Cuong Nguyen

The issues I had with removing the center console was that the screws were caked in crud from all the drinks that spilled onto it. They're smaller size screws not like the outside ones with the big head. I think I ended up just ripping it out.

Glad I could be of help. Just make sure your terminals are clean of corrosion and you have good tight contact with the terminals. Loose connections will have symptoms of a dead battery. Once you get it started. Run down to the auto store and have them check your charging system. free.

what I normally do is cook it in the oven to where it heats up the glue and pull apart.. you can try polishing the backside (inside) if any luck. If moisture got in, it'll eat up the chromy-ness.

I know the issue when I did my 4x4 conversion, was that the plugs that go to the shifter were disconnected... are you automatic? THe plugs are located towards the bottom left corner of the shifter under the carpet.

What's common with our older models is that over time the "needle" for the speedo cable cracks. so when you put it in the cable in just spins inside the needle. The needle I'm referring to is the white piece on the end of the speedo cable that goes into the speedo cluster. You can pull it out and see the spring behind it. You can try super gluing it (I did and it's been holding up for 3 years now) and that should fix your problem.

I still have less than half a deployment to go and contemplating on moving when I get back to the states...sooo yeah it'll be a while hahaha

I forgot what numbers I had it at... but I'm going to rethink the design over. but if yours comes out before mines, i'll just go with yours. hehe

Looks good steevo! I plan on doing something similar whenever i come home from deployment AND HAVE TIME. I have all the parts. Just need time! see pixs: http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/cuongnutz/SAC/?start=80

SAS - solid axle swap. 3 link, 4 link, and leaf springs are type of suspension systems used for solid axle equipped vehicles.

you're off to a good start Shouldn't be long before you get the front and rear situated!

I'm like 90% the innards are all the same. I cant remember what exactly AC/4x4parts did with the 5.13 ring gear to make it work with ALL h233bs. I recall seeing a post about Phil or Lee using the 9 bolt in lieu of the 10 bolt h223b. and had no problem..

Thank for the offer Ghostpath but I just needed a bumper to passed inspection. I just used the bottom holes and bolted up the bumper.

I found out today that the pre 93 bumper brackets don't work for post 92 models. The top bolt hole does not line up with the hole on the frame mount.

i was wondering if I could fit the old square-ish looking front bumper off a hardbody or pathfinder on my 93 Pathfinder. I need a front bumper to pass inspections....hardmounted turn signals and license plate.

good luck trying to remove the wires. those plastic connectors and plugs become so brittle over time that they will break off. You'll also be having a hard time trying to remove those broken pieces when they fall deep into the transmission. I gave up and spliced and soldered the wires together.

post jack... my number 5 has been dead for the past 2-3 years now... just yesterday, i started to get this load and nasty ticking/tapping that kind of went of away as I continued driving....

I found out through various installs of the cable driven clusters that the plastic housing that holds the stick/plug/springy thing doohicky that plugs into the back of the spedometer cluster cracks I just shoved the thing in further and line it up with the back of the cluster and it worked. 87-93 models are cable driven where as 94+ are electronical. As for your cluster being way off, I have no clue as to what would be causing it. I do know that spedometer gearing (the one that plugs in the back of the tail housing on the transfer case) is different than that on 2wd.

check to see if the wiring for that front bulb isn't shorted/grounded out somewhere. Just follow the wiring back. It could be also the plug/connect wiring for the bulb is bad. Give it a wiggle while you have your turn signal one and see if there is a change. I have that problem.

Nah, it was still straight after I flopped it. I'm thinking it probably happened when I was wheeling out in Barnwell.

Not sure how I did, but it happened. Only side that was damaged. More reason for me to hurry up and 4 link the rear.

What limit's the rear's articulation is the upper links being how short they are so people make the links longer as said previously. Will also require that you drop down the frame panhard mount to recenter the axle after the lift.

Q45 PISTONS clearanced for vg33 valves. 3.0 water pump. I think they used the VG33 heads as well.

maybe you are wearing your brake pads insanely fast... could be leaking into your brake booster..

And if you did, you could always just drain it till you reach required levels.

yeah, T-belt change will be easy for you