Cuong Nguyen

You could. Just tap into the the dimmer wiring so they don't distract you. I may end up using some pillar pods and fitting to fit.

Well finally finished my temp sender unit install: Didn't have my tap handle with me so I use brute force and pliers. What sucked more was my hole wasn't straight down so it was a PITA to tap but it's all said and done now. Again I am a electrical water temp gauge as a tranny oil temp gauge.

I guess the design change was to decrease the likelihood of sucking up air or no oil from sloshing around.

I cut the stock brackets and raised the front piece up and welded it together. Better than the plates in the body lift.

It should spin freely and be free of noise.

Was it an OE or aftermarket? I imagine if there was a service file if if was factory. I know in the case with the z31 oil pickup tube the discontinued the old style and started l producing new replacements that utilize the flat gasket instead of the faulty o ring design. Only issue is that I don't know when I'll ever get my replacement tube since it's on back order.. I wonder what the new style looks like. I wonder how the square style can cause problems. I can only think the screen is so fine and can clog easily. But you would have to low on oil to be spitting clutch disks.

Maybe you should get a long screwdriver and see if you can pinpoint the noise. It sounds something like bad bearings lacking lube.

I would help you out but the trans is not here with me

I would help you out but the trans is not here with me

I am using a headlight wiring kit similar to what you linked. It uses your your factory headlight plug to trigger they relays on the harness to turn on your low and high beams.

Ah. Forgot about that front diff.

Is oil starvation present during long descents? All truck models (2wd trucks being and exception) use a low hanging sump as compared to it's 2wd car models. What's the reasoning behind this as opposed to using the 2wd oil pan?

Yes,fluid is sucked up by the filter through that circle hole on the bottom left to the TC which eventually spits everything onto the clutches/gears and all is drained down the bottom through all the orifices most mostly through that big hole you speak of in the bottom center. So at what temperature does the sensor trigger the dummy light?

Are you positive that that the timing belt is on properly and the distributor is put in correct and wired up in the correct firing order? I don't know about your TC problem. If the flex plate was bent, you would visually notice it right away when you installed it. Plus, the TC bolts up to it.

Looks like I need to take apart my driver side window motor as it has stopped working. I hear it clicking but won't roll down (window is all the way up).

Master cylinder is leaking. There are rebuild kits you can get for the mc

Maybe you can have this guy make yall VQ folks a spacer... http://extremetruckperformance.com/?page_id=6 anyhow, someone with an S12 (VG30) installed plenum spacer kit and saw a big change in temps--150/160* to 100* with the lower intake being at roughly 200* F.

Bring this back out of the grave. A new guy has started making these spacers as Z31parts has been busy. http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=24002 www.allthingsz.com

I remember being told a long time ago that some Pathfinders were equipped with a simple transmission temperature dummy light. When I did my 4x4 conversion, I mildy tore apart the donor automatic transmission to do some rewiring. I found an extra wire that my 2wd transmission did not have. The wire lead up to what looked like a temperature probe. I'm assuming this probe is just a one way deal to signal the dummy light that your tranny is overheating. I'm wishfully thinking I could use the probe and wire it to a temperature gauge. The wire is orange and you can see the probe in the other picture.

the plug atop the oil filter location is the oil pressure switch for the low oil pressure light. I know the FSM says replace the head bolts but I plan on reusing them... as for the lifters, I find that soaking them in oil doesn't really do much. Maybe if you heat up the oil so maybe it'll soak into the lifters easier.... There's a how-to here by kingman or precise1 on how to take apart a lifter and inspect them.

Who here has one installed and where and how about did you do it?

I too and in the hunt for answers. Perhaps find out a way to test the fuel pressure and see if it drops after you prime the fuel pump. Pull the injector rail out and set a piece a wood under it and see if the injectors leak after you prime the fuel pump. I don't think I've heard of the o rings shrinking or going bad but I may have that issue seeing that I have like over 210k miles on my motor.

Pulled the right side valve cover and #1 valves are not stuck. The rockers never leave the valves. #3 exhaust lifter end looks like it got shattered.

Maybe over two years. The motor did not start running on four cylinders until like two months ago.

I got a ride home to my mom's so I can see what's wrong with my truck and fix it to make the long haul back to Houston. Last night j was able to pull the plugs and do a compression check. I have reason to believe that I do have some worn rings and and possiblysome stuck valves. Worn rings would explain the low oil. Number one and six cylinders have no compression and the plugs were damaged. Going to throw in some new plugs and change the oil.