Cuong Nguyen

I know 4WP sells thems. pricey as heck though.

feeling lazy to follow the link but I spliced a wire from the actual turn signal, ground to ground on the marker light. Do not have the ground hooked up on the turn signal light but to the corner light.

You should be fine with a spacer. Do you plan on keeping the stock geometry of the links? Most people have used the lower links as the uppers with no need to lengthen the driveshaft is there is plenty of slip/spline engagement.

$50? WTH! send him down here to Texas!

^^^What Greg did. side note your frame is looking rough!

Old ford coils work. That's what I'm using for my 2.5"-3" lift in the rear. I do a lot of towing so the spring rate is pretty high. They also want to fall out at full droop. Most folks use Jeep XJ v8 springs or jeep ZJ springs.

interesting ^^^^ I too didn't know they existed and I shop at that site!

yeah people have broken the anchor points. I'm sure they're interchangeable. Possibly beefed up versions of the older? Some people have welded theirs back together with no problem afterwards. I'm sure someone with FAST can help you.

I used a similar roofing material at Lowes that has a silverish foil side. Works real well. I used it in my Honda though. You could also use carpet insulation.

remove the electronic speedo gear and put in your mechanical one. It's located on your transfer case. I'M ASSUMING THIS SINCE I HAVE NOT SEEN AN ELECTRONIC VERSION.

there's a possibility that you bent a valve causing it to not seal properly giving you a very low compression reading. Stuck lifter will do the same thing I believe. I've been running on 5 cylinders for the past 3 years now. lots of tapping.

the auto store has all the loaner tools needed to reflare and bend the lines. They should have the stock size fittings in stock. if they don't just order them.

I never knew him personally but he was cool dude and helped me out whenever he could.

Id rather just drill it out. I can just reattach the panhard bar back to the stock location since that's how it's been for the past 8 years.

you're better off getting a stock 4.6 third and swap it in and use 4.56s for the dana 44. I did this route a while back and later swapped to an Xterra 4.9 ring and pinion and used 4.88s for the dana44 so I could run a bigger tire. I cant remember the tolerance for gear difference.

Tis strange. I'm still looking too on my side.

some people have trouble clearing the front diff when removing the engine.

Are you able to use a hi lift jack on the sliders? Looks like they don't stick out far enough but possibly you could angle them out farther

From what you listed, MY cruise control works but I don't have power antenna though nor a manual transmission.

Well that just sucks. BTW, tested out the factory "4 link" suspension. Geometry is wack. Would not recommend anyone driving without the panhard unless at like 10 mph.

Finally got around to attempting to install the bracket. apparently the top holes don't line up as the factory bracket has offset holes due to the welding it together. Is it just mine or does everyone seem to have this problem. the hole is offset so a bolt won't through straight.

The o2 sensor should not have that much of an effect as to the rough running. Either it's bad ignition timing, or crappy plugs and/or wires. I'm still using the stock wires and I have well over 200k miles with no problems. Running Regular NGK plugs.

cool tool! I would have never thought of it! Here's when I did my rear main. I dropped the Transmission as I was putting in another one. You MUST replace the pan gaskets. The rubber gaskets shrink and become brittle with heat and age. If you don't replace the gasket, you'd be hating yourself later on down the road to see it leaking if it hasn't already.

You could cut and raise the body mounts. I know of one person who did it on his xterra. When doing the body lift, the rear two bolts are a pain to line up.

What air filter are you running? It's possibly that your mass air flow sensor could be dirty. Check to see if the connections are clean and not corroded.