180sx

Haynes manual will help. But it's not that hard. I would jack up the truck and put it on jack stands. Then put the axle on jack stands. And do one at a time. You'll probably need new bolts, too. I'm sure there is a write up on here somewhere... Jose

Maybe it's because they never made coils for the front and need to take measurements and stock spring rate for their data. I have an extra set front springs if you want to send those over. I don't know if they asked you for one or two, but I have 2. Jose

Clean money? Like washing it? Well, let's hope you guys can report good things about the V-force thingy migbober finacle object. Jose

Good times for sure...I agree with James above, best way to remove these stock ones for sure. I have personally done the hair dryer trick, and I don't wish that eveil on no one. You will hate life for at least a week if you go that route. Also, rubbing alcohol (isoprene I believe, and it has top be over 90%) helps to remove the adhesive. Not much, but it works a little. Jose

I just re-used the old ones when I replaced my struts. No problem. If you're getting the AC lift, you might need to get the camber bolts, though. Jose

Answer: No. Unless you want to do some work to get it to work, it's not swappable. Sorry. Jose

its so purrty...pics when it's on the truck!!

haha, he's talking about the topic title. Its spelled wrong, unless it was intentional. And Ty, it may not seem worth it now, but later down the line it will probably help a lot. But that's way down the line. I'm just going to wait for their type 4 board to handle OBD-II (they say they need to add more memory to the board and are trying to figure out how for a reasonable price). Jose

rocky-road has the wrong part numbers listed. Their 'HD' is actually medium, and medium is light. So order it through rugged rocks. And Xterra stuff won't swap over. Not even close. You'll have no problem with that combination. Check the other pinned thread for tire/wheel sizes for comparison. Jose

So I got an email back from NIStune. Because our ecu is ODB-II, they said they don't have a board for it. But they are coming out with a new board soon that might work. Damn. But, they also said that if I could re-pin a Z31 ECU to work, that I could go that route. This would mean I would have to switch to a 5 speed for ease of it. Change the MAF to the Z31 unit (might be better, might not), and possibly change the gauge cluster. Then send them my old ecu to get the base map loaded onto the nistune board. Seems like a lot of work to do an ECU tune. But i wanted to do this anyway...If only i could win the lotto... Jose

nice.

Nice. I've seen a couple lifted R51's here. One has the 5" lift with a 2" body lift. Very nice pathy in my opinion. Jose

Sorry, you're still reading it wrong. You should get some sleep.

One system I'm looking into is the nistune ECU upgrade. This allows you to change your settings and all kinds of stuff. It's $420AUD, so not the cheapest, but cool. I've emailed them to see if it would work with our ECU (well, us VG33 guys) and I am waiting to hear back from them. http://www.nistune.com/ Jose

that's what I was going to say. I was confused about all this...Haha. And with a 10" wide wheel, you're going to rub if you don't trim. I'm currently running 15x10 with 3.75" back spacing and I have 31x10.50R15 tires. But to note I have no lift. It rubs at full lock, especially in reverse. Maybe going to a 4" or 4.25" BS will help, maybe not. But one thing is for sure, stuffing the tires is out of the question. Not happening without cutting fenders... Oh, and why are we not searching? These answers are so easy if you just read... Jose

Well, shift220 says he sends 26" lines with his 4" kit. So...26"?

dude, you'll be fine. just get 265/70 size tires and be bad ass! Jose

love the last picture.

Did you get what he was saying? It's like a light bulb (Hubs are the light bulb and your TC case is the switch). Say you have the light bulb in the socket, turn the switch on and the light turns on fine. That's what it's like with your hubs locked. Now loosen the light bulb, turn the switch on, and nothing. Power still goes to the socket, but since the bulb is loose no power goes to it. That's what it is like when the hubs are not locked. Get it now? Jose

Jose

You're good man. No worries. Be happy and have a beer!

Yep. anything that works for the 350Z/G35 and even some parts for the Maxima/Altima will work for the Pathy 3.5. For superchargers and turbos and headers, space and mounting would be the issue. Jose

Remember Alex had sway-a-way shocks mounted instead of sway bars? He said highway driving was pretty scary at speed. Just a thought... Jose

you don't need that much back spacing. 4" will suit you fin3e. even 4.25 is good. anything more than a 10" wide over 32" will need less back spacing then.

Mmm...ITB's. Had a buddy who used Suzuki GSX-R 1300 (Hayabusa anyone?) ITB's on his B18 frankensein engine (used a B16 head) Honda Civic. Couple that with a header and exhaust, port/polished head...talk about one incredible monster motor. And the sound...intoxicating to say the least...Only problem is it had no real power below 4K. Now, A VQ would be awesome to replace my VG. But the Idea of a VG34ET just tickles me the way My old FC RX-7 GTU was converted to dual webber carbs. Just awesomeness in it's purest form... Jose