Cuong Nguyen

I Just made my own since the lengths in that kit are not specific for any thing so it's like a hit or miss with either a short line or long line than needed.

okay. the plug was tied off to the harness but I pulled the slack out. Color of wires are: orange/black white/black green/black and one of the following.... blue/red? or blue/pink? Green/red? or green/pink?

I'm not interested in these here: But I am wondering about this one:

On my pathfinder, I noticed that there was a blue relay plug attached to the main harness just behind the battery that runs from the firewall alongside the fender well. Anyone know what it's for and shouldn't it be covered up or used to prevent damage?

Thanks! I attached it similar to that pictured. I forgot I had added additional grounding wires so the fender well is a mess! Slowly but surely it will be cleaned up!

I'm just being anal here but does anyone have a picture as to where the negative battery grounding wire attaches to on the fender well? I plan on getting around and replacing my power steering reservoir tomorrow and would like to locate all the wires where they were originally. I never got around to fitting everything up since the accident years back.

Legos are 4.25" backspacing and are 15x7 I believe. I was running 15x8 4" backspacing with body lift and suspension lift with 33x12.50s. tires rub frame at full lock. 31x10.50s were stock tire size on legos.

from a quick glance. they're oversized pistons .75mm over you will need rings that are .75mm over no problem with cast aluminum. most pistons are that. check out napa. rockauto. your local parts store for prices. I spent 355 total for .75mm over pistons and they include the rings and pins at napa. i would check your bearing clearance on your crankshaft to see if they're in spec, otherwise, youll need to get new bearings and machine the crank.

Those "fuses" go bad and you wont visibly see so. fusible links are what tley're called.

If you remove it, pull it out as a whole unit.

The transmission and transfer case are two different housing units. There is a drain plug on the front or back of the front output section for you to use to drain the fluid.

You may if you're lucky find stock manual locking hubs. These are supposively strong and hard to find. I forgot what brand they are. Anyhow, I think Milemarker, Warn, and Superwinch makes manual locking hubs. You can have these ordered at your local parts store or ordered online from various auto sites and ebay.

just buy yourself a generic o2 sensor and splice the wires. No need to spend extra money to pay for a plug end and more wires.

I suggest you punch through the oil filter with a screwdriver and use that is leverage to turn that's after you cover the starter before it gets hosed with oil Remember, the oil filter is not put on snug. I fill my oil filter up slightly to prevent a dry start. For plugs, I recommend good ol NGKs. Don't forget the the cap and rotor. Plug wires, I'd stick with stock or NGKs. Bosch's as junk.

There's a Load sensing doohickey located on the inner middle of the passenger frame. you're suppose to bleed it first and continue on with the rest of the brakes. This thing is suppose of detect a load in the rear and "adjusts" braking when you're towing and it sags the rear. I can't tell the difference though.

so does the pipe go through the inner fender and is capped off inside the air box for water crossing?

those are the specs i got from the FSMs respectively. I'm not sure if the ECU controls the voltage of it.

Majority of the problems that surrounding the VG33 is all the emissions stuff that came with the OBDII setup. I'm not familiar with the stuff and I am assuming that's all ECU controlled and beyond my knowledge. Retrofitting the intake will not fix this problem or any others.

The knock sensor is another annoying thing too. If that goes out, its a pain in the ass to replace. Back on topic: VG30 specs for MAF sensor: Battery supply voltage: 11-14 volts idle: 1.5-2.0 voltage VG33 specs for MAF sensor: idle: 1.0-1.7 V 2500 rpm: 1.7-2.3 V

I'm currently doing the swap. It's a direct bolt in. You'll need to swap over the upper intake assembly and do some small mods to make it work but nothing overly complicated that a typical guy can't handle. There are a few guys who recently completed the swap on this board. Nissannut has some good information as well. www.nissannut.com/maintenance/vg33e_upgrade

Are you sure about the difference in size of the runners between the models? It is my understanding that they are the same in length and size. Please correct me if I am wrong. I am running the VG33 with the VG30 ECU. The only thing VG30 on my VG33 build is the upper intake plenum and crank. Fast says that the lower intake plenum on the VG30 and VG33 are the same. Difference in the upper plenum is due to different emissions junk and size of throttle body port. So in other words, the throttle body on the VG33 will not fit on the VG30 upper intake plenum. I have two VG33 intake upper plenums of from an Xterra. One has the EGR setup while the other doesn't. I should correct the terminology I used for the intake setup. I am only referring to using the intake tube, MAF sensor, and airbox from a VG33 motor and not using the uppper and lowering intake plenums as they're essentially the same.

I have already fitted the intake setup off a first gen Xterra. Parts used: rubber intake tubing air box with attached MAF sensor VG30 wiring to VG33 MAF sensor: White wire : B terminal Black wire : C terminal White/Black: D terminal Reason I am working on this is because I plan on swapping in the VG33E motor that I'm putting together to replaced my tired VG30E. I'm working on it now until my oversized pistons come in from Summit Racing. What are the benefits of using a late model airbox with equipped MAF sensor? well, the MAF sensor body is a whole lot bigger and less restrictive than earlier models and the airbox is slightly bigger with bigger inlet ports. Also the intake tube in fits over the stock VG30 throttle body. The VG33 is slightly bigger but I'm kind of lazy to figure out how to make it work on the VG33. The difference in size is not substantial enough for me to attempt. ISSUES: right now the motor runs rough and it I smell a whole lot of unburned fuel. What makes this setup hard to diagnose is that a long time ago, I was having issues with the motor running rough and it was suggested to me that I splice into the "ground" wire of the MAF sensor harness and hook it up to somewhere on the truck's body and the problem went away. Now, I removed that ground wire fix with this new setup and it runs rough like before I did the ground wire fix on the previous setup. So I hook up the ground wire fix and the engine smooths out but the ecu put it back in fail safe mode and I cannot rev past 2600 rpm. I still need to REALLY DIAGNOSE the problem as to why my wiring crapped out prior to the whole ground wire fix in order to diagnose the new setup if it works. I have a whole bunch of pictures here: http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/cuongnutz/VG33/intake%20upgrade/

gearing, tires, cams

^^ What beast path said. Our intake plenum produces more power than the stock z31 intake.

doesn't look bad at all. securing it might get kind of tricky but what you could do is make some tabs and bolt it up to the factory holes that the cross bars use.