RCWD21

Thanks k9! I read your thread a long time ago but never bookmarked it so I couldn't find it again, that's exactly what I was looking for! I'm going to get that set of lift springs I found and also a set or .56 to .60 JGC springs. For $10/15 a piece if I don't like the lift coils I can resell them to a local jeep club or something. Some of the places I go I'm only on 3 wheels due to fire ditches and deep ruts from rain/swamp so having that longer spring would be peace in the back of my mind from fear of it falling out lol Sent from inside my potato

Thanks K9sar, feel free to post pics here too if you'd like Sent from inside my potato

I'm heading to the JY either Thursday or Saturday. Possibly even both days, and I'm going to go spring hunting. There's a 96 grand cherokee there with 5 in h lift coils all the way in the back and right beside it is a fully stock jeep identical in every way minus a crushed in roof. Hopefully the jeeps clustered in that area have the springs I'm looking for. I'm also looking for a higher spring rate since I'll have a custom rear bumper, tire carrier, and also the occasional camping adventure supplies in back. Plus I'll be towing a 14ft boat and a double jetski trailer when the weather is good. I absolutely need 3 inches of lift and a higher spring rate. Ride quality isn't my biggest concern since I daily drive a 98 impreza wagon that's like driving on air Sent from inside my potato

It's a name/ design I've never seen before and it looks like it would be a pretty stout design. They're used and only $66. Anyone ever seen/ dealt with this style? Sorry about the screenshot, it won't let me save the pic directly to my phone. The only issues I see coming up with them are, the bushings and the ball joint replacement. There's only this one pic and from the angle it looks to be for lowered rides but I like that there are zerk fittings and a thick area for the ball joint. Shame I'll never lower a truck more than a few inches [emoji14] Sent from inside my potato

What vehicle do you have? If the cruise actuator is vacuum controlled, check to make sure the vacuum line is good. I've had mine split before where you can't see it on the back side of the actuator and it drove me crazy until I actually inspected the line and found a small split in it from drying out Sent from inside my potato

I've read and re-read the huge coil spring thread on here along with countless others and I get more and more confused each and every time, I'm shooting for 3 inches of lift with a set of springs out of preferably a grand cherokee since there's tons of them in the yards around here. I can get coils for $10/15 a piece but my big thing is I've also read that people have gotten the .60 sized coil springs and achieved no lift, obviously I'd like to avoid that. The main info thread was written way back and I'm sure there's been a ton more info discovered since then but here's what I think is what I need. I need the front springs out of a JGC with a v8 with 9 coil springs with a free length of 17-18 inches with a wire diameter of .56 to .60. I've read that springs with 8 coils are no good and anything smaller than .56 doesn't really give any lift. I need at least 3 inches of lift so I'd really like to only have to pull one set of springs. Also does anyone have any before and after pics that they could post? All the pics in the threads are dead.

You learn something new everyday thanks for clearing that up Pathy, been a long time since I ordered my filter. Sent from inside my potato

Just to mention, the car quest filter is about the same size as the stock filter. It's huge compared to most aftermarket filters. I only use wix filters and supposedly the car quest filters are rebranded wix filters. Sent from inside my potato

I'm stuck between the dakota digital PAC-2750 ($160ish with extra relay..) and the DCC SP2 controller ($~90). The DCC unit is supposed to be perfectly designed for the taurus fan but the weak point in the design that I see is that if a relay or something goes bad, I have to send it in to have it repaired. Where as the PAC-2750 I can just order a replacement 70amp relay and swap them out. I've read great reviews on the dakota digital model and questionable reviews on the DDC model but most of it was fairly old and mostly about the customer service side of it. Dakota digital has an 18 month warranty. DCC has a 90 day warranty. I'm tempted to go the the DCC model but at the same time I like the fact that the dakota digital has a temp reading on the unit itself. Does anyone have any experience with the DC CONTROL (DCC units)? Sent from inside my potato

Look at the bottom of your radiator and you'll see 2 5/8" sized lines running to 2 metal lines that run down the passenger side along your oil pan. Once behind your oil pan they come back over to the drivers side and they'll travel to your transmission. With the heat you're feeling more than likely isn't the boot missing since you're already missing a few gears. It's getting hot because the transmission is trying to stay in a gear but with worn clutch plates it can't hold so the steels and friction discs are slipping and heating up everything. Does your fluid smelt burnt and is it still a nice pinkish red color? And get that Lucas stuff out of there, it does more harm than good. And at this point there's no cure in a bottle. I hate to say this but it could be rebuild or swap time for your transmission. Sent from inside my potato

