RCWD21

After a while of looking and researching I came across only one thread about the shifter bracket being different. I'm 99% sure I used the wd21 bracket but even with it removed I still have one major concern, going from 2H to 4H is SUPER smooth. Like I can pull back with 2 fingers and it just slips right into 4H. Should it be that easy? I don't want to be traveling down the road and accidentally bump it and have it slam into 4H. The transfer case and lever are from the 87, the transmission is an FS5R30A from a 96 pathfinder. I'm going to pull a bracket this week from the junkyard so I know I have the correct one in there

I just installed the shift boot for the transfer case and gear shifter in my 87 pathfinder, everything shifts fine for the transmission but with the transfer case lever the boot is wanting to pull it back into 4H and back into Neutral from 4L. Almost like the boot is too thick for it. When I go from 4H to 2H the shifter wants to pull the entire boot forward and you can literally just tap the lever and it'll pop into 4H, when I go into 4L the boot gets bunched up and pushes forward on the lever pushing it into neutral, the boot and plates themselves are out of a 4cyl 94 Hardbody. Anyone else have this problem? It's really annoying to get this far and have a problem like this. I can take pics if need be but I'm hoping someone that's done a swap before can help me out here. Could I need to take the linkage off the transfer case and adjust it a few splines one way or another? Sent from inside my potato

Well tomorrow I'm going to the junkyard with a pocket full of money and a really long list! Hopefully there will be a breeze too! Also for anyone interested I'll be posting a link to my photobucket folder with all of the pics of this 87 2 door and most of the work I've done to it, instead of reposting the pics. Sent from inside my potato

I'd go with the advice from Precise1 above. I've seen more of these break when all the local wannabe 's try and follow me. As for you asking for a price. A cheap set is around $100 on ebay. There's multiple sizes and a quick search on there pulled up a bunch of them. Sent from inside my potato

You could always use the stock rails from the 93 and make some custom brackets to weld to the new seats. Anythings possible with a welder and some time. Just pay attention to the size of the seat and check to see if they'll even fit correctly in the 93. Get plenty of measurements and pull a seat and compare things. That's about all I can think of Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Timpaps, it wouldn't work nearly as well since the fill plug is on the side on the transmission. The most common methods for over filling the transmission that I've seen are *fill through gear shift hole *raise side of vehicle safely *park on an incline sideways with the fill hole on the upward slope (not the safest option but in a pinch it could work) , just be careful) You would have to raise the front or the back extremely high to be able to move the level of fluid away from the hole to be able to fit more fluid in. Is it possible? Yes. Reasonable? You'd probably be done already if you used another method mentioned above and have it done far more safely.

The water in the first pic was about 8 inches shy of being to the body line. Oh and yea it was a dying auto with stock suspension and this was when I was trying to turn around in a very tight spot.. those wheels and tires are what are currently on my 87 I wanted to see how they rode, well come to find out no one around here can balance them for some reason they've only got about 2k miles on them but it feels like they have flat spots.

This was about half way through this opening. It was around 100' long and I was about 6 miles back in the woods

From my research it's actually a fairly large tube all the way down. I haven't gotten exact measurements since the distributor won't "unseal" a package to measure for me I've been seeing them more and more on Google pics. I like this design better than the angled hat that I'd certainly lose or worse break off in the woods. I go through a lot of small passages that aren't always trails. I'll post a few pics from when I had my 4 door in the woods last. I even found a high lift jack all twisted and bent up where someone got stuck!

The intake is on the left side of the vehicle and I was planning on using some quality flew tubing to connect the air box to the snorkel. Just need to make sure to waterproof all of it since it's TBI

I'm aware of that I won't be ordering this for a while but when I do I'll post back here with any complications that I run across mounting and connecting it

Any new info on this?

It's been a very long time for this post but i found a manual transmission out of a 96 pathfinder and some other bits and pieces like an xterra rack with both cross bars from a local yard. After a lot of fighting and complaining I finally got everything I needed to get it going under its own power.. It's still not finished but it has passed a 2 mile drive without incident from the shop to home I'm now searching for a few last things for the interior and then it is on to being built up to where I want it I'm excited as ever and thanks to this forum I'll be going alternate routes on some things which have proved to work better than my original idea Future plans include a front and rear winch capable bumper, underbody protection, suspension and body lift, and lighting. It starts up sort of funny and then smooths out right away, probably due to it only have a small battery in it (surprisingly it starts off of a lawn mower battery). Hopefully next weekend I'll be able to get more parts and be putting the dash back in and clearing out some of the clutter inside lol

Nothing some adapters can't fix I don't think I'll need many since I'm going directly to the metal intake tube. I like this design of snorkel better than the others with the sharp bend and the top hat since where I go off roading is sometimes very tight and I'd catch the hat on almost everything I pass under or by. Plus I'm not really a fan of the classic snorkel look, this is a little more sleek and subtle lol

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351668161192 Here's a link to the snorkel in question. After more research I'm 99% confident that this will work. Once I get it, I'll post a write up about the install and then a review after a while of using it since bolt on snorkels aren't really posted about much due to the high price point of the ones from ARB and possibly others I haven't discovered yet.

