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RCWD21

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Everything posted by RCWD21

  1. Anyone ever come across this? I was horrified when I removed the center differential cover on my Subaru transmission due to seepage at the gasket. A scrub and rinse with diesel took a lot of it out but I still can't believe how nasty it was in there. Here's some before and after pics. The rest of the inside was likely just as nasty but since the flush it's MUCH better and I'm comfortable with letting the gear oil take care of the rest. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  2. The top tank on my radiator and upper hose are around 235°f after the thermostat opens and my lower hose is around 185°-195°f. Low speed on my fan keeps temps down but even when it isn't running temps are very stable. High speed on the fan will pull the temps way down like in the pic after 2 minutes of running. The temp gauge never goes much further than the half way mark. I'm going to order another temp sensor for the controller and hope it fixes my problems but for now is it safe for temps to be that high? There's absolutely no boiling over and the level in the resovoir only rises about 2 inches from the max line. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  3. Welcome back! Lol Also does anyone have a current Rockauto discount code? I've got a big order for my Subaru Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  4. If you do decide to alter the connection right there keep the fusible links as close to stock length as possible. They're a certain length designed to give at a certain load just like a regular fuse would but if they get too short then the regular load pulled by the system will be too much essentially turning it into a smaller amperage fuse. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  5. The BLACK section is just a connection point to the main terminal. The fusible links are the red and green wires AFTER the black box. If you notice, there's a second connection at the other end of said red and green wires. Edit: here's the fusible link from said connection. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  6. Got some more parts for the pathfinder, and found a coolant leak much to my misfortune. It's somewhere around the long metal tube that runs to the back for the heater hoses. It's probably one of the few gaskets I was worried about when initially rebuilding the engine. Time will tell If I have to pull the intake off to replace such a small gasket. Also here's some coastline eastern NC snow pics for you guys. Good thing the ocean was still sorta warm. People around here are idiots when it comes to ice. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  7. I know what you mean, if anything I can just bump the temp down 5° or so. Once it's on the road I'm sure it'll run at a "normal" temp, whatever that might be. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  8. I'm not worried about the thermostat, it's brand new and my frontier has the same thermostat too. What I'm worried about is the upper hose reaching such high temps. Do I need to lower the turn on temp on my controller or do you think it's where it should be. The upper hose when hot feels almost like it's sticky but it's really not. All this was done in my driveway because the pathy isn't street legal and I'm still dealing with my rear brakes, so the only air flow was from the fan. On both high and low settings. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  9. Ok so here's the controller I use to control the beast of a fan that the ford taurus fan is. It's the Dakota digital PAC-2750. 70 amp relay on low and a 150 amp relay on high. My temps are set as follows. Low speed: On- 205° Off-200° High speed: On- 210° Off-203° I'm using a dedicated sensor in an aluminum adapter inline in the upper radiator hose that's grounded to the radiator support bracket. When the temp display on the controller reads right around 200° the upper hose reads around 187ish. The aluminum inline adapter on the other hand reads something more like 215ish. The temp gauge in the cluster is showing maybe an 1/8" past the center line and before I changed the temp settings it would always stay perfectly centered. The top of the radiator reads close to 212° on the end opposite the upper hose and if I remember correctly the lower hose is reading around 170° to 185° maybe 190°. Does that sound about right to any of you? If anything I guess I could ohm the temp gauge sensor and see how it compares to the dedicated sensor for the fan controller and see if they have a similar curve. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  10. Alrighty then I guess I'll bump the temp up to 200° and keep an eye on it for a while. I tell you what though, from a cold start I have good heat in about 2 minutes, I guess it's due to swapping over to the ford Taurus fan. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  11. Sorry it took me so long to reply to this thread. I never got any notifications about it. Here are a couple pics I took when I had it apart. You can see the little L shaped arm below the axle shaft. But thanks to you posting what should cross over now I know what to look for when I go to the pick n pull again. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  12. I have a 180° thermostat in both my pathfinder and 2001 frontier. When I hook the frontier up to a scanner the coolant temp reads around 210° after it's so warmed up and been running a while. The pathfinder has a Dakota digital fan controller in it and I have it set to turn the fan on at 185° and off again at 180°. Seeing as the frontier has a vg33e could I move my max temp setting on the pathfinder upwards of 200°? Just curious before I go and do it. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  13. I feel the same way. When I find an original spare on a JY pathy it makes me laugh because some of them look so small. Good thing I can get a regular size wheel for like $20 around here so a full size spare would be easy to do. I find chrome steelies all the time around here, I have yet to find any Lego wheels except the 4 I already have. But they're now on my dad's d21 Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  14. What I've found is that the spare is the same height but a skinnier width. Not really sure why, my guess is it's "a spare" and at the time they didn't think people would be running around with a 5th matching tire and probably to keep costs down in some way both for the factory and consumer. My 2001 frontier has 16" aluminium wheels with a steel 15" spare, It's the same overall size though. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  15. Decided to redo the inner welds tomorrow because they didn't penetrate as well as I want, but I got the outer welds redone and smoothed out. Here's a pic of it mounted with the fairlead installed for those of you who are curious Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  16. I need to reweld a few seams and it'll be 100% besides the bottom brace tube. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  17. Thanks for the insight, now I know where to put the middle brace. Do you think 1/4" angle iron would suffice instead of tubing? I have 10' long piece that hold the mudflaps on the back of a semi trailer. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  18. Mounted the center section and made the outer templates Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  19. Got my bumper back from the welder today, only $40 weld everything up. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  20. If everything goes right you'll be more tomorrow! Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  21. Got my bumper tacked together and ready to be welded tomorrow, and yes it's heavy lol Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  22. Anyone know where I can possibly find that hardware?
  23. As long as it's an ECU out of a 98 or similar model and an automatic transmission model it should work just fine. If yours is a manual transmission model you should be fine with whatever ECU you get. Keyless entry is handled by a separate unit entirely so no worries there. Once you get a new one I'd still clear it with a scan tool just in case the previous vehicle has stored any codes.
  24. I haven't removed a rack and pinion setup in a long time but one thing that will definitely help you take this on is a good pressure washing session with lots of soap and get at everything you can top, bottom, and sides. It's a royal pain to be working in that tight area with that oil, grease and grime mix getting all over you and your tools. I start off with removing the steering shaft linkage so that's out of the way. Next remove your tie rod ends from the spindles. After that drain as much fluid from the system as you can because once you remove the banjo bolts for the pressure lines it'll drain out all over the place and since you previously drained the system it won't be as bad. *A tip I found to work really well is to zip tie some small bags over the ends of the pressure lines just to keep them clean. After you have all that out of the way check and see which side has more room to pull the assembly out of, it'll probably be the passenger side which means next you'll need to remove that sides wheel and secure the pathfinder so it doesn't move. Finally crawl under it and remove the bolts that hold the clam shell type clamps down on the rubber bushings and wiggle/ pry it free. Then go to the side with the wheel off and snake it through and out into the open. It might seem like a lot but it's really not that bad, all the grease oil and rod grime just make it look way worse than it is.
  25. A quick tip for blocking the exhaust manifold, take a little grease and put it on a couple nickels, and once you cut the egr tube screw the hollow nut down on top of the nickels and it'll seal up the hole just fine. Also I've blocked off a few egr systems and noticed no difference in engine characteristics. Some vg30e's don't even have egr equipment and some do, it just depends on your area if you'll be able to pass an inspection or not. But also take note that once I cleaned out working egr systems that even a few years later there still weren't any deposits built up so a clean working system should stay clean for a very very long time.
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