Cuong Nguyen

Tried to install my motor into the pathfinder and could not get it to line up right. I really need my load leveler. At least the engine is out of the apartment and sitting inside the truck.

Hunting for an upper timing belt cover from a z31. I can reuse the old pathfinder one but the rear is exposed to stuff falling in and damaging the timing belt.

I ended up cutting my lines and using vice grips to remove them because they ended up rounding up with the wrench. Make sure you clean up the brake fluid spill because it will eat up paint and oxidize anything metal.

You could put some antisieze on the nuts and bolts to prevent them from rusting shut. From experience when I repaired my front end, I ordered cheap replacement parts body parts which came from China. They do look like the OE but are nowhere near the strength of OEM because the aftermarket parts use a thinner gauge steel. I was better off grafting used parts from a donor vehicle from the get go to save on costs. the only thing I managed to salvage from the wreck was the center bracket pictured in the middle of the radiator support. It really beefed up the radiator support from buckling down.

Actually, all my harnesses are all still attached in the engine bay. I never thought about disconnecting them and hooking them up to the motor. How did you go about bypassing those hoses? I was just thinking about extending the lines.

I've never dealt with cancer on a unibody but my guess would be remove all the rusted parts and weld up the new replacement parts and paint the parts to prevent rusting.

Well I was going to have everything installed but then I realized that I will have a hard time trying to hook up the knock sensor wire. I'm also replacing the OEM style hose clamps with regular hose clamps that you screw to tighten so that removal/install of the bypass hose to the thermostat is easier.

The VG30 block was used in different vehicles with different style flanges so that's why there are different locations for exhaust studs. I would think if you had an exhaust leak you would see black soot where it was leaking. Perhaps the flange surface is not square and not sealing properly with the exhaust gasket? You could remove the EGR tube, clean up the threads on both tube and header, apply anti-seize compound on it and reattach it back and see if that helps out.

I installed the fuel injectors back into the fuel rail. Hopefully I didn't damage the o-rings in the process so it doesn't leak.

Is the throttle/cruise control cable tensioned properly? Check the ignition timing?

Trying to figure out how to make my engine install faster. Old engine is out, and new engine is ready to put in. Should I leave the headers on or off? What about the upper/lower intake assembly? Engine mounts attached to the motor or to the frame?

Lots of hot water and towels. I soak the towel in hot water, damp the seats, and it lifts off many years of dirt caked into the fabric. Rinse and repeat until the towel doesn't pick up anymore. Armor All the dash. The exterior is a lost cause for me but I use to wash and wax her religiously. With 3M and Meguiars cleaning products and cheat tire shine with UV protectant.

Did the mechanic put in the right fluid that's made for a LSD? Can you pinpoint where the howling/whining is coming from? left side, right side middle rear? My guess it's a wheel bearing. If the diff was low in fluid oil won't make it to the wheel bearings to keep them lubed. If the shavings are big enough, it could damage the wheel bearings and score the race.

Trying to make it work. My '93 just seems to be full of surprises Still not sure how I did this:

Is the ECU throwing any codes? possible things to check as well: EGR functioning? PCV valve good? brake booster check valve good? Good contacts and ground on MAF sensor? Power steering pressure sensor connected and not damaged? O2 sensor functioning and wires not melted on exhaust pipe?

Are your motor mounts not busted or secure? Ignition timing slightly off?

People have used the old toy front axles and flip it so the diff is on the driver side. you'll also need to get wheel spacers as the old toy axles are narrow as compared to the h233rd in the rear. Gator actually is competing in petersons ultimate adventure. He had a radius arm setup but switched to a 3 link front, IIRC.

I brought 3 more injectors to the shop to get cleaned. One of them was leaking but was fixed after it was cleaned. They are now good as new! It's hard to tell if your injectors are working properly without removing them from the engine and testing them. Getting them cleaned will save you a lot of money down the road and bring back performance of the motor. Worth every penny considering the power output of our motor.

I have those and haven't had any problems with them. I think I swapped the OE brackets onto the replacements as the replacements are very flimsy. A lot better output than my old stockers.

I got your diagrams. I was hoping to see what exactly in the engine bay the fuel line screws into. But anyhow, I found a barbed fitting that fits the hose to hook up to the stock fuel line to use.

LOok up oldslowreliable and grimgreg. They have built relatively simple bumpers that look good. Their a few more but I don't know off the top of my head. Search bumpers.

I'd pull the codes like suggested. It'll tell you alot. Also, check your tranny fluid. Hard driving and inadequate cooling will kill your transmission. Fusible links can go bad without it looking so. Make sure the connections are tight and not loose. Also make sure the contacts are clean and not corroded.

I think there was a guy on here from some country up north, Canada, Iceland, Greenland, or Russia who did a HID retrofit into the stock headlight housing. Looked kind of funny but puts out awesome light without scatter. Do a search on the board.

Contact Warn for a free replacement. They are pretty good with that.

Any aftermarket radiator at the auto store will be more than sufficient for your needs. Plastic caps and aluminum core. All the stock replacements have the transmission coolers built. To bypass it, just don't use it and leave the caps on the fitting.