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RCWD21

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Everything posted by RCWD21

  1. Unfortunately my only option is to piece it all together. I've never seen an LE or even a wd21 with rear discs in my area. I guess I could ship one in but I'd like to find a local one to make sure I get everything I need for it. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  2. That's good to know, I've only seen where people swapped to discs but left out all the important little details
  3. This a copy of a copy of product brought into popularity by a company called phantom grip, it's designed to go in place between the spider and side gears and basically tighten everything up via spring tension and friction by pressing on the side gears. I've read a lot of reviews about them but no one ever comes back to report anything on them after any time of use. Theres several designs out there where some even use extra shim pieces to help with wear and increase friction. They range from $20 to over $300
  4. When I did my rebuild my main bearings and crank bearings had a tiny bit of wear on them but thanks to thin funds at the time I had to check them and reuse them. They spec'd out fine but heres some pics of how it was when I pulled it apart that makes me wonder if there isn't just a weird spot on the driver side head that makes it extra noisy. It was pretty nasty in there Thanks to the rear brake line issue I'm unable to drive it currently but once I do I'll let you know more about how the 5w20 does and if it really makes any difference Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  5. Like the title says does anyone have experience with these? I've read a lot about them but never been able to find anyone with actual hands on or even relevant experience with them. I can see that they might help but at the same time I can see the potential for additional wear and tear on the side gears. I'm still on the hunt for a 300zx lsd for the front end but if these are even practical then I wouldnt mind giving one a try to see how it does. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  6. Well with the 5w20 in there I can tell just how worn my valve guides are, today when I fired it up it smoked longer than the random puff it sometimes does after sitting for a week or so. Given the additional smoke it leads me to believe that my valve guides are worn enough to allow a bit of valve chatter but still not 100% certain. Also in my reading it seems that 5w20 and 5w30 are able to be swapped around a bit given the climate here on the coast of NC. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  7. Would it hurt to leave it in there with the disc brakes or should it be removed? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  8. Are you talking about that spacer piece that sort of floats between the axle ends? If so I made sure that was in there when I did the locker. Is it different with disc brakes? And I'll agree about the t-case. I'm pretty sure it's on par with the weight of an auto tranny lol Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  9. I find that easier as theres more places to grab and secure lol. Now the front diff from a durango can suck it lol those things are awful to remove as it's like everything gets in your way
  10. Technically yesterday but installed my locker finally. Nobody told me how heavy this thing was gonna be [emoji23] In the process though I found that one brake cable is stuck in the backing plate and my driver side hard line twisted off Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  11. My plan was to run the truck like I normally do and when the next oil change interval comes up keep using the 5w20 and see how things are then. If push comes to shove and my boredom grows big enough I'll probably just snag a clean vg33 and swap that long block in with the tbi stuff and then slowly accumulate the stiff for a mpfi swap. Although I do love how easy it is to get to the valve covers with the tbi setup. 20 minutes and both covers are off. Tomorrow is getting my ac working or atleast a vaccum drawn on the system after swapping to 134a components. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  12. I went and swapped the oil out to conventional 5w20 and it drastically improved the noise but there's still some clattering going on somewhere in the engine. It doesnt sound like lifters anymore but more of a solid tapping like when a valve hits its seat really hard. If it is just valve chatter I can live with that but is there any other ways I can check to see if it really is just the valves?
  13. Fired it up this morning and it was as quiet as could be until it got warmed up a little. I'm going to get some thinner oil and try that out so wish me luck! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  14. I'm not sure if itll help but the noise in question is that last pop in the video. It sounds different than the other chatter going on. I've never heard anything like it but I guess I'll be able to tell more when I run it with the cover off. Regarding oil filters all these noises were present even with the old filter which was a purolator brand filter from car quest. As for spark plugs I currently have Bosch bugs in there because at the time everyone was out of NGK plugs, they seem to be running alright though I do plan on changing them out at some point. This thing is making me scratch parts of my brain that havent been used in a long time. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  15. I've run wix filters on all my nissans and even subarus and never had any issue with them being too restrictive or anything and the more I find online of weird wear problems I'm sort of leaning towards a lack of oil to the heads now. It still doesnt explain that random loud pop noise though unless a lifter is just being given hell in there lol Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  16. Well I guess I could pull the plugs and lifters and turn the engine over like that with the pressure gauge installed and see if anything is funky that way. Is it possible to back flush without pulling the pump? It's been a good long while since I've been inside a vg30 but I really dont want to have to drop the pan and remove the pump [emoji28][emoji28] Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  17. I just thought of something! Could the heads be damaged from a broken timing belt and the previous owner turning it over with ALL of the valves bent? I'd image not since that would be a ton of additional clearance. A short list of things done during the rebuild is new oil pump, new valves, new timing belt kit, and a deep cleaning of all oil feeds and passages. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  18. I'm using wix oil filters and on start up I have instant oil pressure according to the gauge I'm using. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  19. My injectors are surprisingly quiet, I'm just tired of having to cut it off to place an order in a drive thru. It echoes like you're in a corridor lol Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  20. Well I'm pretty certain it isn't an oiling issue as you can see the oil flowing from around the tip of the lifter through the oil cap hole. But if I have to I'll get some brake clean and compressed air and blow through everything that I can and see if that changes anything. I'd rather not have to pull the heads but thanks to it being tbi it's pretty simple getting to everything unlike mpfi rigs lol Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  21. You'd think that with an aging engine thicker oil would shut it up lol I'm going to run this oil in it for a few days since it also has a little mmo in it and then try an even thinner oil and cross my fingers. I've spent like $50 on oil in the last 2 days [emoji31][emoji31] Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  22. I had 10w30 in prior to the first pil change and it was still making a racket. Tomorrow I'm going to play around with a feeler gauge and see if maybe the cam lobes are worn down or something. If not I guess I'll be getting a set of heads from a donor vg30 and going that route. I also forgot to add that at idle my oil pressure is 12psi and at 3200rpm its 56psi so oil pressure is spot on thanks to a new oil pump when I did the rebuild years aga. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  23. My 87 pathfinder with 201k on it has a very irritating tapping/ rattling noise going on that I originally thought was sticky lifters. I started with an oil change to 10w40 full synthetic with a wix filter but it actually got worse. Then I decided to just replace the lifters and they pumped up everything went much quieter until the oil got hot and then they too started making the very same noise as before. I pulled the valve covers again and none of them were slack, they were all firm as could be. So in my thinking I went to the u pull it yard near me and got a full unit from the lifter plates to the rocker arms from an 02 xterra. Swapped them in and once again same thing with the noise, so today I switched from the 10w40 synthetic to 15w40 conventional oil and it got marginally better but not enough to say it made a difference. The noise is always there hot or cold but when hot it's much more pronounced and at idle I get a very distinctive pop noise. I have a video of the noise I'll try and post but I'm really at my witts end here. All that's left is to replace the whole head as I cant find any info on where to look or check. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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