Cuong Nguyen

That photo you posted is old... or perhaps it's another guy. I bought his old ford coils and shocks off before he added the trailmaster lift and ford lift coils.

Bringing it back from the dead. Read the FAQ and was wondering if anybody has ever did an extra layer of weather stripping around the doors?

I've only done it once and Just took my time on it. Wasn't difficult, just time consuming.

it could possibly be that the wiring is grounded causing the blinkers/flasher not to function properly. the flassher/relay is located under the steering column...

Another overlooked thing as to why your cruise control doesn't work is because of the little plastic tab that depresses the relay switch when you left off on the brakes--turning your cruise off. The green light will be on when you turn on the cruise switch, but the cruise set light won't be when you set it. The tab is located next to the brake tab under the dash on your brake pedal assembly. You'll see the two relay switches once you look under there. If you ever wonder why you're brake light is constantly on, it's also probably because the tab broke off and has nothing to depress the brake switch to break the circuit.

It's only 2 pieces. You have 1 piece that runs the length of the window and the rubber one that goes all around. Over time, weathering takes a toll on the seals and so the corders dry up and crack giving you those "L" pieces on the corners. To remove: roll down your window remove door panel remove mirror remove glass remove rubber window seal--runs the whole track of the window and gently pry up the metal seal. This is seal pawled onto the door shell. You'd have to be extra extra careful when removing this if you plan on reusing it since it bends so easily. You'll see what I mean when you get to this step.

My 3.3L crank is at home. I can get measurements when I get home if yall like. Might be a good week or two before I do. There was some talk about using a pulley from the 3.0 long snout on the 3.3L long snout and it working to keep the v belt style... I'm going to see if I can dig it up in one of the forums.. I have yet to research further on it since I already went ahead got got a 3.0 short snout crank.

I just removed the brackets entirely and let box sit on the fender well. But that's a nice fix!

well damn, looks like I'll need a new block... the shop didn't hold up to his words about the rust and pitting in the cylinders..... wasted my time and money...

You can reuse the headbolts as long as they are not stretched. You can tell it when you thread a bolt on it. That's what i've been told by the nissan gurus.

can someone put this in the how-to's? Had to dig this up to clean my stained seats :X

The exhaust port is really difficult to work with compared to the intake ports! I'm planning on picking up some dremel peices to finish the exhausts up.

I just started porting mine. I only did the exhaust ports on one head. the only thing left for me to do is get rid of that ridge on the short side radius. Did you have problems with the SA cross buffs? I tested them out and they seem to be too big for the ports or compressor setting/die grinder is set low.

what year pathfinder do you have? All you have to do is follow the wire up from the plug up to the engine bay. On the 87-95s they're located on the passenger fenderwell towards the firewall on the little christmas tree full of plugs. The plug wires are red white and black if I remember correctly.

They use to be ~$10 when I looked at them a couple of years back but now the cheapest I've found them were ~13 dollars for one. The ones I bought are at AZ made by Melling.

maybe this will help you: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=15422

Spacers are back in stock! http://www.z31parts.com/engineparts.html

There's a place that sells VG plenum spacers but are currently out of stock. They're made out of delrin: http://www.z31parts.com/

Does this look right to yall (those that know about machining/milling/shaving VG heads)? It would seem that the shop took too much off but I don't know how much is too much since I have nothing to use as a reference. Are the combustion chambers suppose to oblong and not symmetrically round? Found some great informative sites as well: http://www.redz31.com/ http://www.z31performance.com/ http://www.vg30et.com/

orange wire is for the illumination/dimmer. Butt it or tape or up to prevent it from grounding.

Any updates? Pointers, tips, how-to's used?

Block and heads are at machine shop. They're going to resurface the heads and blocks. The shop doesn't do any performance work on the heads, so I might just attempt the DIY PnP. I'll know more about the cylinders' condition tomorrow when they start working on it. S1 cams came in last week, BTW...

if cams and crank is set at TDC, then just pull up rotor, and set it to where it points to #1.

yeah you could just do that. Stock Backspacing is roughly 4.25" on the stock chromies and like 4" on the "legos"

I actually didn't have any problems accessing the top tranny bolts. I just used a regular open end wrench and hammer and that's without a body lift. Can't remember if I used extensions for the others but it helps though. As for the crappy exhaust flange bolts, I just soaked them down with PB blaster, used extensions, and a cheater bar.... long pipe and slipped it over the ratchet.