Cuong Nguyen

I cannot recall what exactly I did for the parking brake cables when I converted to disks. I think I might have used the donor parking brakes as I had a hell of a time trying to reattach them to the brakes.

I was talking to Luke of frontier4x4 who builds bumpers off the TG winch plate.He said he was interesting in expanding his market towards nissan later this winter when things slow down. The only issue I saw was how close the winch plate hugs the frame/body which will require some cutting the radiator core support or extending out the frame horns/or winch plate. Those speculations were just from looking at pictures. Lukes bumpers are by far the cheapest: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=795834 85 Toy frame measurements: If you want to go in-depth to compare IFS vs Solid axle frames: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=599542 These are my really rough measurements of the pathfinder:

You can try cheaperthandirt.com for ammo cans and jerry cans. I think they outlawed the steel jerry cans so everything's plastic. not sure on that though. You can look around on craigsist or ebay for some yakima roof racks or similar. as for brush guards, I'm not much of a fan but you can look from time to time at the junkyards for the stock brush guards, on ebay, and craigslist. just hit up some searches on the internet and you'll find tons to choose from.

You can use the cam sprockets from a 94-02 Nissan VG30 or VG33 motor. The crankshaft timing sprocket will need to be off a 94-95 VG30 motor as in 96, the VG33 crank snout diameter is larger.

I'm switching to the round tooth sprockets on my rebuild. What you can do is remove the stock oil pressure sensor (it's above the oil filter) and use an aftermarket one in that place.

swap to 91 300zx MC weld hole in body weld body support on fix/weld holes in top of roof replace windshield lift the rear install tranmission temp gauge fix sway bar

wow. didn't know we had such a thing on our pathfinders.

The rear wheel bearing really shouldn't need replacing unless you have super excessive wear like having the pumpkin super low in gear oil and or it being filled with water. Other way it'll wear is from high mileage say a million or so miles. Even so the wear would probably be negligible. But if you need want to replace the rear wheel bearings. You'll need access to a press and a fabbed tool or the factory made tool to press them bearings off the axle shafts. Basically, disconnect the brake lines, unbolt the backing plate and pull the entire axle shafts out.

judging by the pictures they looked like they snapped inside the threads. I went with longer bolts. +5mm and 10mm just to be on the safe side. I was running stock arms though so you can figure.

Awesome! I too have the blues

Also check to see if those rubber/plastic tabs did not brake under your dash where the brake hits the switches for your brake lights and cruise control cancel.

The truck will run with the timing belt off a tooth but with not as much power.

the pressure switch kicks up the idle so the truck doesn't die and so you still have adequate power to turn the wheels under load.

Are your battery posts and cable ends clean and not crusted over and brittle? How are your fusible links?

No kidding about SW Houston, I got my satellite radio and Zune stolen. Luckily I didn't have my radio deck installed at the time... I'm moving back to my Mom's for a bit next month.. You should try spinning the crank by hand. Maybe you can replicate the reverse rotation. I know the cam assemblies are under some tension when you do timing belt changes. remove all accessory belts?

I'd let you borrow mine but my Pathfinder isn't here in Houston . What were you doing before you noticed something was wrong?

Perhaps a bad starter or some crazy short to cause the starter to not disengage but run backwards? Mister510 is right about the ecu not knowing which way the crank is turning.

95 rear end = 31 spline.

most likely those plastic button/tabs under your brake switch/cruise control switches broke off. you can use a bottle caps zip tied to repair it or coins taped together... or just order yourself some new ones from the dealer.

One of my tubular ones are bent. I never got around to replacing it. I've thought about swapping them out for the old styles.

I used both the gasket and silicone last time I did mine again. No problems. The key is making sure you let the silicone cure. You try tapping it back and forth? Forwards and backwards? I really never had a problem removing mine... I guess I've just been lucky. Why are you wanting to remove it anyways?

i just added more in mine. used a small can with a gauge. stays nice and cold blowing out the vent. no problems. just dont overcharge

Removing the heads is easy. The only problem that gave me a hell of a time were the exhaust studs and manifolds. I also broke off my EGR. Other than that, everything is easy. Just keep track of what bolts go where. You're most likely to have bent valves although everything looks right so far.

Don't know if you know this but, you're suppose to loosen the bleeder screw every time you replace brake pads since the fluid has to go somewhere and preferably out. If you don't you'll cause costly damage to your brake system, ie caliper and brake master cylinder. Brake fluid is a whole lot cheaper to replace. What I do when I replace brake pads is force the piston back in with the bleeder screw loosened by pushing the caliper up against the rotor. Then I grease the slide pins to prevent them sticking and seizing. Install brake pads and bolt everything back up and bleed the brakes if necessary.

Hm.. I'll have to look it up. been looking around on the internet and JC Whitney has something similar for like 100 bucks a roll... http://www.jcwhitney.com/heat/sound-insulation/p2010475.jcwx# I'm going to have to hit up the auto store and see if they carry that stuff you used. Been looking around at Lowes. Saw the peel and seal stuff. Might use this stuff on the floors and doors. Not sure if I would want to use it on the roof due to the heat and not wanting it to fall off. http://www.lowes.com/pd_154017-81326-PS625_0_?productId=1018733&Ntt=peel%20seal&Ntk=i_products&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=peel%20seal$y=0$x=0 Just got to replace the windshield and fix the rust hole to stock the leaking onto the floors...now.