RCWD21

Do you plan on fabricating and designing any other products for the wd21 platform? Sent from inside my potato

I got a set of moog compression rod bushings and caliper rebuild kits in today, might be going to pick up a 92 pathfinder for $200 tomorrow if my buddy gets his butt in gear. Sent from inside my potato

The only thing people need to be careful of is making sure that the hose that is in the fresh fluid stays submerged the whole time and that you shut the engine off before you run out of fluid in the bucket that way you don't starve the pump and possibly damage it or let the clutch packs run dry. Other than that it'd be a good idea to keep the bucket of fresh fluid above the level of the transmission since it's only the return line from the pump. Sent from inside my potato

For a starting point have tried switching around coils to different cylinders to see if it follows? Does it do this at all rpms once you come up from idle? When was the last time you changed your spark plugs? It sounds like you're having a misfire under load from either a bad plug or bad coil. It could be an incredibly simple fix that you might not think would be the issue. **If you don't have coil on plug, check your cap, rotor, and wires. And still check your plugs if you haven't changed them recently. Sent from inside my potato

If I ever have to replace a fuel tank I'm having a drain bung added in before installing it just so if I ever get water or crud in my tank I can drain it and flush it out. Sent from inside my potato

Sadly these don't have a drain plug on the torque converter, that's why most people do a flush with cheap fluid and then drain and fill with a high quality fluid after a little while. I've read of someone (I think on here) that drilled and tapped a hole for a set screw so it could be drained but the only way to get to it is to remove the transmission inspection plates which are a PITA since you have to remove the starter, both engine to Trans braces, the front driveshaft and then wait and wait as the fluid drains through a tiny little hole, which as you can see isn't worth the hassle of going through when you can just drive with clean fluid for a little while then drain and fill with high quality fluid. Sent from inside my potato

Well the Infiniti QX4 is just a re-badged and slightly upgraded pathfinder for the luxury side right? I don't see why they'd change wiring and all that just so it was more of a headache to repair when it's mostly just cosmetic changes that are made. Sent from inside my potato

Well now you know, it'll take a little longer but it'll be easier to get the belt on and off Sent from inside my potato

Don't feel bad about it, usually when you're focused on something you skip over small stuff. I do it a lot lol Sent from inside my potato

The manual steering box is loads stronger than any normal idler arm and I dont have to run a brace or worry about bushings wearing out since in the steering box there is 3 needle bearings that have about 10x the load holding capacity. Plus, you never hear of someone bending or breaking a steering box or pitman arm unless it's from landing directly on a rock or something with the full vehicle weight behind it. Also depending on your area going with the manual steering box is cheaper than buying a calmini or other braced setup and it'll never wear out in the time that I'm going to have my pathfinder. Sent from inside my potato

I've read on the thread for the manual box swap that a 720 from 83 to 85 will work and I just need the pitman arm from a pre 92 PS box to have the correct length. It obviously shows a different part number since the arms are different but does anyone have any pics that they could post so I can see the physical difference between the manual box on a 720 and a manual box on a d21 or wd21? Google isn't of much help and neither is rockauto Sent from inside my potato

+1.. The bolt head is either 17mm or 19mm. There's a crush washer on it to seal it to the pan. When you remove it be prepared to have a lot of fluid coming out as the RE4R01A holds a ton of it. I'd recommend at least a 3 gallon oil drain pan if you can get ahold of one. Also when refilling the transmission a transmission funnel makes things SO much easier and much less messy. A Haynes manual or the FSM or even the 1500 page tech book just for this transmission will have the fluid capacity specs for either a total fill or a drain and refill. Make sure you know which amount you're putting in as over filling it isn't fun and could also cause some problmes. Also here's the link to the solenoids incase anyone is interested, this is to the new solenoids, you'll see an option below to a listing for re-manufactured solenoids once you're on the website: http://www.oemsolenoids.com/copy-of-solenoid-set-re4r01a/ Sent from inside my potato

I'm looking at using a manual steering box to replace my idler arm on my pathfinder but around here a manual box is about as sparse as a car driving on water. Would the steering box out of a Datsun 720 or other model also work? There are 2 complete ones in a JY I go to and I can get it for cheap. I've looked at EVERY hardbody I've ever seen and NEVER seen one with a manual steering box installed. Was it mostly a base model thing? Any extra input on what and where to look would be fantastic, I'm tired of bending idler arms after only a few weeks. I need something stronger for when I get my pathfinder on the road.

It sounds plenty strong enough for your future bumper when you get around to the 3 link setup, I plan on adding a horizontal brace between the frame tubes up front for added support and also to anchor underbody plates to. Sent from inside my potato

Here's another I just came across: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?/topic/18860-Winch-bumper-build-up Here's the one with the bumper above: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/41898-sharing-my-winch-mount-tube-bumper-build/ Sent from inside my potato

I can for sure find the one with the bumper on the blanket, but the red one I found on Google and it was a random find. Sent from inside my potato

Does your pulley not have 2 holes in it to get to the head of that bolt? Everyone I've ever seen does, might be worth the time to pull the pump off its mount and clean up the swivel areas and dab on a little antiseize. Sent from inside my potato

The trick to getting the PS belt off is to remove the bolt that holds the metal tube in place for the lower radiator hose. Then when everything is loose you can push the pump towards the block and pop the belt over the edge of the pulley. Sent from inside my potato

I wouldn't worry too much about replacing the filter in the transmission itself, it's about as fine meshed as a screen door. Just do a few fluid changes with a good fluid and you'll be good to go. The only time you should really ever need to replace the filter is if it's physically damaged, and at that point you have bigger problems. Sent from inside my potato

I planned on getting a spare compressor from the JY and a new dryer and O-ring kit when I get get the gauges and vac pump. I know how to service the system, I just don't have a legal way of evacuating the system. The local shop will do it for cheap. Are the compressors the same between the vg30i and the vg30e besides the magnetic clutch? I can't remember.. Sent from inside my potato

Hey Pathrider? Any luck getting it all buttoned back up and running? Sent from inside my potato

Here's a couple pics of the steering column in my dad's D21. I think your steering column is too far forward and it's causing the binding issues between the bottom of the clam shell and the middle dash cover piece. Can you remove the 4 screws and see if it still binds? Sent from inside my potato

Re-read my above post since I edited it after you replied lol. I think you'll most likely find a bad link somewhere when you remove them (make sure the battery is unhooked) and test them with an ohm meter, I usually snag every one I come across when I'm in the junkyard just incase something happens and I need one or someone else I know needs one when we're in the woods. Sent from inside my potato

Well there are a few different fusible links in a few different spots, some are right at the battery terminal and there's another that's down behind the battery close to the fender wall, and then more in a little box on the fender wall that is between the battery and the relay box. Also the only way to test fusible links to to use an ohm meter, a fusible link is actually like a slow burn fuse and it's a type of wire that obviously behaves a certain way under certain voltage and loads. What year is this pathfinder? Sent from inside my potato

It isn't an issue of fuel system treatments that are bad it's just a fuel system needs to be kept taken care of from the start to avoid issues when the fuel system cleaners are used, if the OP bought the vehicle used then there's no telling what the previous owner(s) did or didn't do. And generally as long as a vehicle hasn't sat for long periods of time the fuel filter will catch most of what gets broken free or dissolved in the fuel system, That's why they're there and probably what's causing the OP's problmes. It could also be injectors that are failing electronically and they just so happen to fail when the cleaner was used. Sent from inside my potato