Cuong Nguyen

Can anyone get some pictures Of what the fuel lines attach to? What does the fitting screw on to? This is from an Xterra but I figure it's the same part for the R50

The transmission has it's own computer--- TCU. It's located in the rear right quarter panel in cargo area just above the wheel hump. It does the shifting I think. I converted my 2 wheel drive to 4 wheel drive and I'm still using the 2wd ecu with no problem. I cannot comment on it affecting shift points though.

The rear hatch strike adjustment usually fixes it. The rear hatch usually gives people this problem more often than the door switches. I'm going to put a small bead of weld on the hatch strike so it can push the switch in the latch. The washer fix stopped working for me after tweaking the door and body from abuse or just remove the panel on re rear hatch and disconnect the darn thing and be done with it.

I think I have a video of mine doing the same thing on YouTube. Your tach is going out. I had to replace mine to fix the problem. I still got the old one but doubt I'll ever get around to diagnosing the root of the problem. What you are experiencing is pretty common.

Seals went and rusted away.

Man I wish I had a local pick a part. Things here in Houston aren't so local. My front pump finally gave up on me after I fixed it.

Attached the motor mount brackets, AC bracket, and power steering bracket onto the motor. Ruined one brand new cam seal and bought another. so now I have a Fel Pro cam seal and a Moog cam seal. I'm thinking the Moog is going to outlast the Fel-Pro. Compared the thermostat housing and they are different slightly in design, angle, height although mounting points are the same. I need to source some lower z31 timing cover bolts. I'll probably do a write-up on a VG33 swap someday when I actually finish this build/install.

Glad to see you got them

I'm pretty sure it's only the california model that's fuel injected. I'm not really familiar with the 4 bangers. Z and K series.

Well got an email back from a few mainstream injector cleaning services and both have said that the VG30 and VG33 flow the same and have the same resistance. Very interesting. Well that settles everything! The JS40-1 are the D21 4 banger injectors.

I asked the guys at the shop and they think the VG33 injectors are larger to compensate for the larger displacement. The idea of the two injectors being the same as flow rating goes has been floating around the internet for some time but there hasn't been any evidence being so. I don't really feel like dropping $120 just to test the VG33 injectors and have to find out first hand like that.

Caca. Looks like my new shocks aren't going to work.

Are the rear shock bolts/mounts sleeved? reason I asked was when I removed my old Rancho shocks, it seems the sleeves (if there were any) are siezed up to the shock studs/bolts. I haven't messed with them in years so I forgot if they did or didn't have sleeves to begin with.

Well pulled the motor out this morning. I had to do it quick before apartment management found out. Pulled it out and got it loaded onto the truck. Then the manager came out and spoke with me about how I can't work on vehicles in the parking lot. I guess maintenance told her. I guess it's time for me to get onto people about not cleaning up after their dogs.

These guys are located here in Houston, TX. Turnaround time is about 1-2 days. Just check out their website. www.injectorrx.com The VG30 injectors is sufficient if you keep the upper intake assembly as the throttle body and MAF of the VG30 will restrict air intake. If you retain the VG33 intake assembly then you'll need to keep the VG33 injectors. I have not found the actual flow rate of the VG33 injectors yet.

I have been forever been working on my VG33 replacement motor and finally was able to tear down the needed parts off the old VG30. Being that I having well over 200+K miles, and various running issues with it, I decided it was worth my while to have my fuel injectors cleaned and tested. I located a two places that did injector cleaning locally and went with injectorrx.com. They charge $18 per injector and you get them cleaned and flow tested. I also learned a lot about the injectors from the owner as well. I found out that these injectors are notorious for corroding and not work properly. That was the case with my #1 injector. It did not work at all. Here are my injectors before cleaning: After: Printout of the testing:

I don't think the hitch can support that much weight but can try. Only one side of the sway bar is disconnected. I'll have to undo the other one. I probably won't be able to work on it until Sunday afternoon. I did have jack stands at some point but I don't remember if I brought them home to my mother's place or they got lifted from me...

I am trying to avoid taking it to a shop if I can do it myself. Only thing is is that I have no jack stands nor a floor jack. What I do have is a 48" Hi Lift, the factory bottle jack, and can use the bottle jack from my Toyota Tundra. My old Ford F100 coils are about 16.25" long and my new coils are about 21.25" long. I was able to crank up the rear of the frame and remove one of the coils but couldn't put the new one in because I didn't have enough space. the Hi Lift was almost maxed out and I had to disconnect the rear diff breather hose. Do you think if I were to remove the tire, I would be able to get them in? Even if I do get it in, would it be more difficult to do the other side because of the difference in height? Rancho 9116 shock, Fox 2.0 11" shocks, BGY 3.5" Super Flex coils

Holy crap that's horrible! I get that much and I am running on 5 cylinders!

http://nissannut.com/projects/D22_winch_bumper/ It's not a Cherokee bumper but it's a Jeep.

Drop off my injectors to get serviced. Towed her to the carwash to clean off all the mud and oil from my last outing which was back in January. Found out that purple power degreaser is very corrosive and eats paint and drys the crap out of your skin. Does an awesome job degreasing though. With majority of the junk in the engine bay removed it is more apparent that my passenger frame is bent. So I need to find a cheap and decent body shop to realign it or else I'll be tearing up motor mounts if it's that bad. The frame seem to have buckled inwards causing the front passenger frame to be pushed back causing my suspension to be off. Engine is ready to be removed from the truck. I just hate where the starter is located! Also found out that my oil pressure sensor is cracked and leaking oil. Just waiting on upgrades motor mounts to come in....... HURRY UP STEEEVO!!! also my new to me Fox Shocks came in today. Can't wait to lift the rear.

tommynguyen02 search

Looks like yours is seized together. I too had to remove the steering shaft and beat it to get it to budge as previously mentioned ^^^^.

I mangled a fuel injector trying to pull it out and bent my fuel rail in the process. What a day....