Cuong Nguyen

There are 6 bolts that hold the crank pulley onto the harmonic balancer. bolts are aligned in a hexagonal shape. Remove bolts. Rotate crank pulley to correct alignment. install bolts. As far as "knowing" your timing is off, does the engine run better when you adjust distributor timing advancing or retarding? You'll know if your cam timing is off when you "know" the dizzy timing is about correct and your engine is still gutless. Here is a picture when I first did a timing belt on my Pathfinder many moons ago. you can see the holes where the bolts holding the crank pulley on the balancer. I'm sure I can find some photos from when I rebuilt my VG33 motor the same thing but that photo should do you justice.

cheapest is make them yourself out of 2x2 square tubing. premade and welding required: www.trail-gear.com. or 4x4parts.com/shrockworks.com

with lower plate removed and one of the 4 flexplate/tc bolts exposed. Slight difference from what you will see since i'm running a different oil pan and I have a Dana 44 up front.... here's a before picture with the original 4x4 deep sump pan:

What I normally carry around: tool set tow strap mag light spot light lug wrench jumper cables gloves tire plugs electrical tape pocket knife out wheeling and camping: the normal carry (listed above) one man brake bleeding kit with flare wrenches u joints axle shafts ratchet straps hi-lift ATF jug of oil jug of coolant jug of water MREs ready welder and helmet small scrap steel Pillow movies CO2 tank tarp folding chair pancho liner pancho e-tool tent bungee cords twine pliers wire cutters brake fluid BBQ pit propane tanks charcoal eating and cooking utensils saw first aid kit Need to get: fire extinguisher

Yep, you're going to have to remove that plate that Madhatter_xe posted. Only way. I think i used a 3 or 6" extension to get to the bolt and held the crank down with a cheater bar to torque the tc bolts loose. BTW, I just finished replacing the RMS and oil pan.

noas4x4club.com texas nissan trucks is now texas nissan offroad.... tnt4x4club.com

I have a break in my window seals....I didn't realize a small break would cause so much wind noise...

The H233b is a great axle. It has a super beefy 3rd member Nissan skimped out on building axle shafts to match up to the 3rd. As far as axle diameter goes, the h233b shafts are slightly smaller than D44 shafts.

You can find the 4.9s in 2wd Xterras. I've come to find that some Xterras had open diffs with 4.9s.

I guess you've tried looking for hardbodies as well? I'm pretty sure gearing is different and mounting points in the 300z.

agreed. What's your rearend ratio. I know on some manual equipped with the 4.375. You could swap out to the 4.625s from the auto pathy rearends. Easy to find. I think you mean 4.90s hehe. I'm running the 4.9s out of an Xterra with my 33s. helps a bit on highway speeds.

Sounds like a resistor problem in the tach.

Illumination wire for the stereo? Any kind of aftermarket stereo installed? I remember I grounded that wire doing my stereo install and it cut the fuse for the AC brake lights and cluster. Been a while though.

They're more paperish. Definitely not bands or the clutches. I don't have the tranny rebuild kit to know what gaskets it would be but I'm like 95% positive the pieces are from the control valve assembly. I have more pictures on my home computer when I was disassembling my trashed tranny. Bent and broken input shaft royal effed up things as some of you may recall the pictures. I might have to go back home and disassemble the guts and take some more pictures for references. Maybe 88pathoffroad will post pix of the kit?

there were 3 pawls/clips...now there is only one... Here are the pieces of the broken clips: ...and they came from these: In the FSM, it states "DO NOT REMOVE THE TERMINAL CORD ASSEMBLY UNLESS IT IS DAMAGED." Clips breaking is probably why. A new wiring harness will cost you about ~$85 dollars at the dealership. control vavle assembly: You can see the springs in the 4 accumulator assembly. I noticed wear on spring ends from the pistons moving up and down. To remove the pistons, you have to apply compressed air into the air channels to "push" them out. Anyhow, there are 3 small filters inside the transmission not including the big one you see when you pull the pan off. One in the torque converter clutch solenoid valve and in the line pressure solenoid valve. The other filter is pilot filter. To get to it, you have to disassemble the the control valve assembly. No pictures of them since I didn't go that far into the tranny.

cheaper off to get a d44 out of an isuzu rodeo/honda/passport. disk brakes and cheaper to regear, and massive aftermarket support.

It's not the pan gasket for sure. I had to remove the upper valve assembly and it didn't look like any broke off from there. I'm not sure where else in the transmission that has paperish gaskets. Anyhow, those clip retainer thingies on the plugs break super easier. I manage to break all them and I was being very careful not to... The RExxx(4wd) has 2 temperature sensors where as the RLxxx (2wd) has one. I'm not sure of the purpose of having two but using my 2wd harness should be fine since the ECU or whatever it is looking for it. I will be splicing the 2wd harness into the 4wd harness since the junkyard the line when I told them not to. I bought the tranny a while back out of state. There was a lot of metal particles perhaps burned old ATF. I have yet to fabricate a transmission brack to mount the tranny up yet...

I'm thinking they're gasket pieces. since I saw some lettering printed on a piece. But where did it come from? That's the million dollar question.

What are your thoughts inputs comments suggestions when you see this: It would seem to be remnants of a gasket...valve body gaskets? Anybody know? Do you think I can still run the transmission without problems? I was in the process of swapping my wiring from my 2wd tranny to the 4wd tranny....

Expect to rebuild an axle for at least $1k. more if you do upgrades like lockers, chromoly shafts, etc. I'd much prefer to have an ARB or OX locker up front since it's so hard to steer when it's locked. research research research. As with any project, expect to have a lot of down time and lots of money spent. Also suspension setup, leafs, spring under or over, 3 link or 4 link, or extended links (long-arm). driveshafts, driveshaft clearance, exhaust clearance, gas tank clearance....etc etc. Kinda OT but oh well... www.nissannut.com

He did on 4x4parts a looooooong time ago. edit: found the post but he never upped the photos: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/470498/1 http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showfla...p;Number=287369

awesome!

Yes, Shrockworks sells them for our vehicles. Basically the same thing as for the Xterras. If you want to go a cheaper pre-fabbed route: http://trail-gear.com/rocksliders.html Like, Grimgreg said, nothing's cheaper than DIY with square tubing.

Totally sucks mate! Good luck with repairs!

I get a whole lot of rear steer/fishtailing. Definitely the bushings are shot. I'll be replacing mine with Johnny Joints when I start the double triangulated 4 link build. Luis, Nissannut, and I believe Trailchaser have replaced the rear link bushings with the poly ones. http://nissannut.com/projects/Poly_bushings/