Cuong Nguyen

that is bizarre. hope you have a speeding recovery

Hope you don't mind me adding to your page I was searching around and glow shift sells this for 49 shipped http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/red-digital-transmission-temperature-gauge-1.aspx comes with sender and wiring. I bought this EQUUS water temp gauge at the O'Reilly's auto parts for 16 dollars. Kit does not include wiring and how the wiring is attached is to the sender is via electrical snap and not the ring eye with nut like higher end gauges. It's made for water temp but should work with anything else. I also bought a 1/8-27 NPT tap as well. Just need to get a hold of a drill and 5/16 drill bit to tap the filter adapter. I also think I found a location to mount the oil filters.... Will be planning on utilizing the bolt holes for the idler arm to attach a mounting bracket.

wouldn't the truck run different if you disconnected the O2 sensor granted it was good in the first place to test it?

Check your fusible links and any group of wires near your grounding straps on your passenger fender well. All I can think of.

you got pictures of this?

I have the standard perma-cool relocation kit. I noticed on their deluxe kit that the filter bracket is tapped for a sending unit where as on the standard kit it's plugged off perhaps. I'll undo the filter and see tomorrow maybe. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-5021/?rtype=10 Here's mine until I find a permanent location... other mess I got to attend to:

thanks! I remember seeing it but i was searching for the wrong thing

Hm.. upper and lower balljoints, tie rod ends, idler arm. That's all I know of at the moment that has zerk fittings if they're already installed. Front driveshaft, repacking your wheel bearings, lubing all door hinges. Think that's it.

Anyone here have a remote transmission filter kit? If you do, where do you have yours installed?

or.... reweld your mounts higher/lower....or just save up enough until you can do it right the first time.

Some folks run 35s with a spring under setup and keep their body lift. Positioning the axle, spring hangers and shackles are key if you want to be able to clear 35s with minimal trimming. If you plan on keeping your body lift, I suggest you run a flatter spring if you go spring over. Otherwise you'll be sky high and you will have problem trying to match the height in the rear of the truck. When you go spring over, best thing to do is a cut and rotate your knuckles to maintain caster and pinion angle. Also, you'll need to run a high steer setup. You can get away with just running a high steer arm on the passenger side. No need to go full high steer unless you want the added benefit for clearance of your tie rod. This will minimize the bump steer you will see as the drag link is flatter.

the kit handles fine. no problems. You just have to know how to drive and get use to it. The brake is a tad bit soft but it'll brake. You can upgrade the brake master to a 1 1/16" from a z32 and rebend the brake lines and get a fitting for it to work or run a dodge 1500 ohevy 3/4 ton and get new lines or reflare and make a t for the front brakes.

He is very correct. Remove cluster and drive around and see if the needle spins. What happens to our old pathfinders is over time the plastic pieces become brittle, cracking and braking. The plastic housing that holds the needle cracks so essentially the cable spins but not the needle. You can remove the pieces: plastic needle, plastic housing, and spring. clean the housing for the needle real well and superglue the cracks and let it cure, if it's beyond repairable, you will need to find a replacement cable. Also, be aware that the plastic backing behind the cluster where the needle sits in gets real brittle too and cracks. you can probable glue that together as well. I know I was able to.

There's your hole....

It'll suit you fine.

It all depends on what all you want out of it and what your goal is.

A lot of factors affecting my build. I was in 2 wrecks, so the frame is tweaked as well as the body. No Idea why Calmini wanted to cut a huge ass hole for a small piece of tubing to be inserted for the shackles. Shackles also have to be notched to clear the frame. A lot of the folks running them and myself hit the frame before the tire stuffs. Again, it all goes down to mocking it up first time before you really burn it in. My 33s hit the backside of the fender body before full stuff but that could be due to the accident pushing the body forward...... but anyhow, I'm going 3 link. I have most of the parts already. Just finding time and a place to weld it all together.

I just noticed that this thread is over a year old.. I was going to point out the geometry of the steering links, but I'm sure he's fixed the problem by now or so we hope

I have one of the Calmini drop down bracket laying around... Never got around to using it..yet.

I'm going to cut my Calmini brackets off...I dont like how my build turned out so I'm redoing it. I'm spring under too but running a different leaf pack so ride characteristics are different compared to the Ranchos. going 3 Link.

spend the extra work and go 3 link. works awesome offroad! www.nissannut.com

the power light on the dash flashes on start up.... anyone got any idea why? I think it flashes like 14+ times. 14. maybe 15 or 17? I converted to 4wd using a 4wd transmission and kept the stock 2wd ecu. The only thing I didn't change out was the revolution sensor perhaps. They did have different part numbers. I never had this problem right after the conversion. I have a 93 Pathfinder with the mechanical/cable driven speedometer. It's not longer working---stays at zero. that have any effect? My tachnometer doesn't work either.

use a long flat screwdriver or something similar to scrap around the plug as well. Mines always fully of dirt, mud, and rocks.