if I take the fuel pressure regulator and hook it's vacuum line to one of the ports that actually has vacuum while it's running. I'm at my wits end and I could really use my help on this.

I swapped to a manual transmission in my 87 v6 pathfinder, and after getting the crossover pipe installed I noticed the rubber clutch hose was pulled up really right against the exhaust. At first I thought it was the slave cylinder being the wrong one (it came off of a 97 ka hardbody) same thing with the hose itself. But looking online they're the same part number for both the v6 and 4 cylinfer. So what's going on? The only thing I can think of is either the mounting tab isn't bent correctly or the crossover pipe is wrong/ different as it was previously a 3 speed pathfinder. So to sum it up the runner flex hose for the clutch is too short and is pulling up against the exhaust. Without the exhaust the hose was still pretty snug but it had some play in it.

I had to go get the inspection plates so in the process I just kept the factory bolts from the donor. I'll measure them and see what the actual difference in length is. I'm hoping to get the auto transmission out today and get everything under cleaned up and ready for the 5 speed to go in

I'm searching for the bolts to hold the flywheel to the crank on my 87 pathfinder. I've got almost everything ready to go except the harness and these 6 bolts... I know they're 8x1.00 thread and if I remember correctly they're 20mm thread length. I'm swapping from an auto to a manual transmission. My big issue is the grade of the bolts. Would stainless steel work? Or would grade 8.8 or 10.9 be better? Also could someone double check the length for me? I only have the old bolts for the flex plate.

I'm hoping that's the case, I'll be trying out my options once I get the engine and transmission in

I've been rebuilding/ restoring an 87 pathfinder and upon inspection when I first got it both the front and rear diff vent tubes were pulled out/ broken off of the differential cases. The front is an easy fix but as for the rear does anyone have any idea on how to remove the old tube that's been broken off in the case? I'm thinking some heat and a spiral bolt extractor to twist it out? I have a parts truck that I could take the vent tube out of, it's a 97 hardbody with I think the r200 rear end? I'm not sure the vent tube is the same size but I suppose I could tap the existing hole and thread in a barbed nipple fitting. I plan on running the vent lines up front to a water separator just for peace of mind and the occasional deeper water excursions.

Seems like they're not on the server anymore.. not really sure what happened but I guess I'll have to re-upload them when I get the chance.

Well I used photo bucket so I'm not sure what's going on I'll check there and if I can't do anything maybe I can get a mod to help me out or something..

A TX10 transfer case is a TX10. I have both from a 4cyl and a 6cyl and they are identical minus the shifter because one is from a hardbody. One of them is an auto and one is from a manual. Before I scrap the auto trans I'm going to bolt the manual tcase to the auto trans and see if it will fit without issue. If it works I'll post about it on the board.

Let me know if all my photos aren't showing up, as of right now they're not showing up for me.. But anyways an update. I'm still searching for parts and I got a few things today.. I was going to get an electric fan from a quest but it was bad and had a tight spot in it. So I grabbed all the mechanical fan parts instead. Also got a power steering pump from a 95' pathy since I dropped my original one and busted the pulley and cracked the housing.. Still searching for a transmission if anyone has one for cheap..

That was one of my ideas, if that doesn't work then I'll just make a big harness to test with and once I figure it out I'll shrink it down to size if swapping the harnesses becomes problematic

Well seeing as I still have probably a few months worth of work to do in total I'll have plenty of time to pull harnesses from a truck that has the switch so I can compare and if need be swap them out. I'd like to have it just so I don't have to get in to start it up if I'm out camping and stuff. Either way I'll post my findings on this when I get to it.. it's on a very long list that keeps getting bigger