After going back through my bookmarks on my phone I finally found the one I couldn't remember the model of. It's a Digital Dakota product. It's model PAC-2750 and another member on here used the 2700 model with great success, only downside to his write up is that the pics are down and I could use some help with which wire he branched off of on the back of the cluster for the gauge signal from the sensor. I can't find a schematic for the 87 orange cluster For this controller and an extra 70 amp relay it's around $160 which I'm comfortable with so once I get everything else I need I'll be posting a current write up with the new model with a link to the write up that lead me to the PAC-2750 from Dakota Digital. I would still like to hear from everyone though and see pics of setups. New or old. From the cheap haydens to the crazily expensive ones. Sent from inside my potato

I plan on swapping in a 3.8 taurus fan soon and would like some opinions on what controllers everyone uses. I've looked at ddc, derale, ron francis, hayden, flex-a-lite, just about every single one you can think of. I'm looking for something that's not going to break the bank but is going to work all the time everytime so to speak. I think I need to go with a relay based system since most of the pwm controllers are only 30/40 amps max and the taurus fan pulls atleast 75 during start up. DDC makes one specifically designed to run the taurus fan but it's $180ish and from reading on forums customer service is a bit sketchy. A temp probe that screws in is fine, or even the probe stuck between the upper hose and radiator neck is fine too, I'm just not sure what to get that's going to last for me. I'm not exactly sure what all I need to get in conjunction with the controller besides the fan, relays, and appropriate sized wires and connectors so any input there would be helpful as well. Also any schematics and pics of your installs would be appreciated Sent from inside my potato

Ok well after driving around the block a few times the gauge didn't move any that I could see but I feel like these fans are working as hard as they can to keep the engine cool and if I were to be in the woods or grinding up a hill I'd have issues with the temps getting higher. Next step is a taurus fan I guess, the one I found had a damaged connector and the fan body was very loose on the fan motors shaft. I'm debating buying new but I'd like to have both connections since it's it's a water tight plug. I found a lot of 3.8 taurus's(sp) with the fans out of the 3.0 models so I'd assume that the reason why they're sitting in the junkyard is due to being severely overheated. I'm going to check another yard and see if they have any 3.8 models, if so I'll update with assume by progress I made. As for a controller I'm going to go with the icebox as recommended by Kingman. Sent from inside my potato

Well the fan is a perfect fit for the radiator and with both fans on it keeps the engine at a steady 150ish according to my IR thermometer. And the bottom hose under 100. That's with constant running though so I think I need more air movement so I'm going to be on the hunt for a better condition ford taurus fan. This is where my gauge sits with a 170° thermostat. Sent from inside my potato

Possibly the wrong fan, but today I got a new fan from a 2002 sentra 1.8l. One fan, is a single speed. The other is a dual speed fan. One fan is a 2 wire and the other is a 4 wire. I think it'll work easier than the other fan. I found a taurus fan and a quest fan but don't like how either of them fit against the radiator. I'm going to try this fan out but if it doesn't work I'm probably just going to go back to stock until I can find exactly what I'm looking for. Sent from inside my potato

I'm not sure on numbers but when I get a car quest filter it's huge compared to the stock size, it barely clears the manifold and starter. Although I've never had a problem with the oiling system on a vg engine. Either way be careful with increasing your oil capacity post pump because the more "room" you add the lower the overall pressure will be. How much depends on what you do and the condition of your oil pump. If you're just looking for a bigger filter you'll be fine though. If you were to run an oil cooler with a filter relocation kit and a huge filter then I'd want to run a pressure gauge to make sure it doesn't drop too much. Sent from inside my potato

See here's the thing, I want limited switches. The only switch I'm going to have for these fans is for a shut off incase I need to go through water or something. If I can't find a good fitting fan, or a 2 wire maxima/altima fan then I'm going to try and find some high amperage handling diodes and put them inline so when I turn on the ac it can activate the high speed side of the fan. This is only a last resort seeing as there are tons of fords, and and quests/ villagers in the JY I go to.