BigLuke for all the suspension components moog and energy suspension are highly recommended through out the forum. As for lifting it there are several sites for lifts, both body and suspension lifts. You can buy a whole kit or go the way I'm going to and go with shocks, UCA's and JGC FRONT coil springs with the pigtail either cut flush or bent outwards. Go to the search tab in the 90-95 sub forum and type in suspension lift or body lift depending on what you want and that should get you off to a great start. Also if you want to do the 2wd steering mod which seems to help tie rod end angles once lifted just look that up too. Google and this forum will overwhelm you with possibilities so be prepared! Hope this helps, don't forget to post in the new members ride section and fill in your profile if you haven't (I'm on mobile so I can't see that) hope this helps and welcome to the forums!

As we all know there are only a few snorkels made specifically for d21/wd21 applications. I read about a few of the ARB snorkels being made to fit since they're for the Td27 powered vehicles overseas. I would assume that's mainly because of the plumbing side of things right? The snorkel I'm looking at is on ebay for roughly $170 shipped but it is labeled as fitting a d21 Terrano. It follows the body line instead of coming up to a hat so it's less likely you'd catch it on something and with the xterra racks beside it it'll be protected too. I just want to double check before ordering, I've seen a ton of pics of this design on a lot of rigs but nothing up close or under hood or in the process of being mounted which would help me later on

I believe it was, my trip out there may have to wait though seeing as some of the parts I need to get require 2 people and everyone that said they'd go with me are still asleep at 11:30 I wanted to leave at 8:00.. oh well hopefully later today if anything. I'll take pics if it's still there though

Here's a pic from the Web

I think I've seen one in my sort of local yard (about an hours drive) a few months back. Chances are it's still there and I'll hopefully be taking a trip out there tomorrow so if it's indeed a 4 spoke and it's there I'll snag it incase you want it (these yards are super cheap. I can get a tire carrier and roof rack for $20 each)

As long as it's from a z24i pathfinder or harbody it will work just fine. Doesn't matter if it's manual or automatic transmission. Luckily since you have a manual transmission you can pick from either or. If you had an automatic then you'd be strictly limited to automatic vehicles. As a side note, make sure the ecu is from a z24i vehicle. The plugs are the same configuration for the vg30 powered rigs.

We're the plugs black when you changed them? Does it smell like it's running rich or chugging black/ very dark smoke out the tail pipe? If so make sure your coolant temp sensor has a good connection or if it's the original replace it and carefully inspect the connector for it, they can become very brittle due to age and heat. When they go bad they can cause weird issues like this. I had '90 240sx that had one go bad and it initially caused a lean problem and then it went super rich where the car would barely start and I could only drive maybe 15 to 20 mph wide open. To find the sensor I'm talking about follow your upper radiator hose towards the engine, once you reach the metal pipe there are two sensors on the right side of it facing the driver side. One has one spade connector on it. That's for your temp gauge in the cab. The other has, I believe a yellow, 2 wire connector with a metal retainer clip. That is the sensor you're after. They range anywhere from $15 to $25 depending on where you go. If there is a bad connection there your ecu won't be getting a proper signal so it won't know what temp your engine is actually at so it will cause the ecu to either deliver more or less fuel depending on what it sees. Also these rigs aren't too picky about the knock sensors, which are a PITA to replace since they're under the lower intake manifold on the back side of the engine attached to the block. My 90 pathfinder that I used to have had a bad knock sensor and it didn't affect anything that I noticed except for throwing a code for it.

I usually just press them in after removing all the old grease and making sure that there's no grit or grime left until they won't go any further, visually double check that they're in and then pack the area with a liberal amount of grease put the inner bearing in and then a new seal, take it out to the pathy slip it over the spindle shaft, push the outer bearing in as far as I can and then torque them down to spec and recheck after a 100 miles or so. *Note: there will be space between the two races since there is a lip they bottom out on like kingman said. Once they reach that they're all the way in.

Just read a post on infamousnissan about a guy that put a fan from a 93 to 01 altima or maxima in his pathfinder. He also used a really good fan controller from all the reviews I've read about it. Looks like I know what I need to get now so it's off to the junkyards tomorrow.. hopefully

With wheel spacers of any kind you should really replace the lugs with longer ones. Due to the fact that the lug nut is now holding onto the outer end of the lug so even if they are torqued down, you could still slide into something and pop a lug or multiple lugs and at speed that's a very dangerous thing to have happen.