180sx

It's like a giant P-Trap in your fender! Looks good. For the fender, I would go get that rubber roof flashing that the pipe slips through and seals by itself. Attach it inside the fender and that will help that part. You could use like window caulk or something to smooth the outside part to keep water from pooling up there. Or you could put the flashing on the outside of the fender. Be a nice rubber square/rectangle on the outside of the fender. That wouldn't look too bad actually. Get some sealant under it and rivet it one (spray the rivets black). I like my second idea better. As for keeping it from flapping, i say make a bracket that attaches to the roof rack. Also, any pics of it attached to the air box at all? Jose

Awesome. More stuff! This is something I never would have thought of. Cool beans! Jose

Haha, I read that and read it as 'maxi-path' haha.

I go here to order all my Nissan parts: http://nissanparts.biz/ They are fairly cheap and have never let me down. I've ordered lights, suspension parts, even a few bumpers. Always within a few days I receive them (coming from Washington state). Rockauto is another place I here about, but never ordered from before. About not worrying about it, that seems like bad advice. What if it does fail completely, fall apart, stuffhits fuel lines,brake lines,diff oilgets on your tires, spin out of control and cause a 50 car pile up? In my opinion, not something to risk. A cheap alternative to help 'extend' the safety period would be to get manual locking hubs so the front diff isn't spinning at least. Mile Markers are like $75 from autozone, and WARN runs about $160 (though I here the difference is more than worth it). My Jose

Learn more about the lift here http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23821 Jose

Tyler oh Tyler, How I long for an update... Jose

Just tighten them tight, Then tighten them some more. When the nut strips, your good! No, I don't know. If you don't get it soon, I'll let you know later when I gots my manual in front of me. Jose

Good Luck! No need bump stops. Over rated! Haha. Well, I don't have any, and I need to replace them. Expensive though. Take pics when done! Jose

looks good!

Yea, I was looking for that guide, because he did it on a D22 Frontier (33 spline), which would work for us. But just like Tyler said, it requires changing the back plate. But that damn e-brake...hmm...wonder if you could just take the cable from a WD21 and use it (probably not long enough...damn) Jose

If you do end up swapping, just make sure you grab everything. I'm pretty sure that even the hood has a different line, but I could be wrong. Just make sure. I too was also thinking about making flared fenders since my 15x10's stick out past my stock flares (and thats only with 31x10.50 tires!). Let us know if you go through with that part, as I'd be extremely interested. Jose

That's true. I stick with Pioneer because of the decks. Always sounded the best. But I've never used component speakers with coaxial speakers before, and wasn't sure if the difference would make any difference. Also, I agree about not using the amp if you have a good deck, but in my experience using an amp for components almost always sounds better. I deal with a lot of infiniti and RF gear that people bring. Always ended up using an amp. Maybe it was just the decks? I don't know, but that many decks couldn't be wrong (most were Kenwood or Sony, but had a couple Eclipse and Alpine decks). Thanks again.

Almost perfect. Great find! Yet another piece to the puzzle solved. Jose

Trying to solve a problem months later are we? Thats kind of old. I can see adding to it if you have a problem, but answering it? Wow. And on talking about this old subject, fisherdude has a Cold air intake on his truck, Right next and exposed to the tire. Wow. Thats can't be good. But from what U see in the pic it looks good at least. Jose

Your rear sagged that much? I though it was higher! Wow...well, good to know.

I think 5" might be too much BS for a 11.5 wide tire. I'm not sure. How much you selling your old gear for?

Thanks for the help guys. All the stuff I'm going with is Pioneer (only brand I use). So I'm going with components front and the 2ways rear. The amp does 60Wx4 continuous, so I'll adjust it accordingly. Thanks again! Jose

Where did you put the leveling kit at? In the rear? Don't yoou have an SFD? Jose

On an R50 you'll have to make some kind of adapter to get the Quest/Villager alternator from a 3.3L to work. Jose

Installing a new Pioneer system in my Mazda Tribute. Stock size is 6x8. I want to install components in the car. I can put 60W nominal (260W max) 2 way 6x8's no problem. But I want components up front. The components are 35W nominal (180W max) and are 5.25" (only non 6x8 that will fit). Does anybody think this will be a problem of matching the two (front/rear). I was thinking about the amp and how it will limit the rear speakers if I can only have 35W continuous. Should I just do 6x8's all around or components all around? I was leaning towards the components all around but wanted some opinions. Thanks! Stock: 6x8 6x8 2 way 60W Continuous (260max) 5.25 component 35W continuous (180max) Jose

What you do is Buy a new radio. Then, buy this Harness and then buy this In Dash Receiver Kit Then you connect that harness to the new radios harness, Install the receiver kit, connect the new harness to the factory wiring, put everything together and wala! Working CD player. NOTE: this is for the non-bose audio, you'll have to change a little for Bose setups*** Jose

You know, they sell magnets made to attatch things to your roof, maybe look into that? Jose

Wow, awesome for sure. Good Luck with all the work. I don't have a WD21 (but if things go right, I might be getting a 91 with minimal rust) but pics are worth a lot. Stick the camera in there and snap away. Even things you don't think matter (like that one little connecter that's just there) really matter. Jose

You can get them from the 90-95 Pathfinder though. Jose

Just cut them all off and be done with it.