RCWD21

If you need any other pics just let me know. It's literally right out the back door here at the shop lol Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I have the 94/95 manual from nico which helps a ton but if I could get a copy for even an 89 model that would help a ton Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Wouldnt a locker beat the hell out of the cv shafts though? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Get you an fsm from nicoclub and you'll have 98% of what you need and know it's right lol I dont even use Haynes or Chilton anymore for that very reason Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

You dont have to remove anything like that to get the upper cover off lol basically pull your plugs, rotate the engine over til you get the number 1 piston to tdc on its compression stroke (a cotton ball is a quick and easy way to determine that) then check to see if the dimples on the cams line up with the marks on the rear upper timing cover. They don't line up perfectly but you'll know if they're way off. There will be 40 teeth between the 2 cam marks if the timing is correct Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Get your cam timing double checked and make sure your distributor is installed correctly lol it sounds like they just slapped it in there to sell it. Mine is just ever so slightly advanced past center and I'm at 15 degrees advance Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Pull your upper timing cover and make sure the timing marks line up, with it backfiring it sounds like either ignition timing or cam timing is off. What you can try and do if the timing belt is good to go is turn the distributor counter clock wise just a bit and see if that helps. Clockwise is advanced timing btw Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Make sure your timing is right. If someone put a belt on wrong itll never run right until thatd taken care of. Also these things run like ass with the air box off so make sure that's on there Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Lol thanks, it's been a journey getting it back right again. Took me 5 years to get it on the road Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I ran my Anti backfire valve straight to the vacuum nipple up front and got rid of all the vacuum lines running over to the air injection smog stuff. The little thermo thing in the air box was removed and deleted as seen in my pic so the only vacuum line coming from that is going to the egr solenoid. The plugged vacuum line can be shortened and left plugged, along with one of the other ones right next to it on that fitting, iirc it goes to that thermo thing in the air box and then the other part of that goes to the hot air warm up flapper thing on the intake tube on the air box. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

All I have for egr is the valve and solenoid lol I dont remember anything like that being there when I thinned everything out. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Use Tapatalk and then the built in camera function. Saves a ton of time and it makes sure your pic shows up lol Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Mind you everything except the evap canister and egr is deleted on mine Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Ok heres some pics! The bare nipple on the egr solenoid goes to the hose seen on the air box in the last pic. The bottom hose on the evap canister goes to the nipple on the front of the throttle body where my finger is pointing under the throttle and cruise control cables. The top hose on the evap canister goes to the nipple next to the one where the egr solenoid. I think that sums up all the weird connections but let me know if you need any other pics Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Also double check your cam timing and distributor timing, if that's off it'll run like absolute crap Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I'll run back up there after dinner and snap some pics of everything for you. I still have EGR hooked up so you can see how it should be in there. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Can you post a pic of what's left on yours? I have an 87 so I can snap some pics for you Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

They really made it difficult for us to put anything besides a solid axle up front thanks to that one little piece [emoji31] Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I knew I read of a difference in the side gears somewhere but couldn't find anything definite so I figured I'd gotten something mixed up. On the lockright locker though the teeth and valleys seem pretty deep to the point where a round tooth side gear would still fully engage without incurring any damage but I cant be for sure without putting said pieces together and checking the fitment out. As for my original post though I've found the conversion blocks all over for as little as $20 but anything pertaining to the r200 diff and the price skyrockets. The main "spring block" I'll call it looks identical between the cheap and expensive versions except for the additional friction disc pieces. I'd imagine the ultra cheap versions of these wouldnt last very long but who knows. I emailed phantom grip about theirs and they can't give me any useable info like what the break away torque is or the life expectancy of the shims. And also hawairish would a helical diff be usable offroad? From what I can tell it doesnt take any special stub shafts or anything like a viscous lsd would amd they're 1/4 the price of a z31 clutch type lsd. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Well since you reuse your side gears it should work just fine. All it does is replace your spider gears. I'm assuming you have a wd22 here though. I found the cheapest price on ebay at around $280 with tax. Just type in 3220-LR and you'll see it lol Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

In my experience a set of standard style rotors are more than adequate with a set of ceramic pads due to them being very low dust makers. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Theres a mud hole behind our shop and just idling through you can tell both wheels are pushing you through instead of one losing traction and spinning freely. Driving on pavement is noticeably different, to me it feels like you're being pushed by both sides of the vehicle instead of the power transferring side to side. I'm not sure if this helps or not but it's a definite improvement over an open diff when it comes to traction Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Got my ac working today and my rear brake line replaced so I'm back on the road [emoji38] Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I just installed a locker in my h233b as well and just moving the rig around you can tell a big difference in the way it pushes in a turn. I just want something up front that bites better than an open diff lol Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Where are you located? I'm located in Eastern NC 28557