Cuong Nguyen

I am seeing a lot of cheap prices and parts on Ebay and it is so tempting to buy them. I was considering getting the timing belt kit on ebay which is half the price sold in stores and same goes for the water pump. Does anybody have any experience with Ebay auto parts?

Would like to keep the VG30 running as long as it can until I'm doing with the VG33 motor.

I've been using castrol gtx 10w30 for a bit. I was using Penzoil back in 2001 and switched shortly after. Just go by the SAE API rating on the back, if they're the same they then they're good. Just keep up with oil change interval and use a good oil filter.

I think I'm losing a lot of my memory at a fast rate but it looks like #1 cylinder is not burning fuel to cause that build up of carbon otherwise it would be like the others. I'm guessing leaky injector, no spark, little to no compression (bad rings)....

What could cause the motor to die(shut off) when coming to a stop? Also it has been getting really crappier gas mileage. There also isn't any power and it takes some effort to get up to speed. If, say the o2 sensor wires were damaged (pinched/cut/melted) I could possibly see the gas mileage going bad but would that cause the truck to die too? I don't think the timing belt jumped a tooth. Pretty sure the ignition timing is good unless somehow* the bolts loosened up and timing moved. How often should you replace the fuel filter? Kind of just ranting but frustrated since I don't have the truck here with me.

Update: I found nick on my number #6 rod journal which gouged my new rod bearings I installed. This totally blows donkey XXXX. I have not checked the rest of the bearings but I will be ordering a new set of rod bearings for sure. I am going to attempt to sand down the nick and smooth out the journal with some sand paper or file. That's after I call my machine shop for their recommendation. It's been well over a year. Anyhow, here are the links to my VG33 engine build pictures: http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/cuongnutz/VG33/. I also have a build thread over Z31performance since I really don't feel like double posting: http://www.z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=21229

cool that you figured it out.

Looks good. Do you have a picture of the bumper mocked at bumper level from the side? I'm curious to know what's the approach angle with the bumper on. Do you plan on raising the bumper up to sit flush with the body because it looks like the stinger support would really block your headlights if you did.

If you hang it, just make sure the shaft doesn't slip out and get dragged.

it's definitely not for the headlights or factory fogs lights as the plugs are different. Maybe it's for the factory adjustable shocks. I never had them so I don't know how they look.

you can hit up any mom and pop exhaust shop and replace the cat with a highflow cat, 2.25-2.5 tubing and a nice flowing exhaust--dynomax or flowmasters autozone duralast pn: SU401 for coolant temp sensor rock auto BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1580134 for coolant temp sensor

How is the seal? I wouldn't trust it laying down on its side. I can't really see how much space it would save you either way.

http://nissannut.com/projects/motor_mount_mod/ maybe that will help?

What issues are you having? Each door has a pressure switch on the door jambs and the rear hatch's switch is built into the latch on the tailgate.

Nice teaser pictures! You can check out how Barry incorporated his factory mounts into his bumper design if you need more ideas on how to mount it up. Can't wait to see better pictures so I can figure out how to mount mine in the future! Thanks for taking the dive first! Going to try and adapt this to work:

Get a new headunit. Most likely you grounded out the illumination wire or totally wired it up wrong. Remove the unit and wiring and see if that does anything. if not, check your underhood fuses and fusible links.

I average 12-15. with a dead cylinder, 33x10.50 MTs, 4.88/4.9, and lockright. No armor.

There are CVs there. They have custom built extended CVs.

Gave Trail Gear a call and they said the mounting length (horizontal wise base) and it was 26.75 and the height of the tab being 2.25 if I remember. That was all teh info they could provide at the time.

Hopefully within the week or so.

The cam gear pulleys/sprockets interchange but you'll have to order the round tooth crank sprocket from the dealership for a 94/95 pathfinder because of the change in crankshaft diameter between the two engines.

that'd so rock.

These guys are apparently alive and kicking hard. I shot him an email to see if he still has any pictures of their subframe drop for the R50s in the archive since they've discontinued it. Brief Background: Mud Jayson is a company in Japan who are most known for their high use of 4-6" use of body lifts and subframe drops. Anyone need an ergonomically friendly soccer mom vehicle?

It's either custom or modify one for a different truck (Toyota or Jeep). If you don't care much for looks, you can hit up Harbor Freight or your local Tractor and Supply and buy a universal which plate, some 2x2 or 2x4, some plate, and get some of your welding buddies to put you one together for cheap. Majority of the after market bumpers tie into your factor tow hook holes and sometimes factor bumper brackets.

I'd suggest hitting up the local pick and pull junkyard or like said ^^^^. Not sure if hose and clamps will hold under pressure.