I've tried the grounds by themselves and together, one ground both positives, just about every way you can think of and it all comes back to the same result. And I don't have to cut anything off since I have both sides of the factory plugs. I know I could use switches and run the fans that way but I would rather have it hooked to a controller so there's no issues of me having to look at the temp over and over again. Plus I'd have to but a digital gauge. I know this fan would work but I can't find a controller that maintains power to the temp side of its settings while also supplying power to the AC side of its settings. Simultaneous power to both the positive wires is the only way this fan will run on high speed. I believe the ecu sees that the ac is on so it supplies both sides with power to activate the high speed side of the fan. And then when the compressor either kicks off or the AC switch is turned off then it just monitors engine temp and uses the low speed to cool the engine back down. Sent from inside my potato

Here's that schematic for the fans I currently have. Sent from inside my potato

Terranovation, if I crimp together both negative wires and only supply power to one of the positive wires then the fan motor runs at low speed. Once I connect the second positive wire then the high speed comes on. If I supply power to the positive wires one at a time, it doesn't matter which one, the fan only runs on the low speed. I found a schematic for the car this assembly came out of and power supply is controlled by 3 relays. 1 single and 2 double relays. They're in turn controlled by the ecu. In order for me to duplicate that sort of control I think I would need somewhere around 6 or 7 relays total so I could have around true high and low speed setting. That's not taking into account the extra wiring for the fan controller. I'm just going to return this fan Tuesday and hopefully find a better suited fan. I need to keep things as simple as possible incase someone else has to drive or something. Sent from inside my potato

This is the connector for the fan that I have. As you can see in the upper corner for the connector there's 2 positives and 2 negatives. Sent from inside my potato

Sorry about so many posts, I'm just in a hurry with all this because my daily driver is due for some major maintenance, 98 impreza with a bad front pinion shaft bearing and seal causing gear oil to mix with atf. As for your wiring idea, I tried that today (above pic with the crazy wiring lol) and it will only power on the low speed unless both negatives are connected and both positives are connected to 12v at the same time. In order to do that, that's a ton of relays.. I'm going back to the junkyard this Tuesday for an 88 300zx lsd for $20, so I'm going to snag a pathy radiator and see what fan fits the best, I'm between either an older 2 wire maxima fan (this 4 wire setup is a PITA!), a quest/ villager fan, a 3.8l taurus fan, or a dodge grand caravan (only seen this mentioned once on npora in a post). I want things to be as simple as possible so if there's ever a failure it'll be a relatively fast and easy fix. This 4 wire fan is getting on my last nerves lol.. good thing I got the warranty so I can exchange it for a different fan. Sent from inside my potato

Let's say an engine is up to temp and the fans are already on. Now let's say that I decided to run the AC. Would the fan controller ignore the temp prove and default to the AC side of its circuitry? Reason I'm asking is because if I have both of the negative wires hooked together to ground and then one wire to the AC side of the controller and the other wire to the coolant temp side if only one of those wires is powered then that is this fans slow speed setting. If that wire and the 4th wire are BOTH powered at the same time then that is this fans high speed side. I'm getting more and more confused with this and the more I think of it the more I'm debating on taking this fan back and getting the 3.8l taurus fan. I'd really like to stick with this fan though since it's an almost prefect fit and I don't even have to trim the shroud to have it fit. Any input would be greatly appreciated because this is driving me crazier than dealing with the rust issues I have! Sent from inside my potato

This is the diagram I found on infamous that doesn't seem to add up to what I'm working with (wire colors are the exact same as the fan he has). He says that each side has 2 speeds but the way it's wired the high speed setting will never be used. Here's a pic of the diagram Here's a link to it incase the pic doesn't load http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/57ba1b68f1eec/Schematic%20jpeg_zpsibdwmsee.jpg? Sent from inside my potato

I think if I have a diode between the 2 positive wires so that when the ac kicks on it can supply power to both sides and then I'll have a high speed setting and then when I have the ac off it'll work as normal on low speed. I'm sure I'm making this more complicated than what it needs to be but electronics aren't my strongest point even though I love working with them. The fan wires I'm dealing with are Solid black White/ red stripe White/ blue stripe White/ black stripe. The black and the white/ red stripe are negative/ ground. The white/ blue stripe and white/ black stripe are positive. I'm debating on taking this fan back and getting a different one but I'd really like to have dual fans. Would the icebox controller allow me to have a high and a low speed even though the fans require power to both positive and negative wires at the same time to activate the high speed side? I've never dealt with an aftermarket fan controller before so I really have no idea how it's wired internally or anything like that. Right now I'm sitting outside with some 5 pin relays and a bunch of jumper wires with both fans running where if I ground one relay one fan turns off and if it's ungrounded they both run ( found a diagram earlier on Google that I thought was what I was looking for) Sent from inside my potato