Cuong Nguyen

I have the 33x10.50 BFG MTs on 15x8 with 3.25" BS. I have a body lift and a slight crank of the torsion bars. I already tore up my fenders and cut up my tires--that's only because of the backspacing. I ran 33x12.50s on 4" bs with very, very little rubbing. They're great, but I might selling these tires or trading them for 33x12.50s or 35s.

I know of a couple folks that had their ground wire for the MAF sensor go bad since I'm one of the guys I had to splice an external ground.

Rust was developing under my roofrack rail and was slowly eating holes in my roof so I had to remove mine. The roof rack is held on by 4 or 5 screws that thread into an expanding rivet type thing. I plan on replacing those inserts with some heavy duty type wall anchor in the future.

yep

So the valves left unscathed after you removed the bolt you dropped in?

crap... it did it again..

well before I headed off to work, I decided out of the blue to unlock the doors with the factory alarm key fob. Got in and she fired right up......man.... I'll have to dig up the diagrams and see maybe if the alarm has some kind of inhibitor switch or something.

also, you might want to support the spindle/hub. you don't want the brake like holding it in one place.

What Simon said ^^^ remove bolts holding in balljoint. Then remove the bolts holding in the UCA spindle. Remove the nuts and washers holding in spindle in the UCAs. Then torch off the rubber bushings to get the spindle out. DO NOT TRY AND BANG OUT THE SPINDLE FROM THE UCA! YOU WILL MUSHROOM THE SPINDLE THREADS AND FOREVER DAMAGE THE SPINDLE!

I drove home from the store, unloaded groceries, got back out to head off to pay a bill and she would not fire up. I have fuel, spark, and air. Is there some kind of relay that could have caused this? I also have the stock alarm so I don't know if it would cause this. I have an automatic as well... I replaced the starter a couple of weeks ago, and replaced my dead red top with a yellow top too. She turns over but just does not fire up. The rotor is still attached as well. edit: I'm trying try and see if I can get all the plug wires to arc...Maybe I'm just getting spark to a couple of cylinders? Only other guess that it could be my FPR...

Have you tried calling around the shops and asking? It's some real tight space to work with trying to get to the nuts and extracting broken studs. Can be very time consuming and troublesome.

can anyone snap some photos of SE seats and of the maximas seats?

doesn't that foam eventually take in water...?

I just hit it with the air rachet and thing breaks loose after a couple of pumps

KYBs.

the original sway-a-ways were white before the switched to red. It also could be that someone sprayed them white.

Are you sure it's unlocked? Sorry, had to ask. Anyhow, it could be that the locking mechanism broke or that the levers broke off of the door release. Only way I can think of is to remove the interior door panel and work your way in the door shell and unlock it from there.

efffin sweet commercial!

all that oil spray does help out with waterproofing the undercarriage..... but very messy to clean up and work with.

quick fix: turn the stereo up louder. quick fix #2: replace studs and install headers quick fix #3: replace studs and resurface manfolds quick fix #4: drive another car

I actually think my Pathfinder has a very tight turning radius. That metal grinding sound you're heading is the steering stops grinding at full steering lock.

winter fuel... perhaps.

Not necessarily typical. Only happens when the threads are boogered.

Why doesn't it list the 3.0 and 3.3 under applications? Just wondering

I drilled a hole through the master cylinder clutch plate and put a grommet to run my postive lead for my amp.